Murraymountain's Mountain Murray

so go ahead and post it. right.

Yep!

Alrighty! New thread

......Man, pretty dirty in here. Think I just saw rat go by (talking about the thread, lol.), anyway, the MM has been performing... Uuhh, um, kind of, decent. Getting a few reoccurring gremlins like randomly throwing the belt (happened again tonight. Luckily not in the creek while I had my good (not waterproof) boots on.), and electrical connectors coming undone. Gonna have to buy a crimper. Anyway, I'm not satisfied with the double pulley clutch, so when I take the body off to reinforce the frame, I'm gonna go back to a single pulley. No matter what I do it seems the belt wants to come off, and if it comes off on a single pulley, well, it's a whole lot easier to put it back on. Anyway, I'm gonna do a list of what I like and don't like...

I do like:
-The mud flaps... Did it on my first build and it worked flawless. GREAT idea Doc.
-The rack... Has already come in handy many times. Spent a whole day with a 7 year old on the back just driving around and refilling it with gas. I love it.
-The gas pedal... This is my first build with a gas pedal and I gotta say, it sure makes shifting a whole lot easier.
-The locker... This is also my first locker. Love how it almost never gets stuck. Can't wait for real tires!
-The lights... Being able to see 360 degrees is always a must for me, so.

I don't like:
-The hand brake... It's right in the way of my knee. I haven't accidentally kicked it on yet, but it's just annoying. Also, it's hard to press the clutch, hold the steering wheel, shifter, and brake at the same time...
-The tires... The tires suck. Don't get me wrong, they make sliding as easy as eating Cheetos (because I'm eating them right now), but they are literally bald. NO traction whatsoever.
-The new clutch... The new clutch worked out better on the red Murray. It's just not what this machine needs.

Now, since the time the BO thread was locked, I've managed to roll it on a gravel road while doing donuts... Yeah, I pulled a Richie. No damage though. Just a rough spot on the steering wheel and front corner of the hood.

As for the engine and tranny, well, I gave up on those. Just gonna run 'em til they blow. The trans leaks like crazy, I stripped 2 bolts in the case (which are right beside each other not allowing the cases to seal.), the input needle bearings are gone now, (should've greased it before I put it in.), I just don't care. I have another set if cases. The engine is very shot. It makes this machine the ultimate worst point A to B and work vehicle. On about 3rd startup of the day it won't start. It just sits there as if it needed gas, so I choke it, and it floods. Makes no sense to me. Also, with the broken compression release, the pull start is useless. It's killing the solenoid and starter too. Constantly having to recharge the battery. Hope I can make everything last till Haspin. The front end is already starting to die... I'm thinking it's wheel bushings.

Anyway, it still works okay, just gotta work out some bugs.

Alright guys, been a while. The MM's still kicking around...





So, everything is about the same. I blew out the front tire during my final video for the BO, and now I blew the rear one, so new tires are in the near future. Been messing with it here and there. I did put new tow hooks on it recently... Put one of the old ones in the back and put U-hooks in the front. Oh, and I put a 6" pulley on the front now instead of the deck drive pulley. It's fast enough to do 2nd gear donuts now! I've tightened some bolts, checked the frame for cracks (I didn't find any), greased the input shaft since the needle bearings are actually fine, adjusted the valves to no clearance at all... It helped the compression a bit, and some other things here and there...




The skid pla er, um... I mean, oil pan...



Heh, bad isn't it.

And just for fun...



I know, yes it's a WD knock off.

Also, I got the 'new' engine...



I did completely disassemble it, no pics though. BUT, I did get pics of this $40 crap...




The rings were shot, the combustion chamber was full of clay, the carb hole is full of rust/clay, the crankcase was full of water/coffee sludge oil, the oil filter had drinkable water only, no oil in it. It's a mess. At least I was gonna port and polish it anyway. I might have to get a 10 over piston or something because it definitely needs to be honed.

Anyway, the MM2.0 is not gonna be built the way I've been saying... The Mountain Murray is taking it's place. It's still being built, but not the way this one will. Anyways, I have some awesome mods planned for this thing...

Reducing the valve clearances could actually hurt compression once the engine gets up to temp, they might not be seating all the way. Also pretty hard on the push rods.

You mean it has less compression? Sounds like it should. That's what I was going for anyway. Although, before I adjusted them, once it warmed up, when restarting it, the compression was correct. But when it was cold, the battery just didn't have enough power to spin it over... I still can't even pull start it.

All's good though... The engine's not gonna make it through the year anyway.

If the valve clearances are too tight it will spin over very hard, that's probably why it feels that way.

Really..? Seems to me that if you slightly over tighten them, the exhaust valve would stay open a little bit longer, which would reduce compression... At least that's how I understood what I heard from a mechanic. Makes sense to me. When I had them at 0.004 and 0.005, the compression was way too much, which led me to believe the compression release was broken. I still think it is. We'll see once I pull the sump I guess.

It will lessen the compression yes, but if you remove all clearance you are possibly compressing the valve springs too far which could make it stiff. Very likely to bend the pushrods as well.

Are you spinning the engine to TDC on the compression stroke when you set the valves? That is neccessary before making any adjustments, and actually I believe it's a small turn past TDC on those to make the compression release work correctly.

Yeah, it's a little past TDC. I basically removed 95% of clearance. Just enough so they don't tap.

