[FINALIST] - CraftsmanQuad's CraftsmanQuad Mark II [2019 buildoff entry]

Good call on using a lathe, that's the best way to do stuff like that.

I'm really looking forward to seeing the steering come together! Should be a neat setup for sure.

I’m hoping. Are you familiar with a bellcrank setup? I may find a pic online just to make it easier for people to understand. But it’ll have equal length tierods so the suspension will behave the same on either side

This is a dual bellcrank setup, which would be ideal but I don’t think I have the space. The red arrow is where the drag link would connect, and each blue arrow is where a tierod will connect to a spindle. This mounts on the chassis between the A arms

Yeah I ran a bellcrank and single link steering on the MTD for a little while, and I liked it, but I didn't design the pivot poimt strong enough so I scrapped that setup.

Having the tie rods the same length makes sense, if you could find an old Sears Suburban you could maybe rob some of the steering components out of it, as they used a single bell crank setup with two tie rods. The bell crank pivot it greaseable too, which helps slow the wear down substantially. My GT 6000 had the same setup when it was stock, but I don't think they all do.

Ya know I might just have to try and track one down. I’ll put my feelers out tomorrow and see what I come back with. Would save a lot of time as opposed to completely custom building one, and time is DEFINITELY not on my side right now

Lots of progress since my last update. Got the frame cut for the reverse mounted engine, then welded a big plate over the hole and drilled the new mounting holes, as well as the hole for my crankshaft. What made my suspension easy has now made my steering difficult, as the crankshaft and pulley will now be right where I’m trying to run the bellcrank and the tierods. Also got the rest of the old axle mount cut out with my new toy.

Tonight I went to my uncles and we cut out the hubs on the lathe and they’re nice and true now. I will be welding them in this weekend and hopefully getting the front suspension finalized. Money is sent out for the new final drive, and the differential has been locked. I’ll wait till the parts are cleaned up to post pics and explain what I did but it’s done. Once the final drive comes in the mail I’ll get a new reverse chain and put the whole thing back together so I can figure out my fenders and my belt system. And my shifter...

Wow looking good. Didn't know flipping the motor wood put your crank so much further forward! Your gonna need a long ass belt. That steering debacle sounds tough but I'm sure there is a solution. What if you put the bell crank in front and just had a really long drag link? This is a stupid question but I've never owned/used a osilating tool. They cut metal?

looking good, welds are a big improvement from the Mark I

Yes, the oscillating tools can fit metal with the right blade. The issue is that the pulley is right where my tierods will poke through the frame, therefore run across the frame. My tierods may have some funky bends in them.

Yes my welds have gotten a little better haha. I’ve started figuring this thing out. Any updates on the AMF? I’m looking forward to seeing it again

the Frame looks awesome now!

Ugh I just can’t get these hubs centered. One wheel still wobbles and the other moves like it’s an oval. And I can’t just buy 8 inch 3 lug wheels because they don’t make them and haspin is less than 3 weeks out and it’s officially panic mode

Still haven’t received the final drive, no belt system, no wiring yet. Dunno where the fenders will mount, no shifter

I have a sturdy frame with front suspension with an engine resting on it that I’ve never heard run.

Sounds like it's crunch time for you. You can run the old shifter for Haspin if it really comes down to it. The rims you need do exist. FearlessFronts rear rims for the murray are 3 lug 8in split rims off the front of a atv. Ive also seen old Snappers with 3 lug 8in rims but I think there to wide and probably a larger lug pattern. Good luck man!

I measured 8 millimeters from hole to hole. The diameter is 9 inches from the outer lip to outer lip, but from the base where the bead will actually sit is 8 inches, andthe tire says 8 inches. I found one online that says 8 inches but it said “outer lip to outer lip is 8” which I think would make it a 7” wheel from bead seat to bead seat right?

Ya thats why people usually just go off of what its called. The actual measurement is the inside of the tire bead. I just did some quick research and because the lug pattern is most often found on go karts and small quads most of the rims I found are 7in. They use a common go kart tire that are 16×8-7. I'll keep looking. Maybe you could get a aluminum spacer/adapter.

I got a pair last night. 85 bucks but they were the only ones I found

At this point it’s just a waiting game. Parts will hopefully be here before next weekend and I’ll be able to really bust azz on it to get the belts steering and suspension done. A buddy will be helping me with wiring and I’m sure we can get that done in a few hours. I don’t think I’m gonna have lights again this year, but I can always add those later

If you want headlights all you really need is a toggle switch, the lights, a battery, and a buncha ends and wire and your all set. You can have that done in a few hours.That's how both of our widebodys and the Lowes is wired.

I don’t have the lights themselves though and right now I can’t afford them. Not with how my impala has been acting. Spent 5 hours on it yesterday, drove it, and it left us stranded a half hour from home. Now it needs a starter

Ahh okay. Now I understand.

Update, got the #40 chain for the beefy reverse chain setup, and it just barely is too short. Add a link and it’s wayyyyyyy too long. Might have to put the old chain back in or just run at haspin without reverse. I really don’t want to blow my transaxle with the stock chain but I feel like I’m going to need reverse if I drive anything like I did last year

Also got the roms final drive in the mail today and got it installed. Finished completely cleaning out the case and the gear assemblies. Once I figure out what I’m going to do with this reverse chain I’m going to get it all put back together

Progress! Got the fenders chopped, new wheels came in the mail today. Literally the only set I could find. 86 bucks after shipping and all that. Ouch. Ah well, I needed them and they fit perfectly. Slightly narrower than the old ones I tried to make work but not by much. The front is the final track width. Wheels bolted on and everything. Rear is still a guess, need to get a #40 master link so I can get the transaxle back together and get the rear end finalized so I can start on belts. After belts is steering. Then wiring.

Pics!




I think I’m just going to weld the rear hubs to the axle shaft since I can’t afford to have them broached and this whole rear axle assembly is temporary. Eventually it’ll get a chrome straight axle instead of the two shafts but this will do for now. Since I’m welding them on and don’t have to worry about the e clip though, I might be able to set the rear wheels out just a hair wider for more stability and a more square stance

Looks like it should have a real tough stance when it's all done!!

I’m thinking so. Forgot to mention I rigged up a temporary oil filter bypass by pressing in brass fittings into the spare filter bracket I had. Soldered everything up as best I could. Should be able to take a piece of heatproof fuel line and just U the one into the other. Might drop my oil pressure by a touch but I’ll have continuous flow. Sometime after haspin I’ll order a “real” oil filter relocation kit, might add a small oil cooler inline with it too just because I’ll be running it hard most of the time.

As time and money allow I’m hoping to get some hopped up parts for it like a cam, billet rods and flywheel, and maybe port and deck the heads. It’d be fun to push 30 out of it. Dunno if I can get it that high but man what a hotrod that would be haha

BEAUTIFUL!!!

Stretch said you might need a half link of that #40 chain to link it up...

Ended up getting the master link to work, much easier to take apart too haha.

I paid attention to the rotation of the chain and put the clip on so if anything were to rub against it, it would push it on rather than off if that makes sense. Still has clearance though so that’s all good. Transaxle is assembled, just waiting for the rtv to dry some so I can put it in. Added a brass nipple to that threaded hole with that little yellow plug by the shifter. Direct fit.

Minor setback with my tow rig (the ranger). Fuel pump went out this morning so I’m going to have to get that sorted, CQ needs finished, AND I still have to practice because my bum arse made state lol. This week is going to be utter chaos