[FINALIST] - CraftsmanQuad's CraftsmanQuad Mark II [2019 buildoff entry]

Wonder how interchangeable they are with 670 horizontal parts?

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

No it was super flexy (only 2 mounting bolt locations) and had a lot of play in it. Just wore out.

I wouldn't give up on it so soon.

On my 110, the ross box is bolted to 1/8" steel plate, super dang beefy.



Mine had a ton of play too before I rebuilt it.  All you have to do to adjust the play is to put the steering wheel in the middle of the play, put a flat head screwdriver in that bolt head, loosen the nut, then tighten the bolt head until its tight, but not too tight.  Then tighten the nut down.  I had to lock tite mine in, it backed out after a bit.



Now the box has no play in it and the tractor steers beautifully after I filled it with a ton of grease.  It is just under power steering, I'd say.  It feels great.

The box has 2 bearings in it, a worm gear so it doesn't bump steer, and when you put the steering wheel somewhere it stays there. It doesn't turn when it hits a bump. I've been told these have been designed after old Jeep steering boxes, and they do look pretty similar.

Of course, it's your tractor, and you do whatever you'd like, but I wouldn't give up on the box just like that.

Some of them have different mounting holes though. I noticed the Ross box on my cousin's 1250 Cub flexes pretty bad when you turn the wheels with the tractor stopped. Too much for my liking. The setup on the early Deere's like that was much better.

Also sometimes those cam follower dowels get worn to where they won't ride in the worm gear properly, and they need to be re-turned to get the right edge or just simply replaced. I think sometimes if they're worn enough, adjusting them in tighter can damage the worm gear. Even though it reduces the steering play.

It's kind of a finicky thing adjusting steering boxes so that you don't damage anything long-term, even in automotive applications. It can be done with the right patience though.

I tried adjusting it but the output bushings are just so darn wore out

Ah, for the sector shaft? That's not so good. You could probably replace them but the shaft itself might even be worn a little bit.

They’re pretty ovaled out. I’m sure they’re just brass or something but it’s probably gotten into the shaft itself. And mine doesn’t have the holes on the side, just the two next to the input. So there just isn’t a good way to go about it.

AK said something about the cub flexing real bad, this one is from a cub

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

No it was super flexy (only 2 mounting bolt locations) and had a lot of play in it. Just wore out.

Steering and power were the biggest things holding me back at haspin I think. Debating just buying a brand new predator 708, it mounts the oil filter up higher so I wouldn’t have to screw with a remote mount or anything like that, plus being brand new should mean less carb troubles and such. Finding parts may be harder though so I’m not sure. What do you guys think?

Never assume Brand New means less troubles !

Anything on the MK2 yet CQ?

I have a steering box from a cub cadet. Pretty much looks like the john deere one in the pic Double W posted. Of course I'm kinda far away.

No, looked around for engines, found a brand new vanguard 18 for 500 bucks. Little salty but it would be my first brand new engine and hopefully I wouldn’t have to worry about it for awhile.

I need to get it out of the trailer and take some measurements for the new steering setup. Also got some 1 into 2 cable splitter blocks so I’ll be able to rig up my front brakes finally. But the dumb thing isn’t even unloaded from haspin yet hahaha

Playing around with a couple of the spare hoods I have laying around. Whatcha think? Both will need some minor modifications to fit the way I like, but overall I don’t think either one looks too bad!





I looked on amazon and BMIkarts and couldn’t find any steering racks in the size I need. The one you sent me mighty is out of stock. There is one I could probably make work but I have no idea just how “proven” it is. I’ll send a link here when I can find it again

This is the one mighty sent: Yerf dog

This is the one I found (appealing because it’s a kit): Full kit

It looks like the first one fits the best. And there is a couple build off entries using the second hood already, and also, since it's a '91, I think a 90s hood would fit the build better.

Just my two cents.

I think they both look decent. I guess it just depends on what look you like. I think the one has that older more vintage look. The other has the somewhat sleeker, new look.

Murraymountain wrote:

It looks like the first one fits the best. And there is a couple build off entries using the second hood already, and also, since it's a '91, I think a 90s hood would fit the build better.

Just my two cents.

Honestly I kinda like the newer style hood as well. And I won’t feel bad about trashing it when I roll it again hahaha

mr.modified wrote:

I think they both look decent. I guess it just depends on what look you like. I think the one has that older more vintage look. The other has the somewhat sleeker, new look.

I agree 100%. I like the vintage look and presence but I’m kinda leaning towards the sleek newer lines. I think they compliment the rest of the build better

New rack and pinion setup has arrived. Doesn’t feel super beefy, but I’ll reserve judgment until I’ve installed it. Bought the full kit for about an extra 30 bucks just because it comes with the splined u joints and everything.

Just the rack is 75 bucks I think. I will need to shorten the tie rods a lot, and I know I’ll need to lengthen the rotating shaft. Thinking of using some form of U bolt clamp like you would see on leaf springs or and exhaust to mount it. Think it will be strong enough?

Nice.

That the 17" wide one? Does that one have play like @redzz02's?  I seen those, but wasn't entirely sure how to mount it or seemed involved to mount it with U-bolts?  Also, the u-joint shaft is not floating extendable?  You should still be OK with the independent front end as your rack should be in a fixed location. In my case for Kal, I needed one that was extendable.

Here is the list of parts I used in Kal:

• https://www.bmikarts.com/Rack-Pinion-with-Rod-Ends-for-Yerf-Dog-Spiderbox-Go-Karts_p_1456.html they use to be $63 but I guess when they get back in stock they will be $72!
  
• https://www.bmikarts.com/Universal-U-Joint-_p_1465.html the extendable universal shaft $20
  
• https://www.bmikarts.com/Steering-Upright_p_1464.html then cut this out of the bracket for my steering upright.  Then I cleaned up the bracket and used it as my stinger on bumper. $9 
  

Gotcha. Yeah I was going to go with the one you used in kal, but I needed something to get it done by the buildoff. I guess if this one doesn’t work out I can always swap to the one you got. Hopefully they’re back in stock by then.

Also might be looking at an engine tonight. Listed for 650, but is a brand new never ran vanguard 18 horse. Hoping to talk him down to 500 even, but either way that’s an expensive engine in-box. He’s only asking about a third of the sticker price

I've been eyeballing this one too.

https://www.amazon.com/CALTRIC-RACK-PINION-POLARIS-2009-2014/dp/B01L6UG79A/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=Polaris+RZR+800+rack&pd_rd_i=B01L6UG79A&pd_rd_r=96c47feb-d571-4113-a271-2bfe6256aec7&pd_rd_w=7Gjwv&pd_rd_wg=p9w4a&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=VTBNN7G49VWBWGQA2CF0&qid=1568388794&replacementKeywords=rack&s=automotive&vehicle=2014-1200-23672------------&vehicleName=2014+Polaris+RZR+800

Wow that one looks heavy duty

That's looks exactly like what i've been looking for thanks for the link Mighty !

How much is a rod? Is the crank messed up?

I haven’t taken it apart to look. After haspin and seeing how much metal was in the oil I’m sure every surface in that engine is tore up

Yeah the crank journal is probably all scarred up. A brand new engine would be nice!

If you want to drive to Pittsburgh I’ll sell you a 14hp vanguard for cheap, and that looks like the same rack I got screwed on from China no mounting holes and there was so much slop in the input I just put it on the shelf and forgot about it