Oh boy, I have had a very, "eventful", day today...........




I DROWNED THE MOUNTAIN MURRAY!.......................................

Yup, I killed it. I explained how it happened in the video. Man, I thought it was gonna stop before it went to far, but nope. Once I felt the water cover my butt and it was still going under fast, I knew it was time to hit the kill switch and abandon ship. So yeah, it wasn't running when the carb went in, but the combustion chamber was still filled all the way.



So, yeah, the Mountain Murray went fishing today.



More to come.

Looks like FAIL material there.  Long walk back?  Hope ya didn't get too cold.
--FAIL TOPIC--

Hmm, I have some stuff I've been meaning to post in there. I better get on that!

MightyRaze wrote:

Looks like FAIL material there.  Long walk back?  Hope ya didn't get too cold.
--FAIL TOPIC--

My brother was there when it happened, and we're on 13 acres, so no matter which way you go, it's not 'that' long. I didn't get cold because it was like 69 degrees, but my feet almost went numb when I went back through so I could put the tow strap on.

Anyway, something I kept quiet about when it happened...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/b9jriLGCRbTp45af8

So yeah, somehow, it was running again by the end of the day. BUT, after taking 'er for a spin today, it's SERIOUSLY hurting. As I said, it's down on power, but now, I'm sure it's not the gas pedal. The engine wants to be done with life. Check this out...

The oil is light brown now, and the breather tube is just dumping oil down the carb. What do you think? I need a catch can, head gasket, or piston rings? I think it's time for a catch can or something.

Hopefully you changed the oil? Then maybe again after a few minutes running?

I checked it after draining everything. It was on the full mark and still looked like oil so I left it. Should've checked it after running it again. So no, I never changed it.

always change your fluids after going under.... the brown is water...crank case is probably overfull with poo.... same on the transaxle...

mrshaft696 wrote:

crank case is probably overfull with poo

Nope. I checked the oil level. It was on the full mark. My theory though, is that it was probably on the add mark like always and when the water got in it, it went to the full mark. Plus whatever was in the oil chamber. So it started puking oil into the the carb causing it to smoke and sometimes die. That's at least what I came up with...

I'll prob'ly just leave the trans as is. Won't be long til I rebuild it anyway.

So, I drained the oil today... 1 1/2 quarts.



Then I flushed it and ran it for about 10 min on the oil that came out of the 16.5 HP Kohler. It went in black, and came out brown (on the shop floor too... had to break out the cat litter). Then I put in a quart of 10W30 and a quarter quart of 20W50... Should be good now. It's got 85% of it's power back, and it's not smoking, so I think we're good. Just need to clean out the breather tube and let the air filter dry.

Oh this is gonna be awesome...

Okay, the water damage is all repaired! Ran like it never happened! Anyway, it did awesome in the snow yesterday once I got it out of the fields. It really needs better tires.

The MM's first glimpse of snow.....







Here's some videos...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3n3hrBh3viB49MuFA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8QJBoTqqRwBPoUiWA

It was pretty fun. Too bad I had to wear all that crap on my face because of this stupid cold. BUT, it wasn't all good news. After playing around with it for about 3 and a half hours, it started acting weird in 2nd gear... When I'd shift to 2nd, it started making these clunking noises. Then a little later, it started acting like it was missing teeth on the gears... And then, 2nd gear just stopped all together. But I hadn't had enough drifting yet, so what's the big deal with shifting from 1st to 3rd? Well, grinding gears after about 10 1st to 3rd shifts. You'll hear it grind when I tried to shift it in this video. So, since at that point I couldn't get it to shift into 3rd, I couldn't get 4th or 5th. So then I was stuck with 1st and reverse. Now I go to park it in the nearest shed, and as I'm crawling along I start feeling it miss teeth in 1st... At least I made it to the shed. So, as of now, the only functioning gear is reverse. . Great. I blew the trans. Can't seem to catch a break with this thing. So, I think what I'm gonna do now, is drain the gas, and leave it where it is until I'm ready to completely focus on this project. It's about time my original Murray gets going again anyway. Well, I gotta say, even though I killed the tranny, it was fun doin' it!

Well, I pulled the trans today with intentions of stealing the Doc Locker and the 4" pulley, but it turns out there was nothing wrong with the trans. ALL of the bolts came loose for some reason. Shift keys are okay apparently, the gears look good, I must've been the loose bolts. So, the new plan, is to build this transmission to the standards it should've been built to when the BO ended, put it back under the MM, build another MST for the red Murray, and when the 820's built, swap it into the MM and have this MST as a spare. One thing's for sure though, this leak will be fixed.... The trans was bright orange when it went in...



See, oil pan.


The gear oil didn't have as much water as I thought...


But anyway, the trans will be going back in sometime soon I hope.

Trying to drill out 2 bolt holes for 5/16 threads. I should've drilled it instead of Papa. That JB Weld better work.

Screw JB Weld...



https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZxrJcU6ZEmajyvvY9


No disrespect to Papa, but the lesson to be learned here: ALWAYS DRILL YOUR OWN HOLES PEOPLE!

@MightyRaze, is this the type JB Weld you used for your Doc Locker?

Doesn't matter red or yellow.  I just used it to fill in the keyway for the oil seals on the MST.  Sanded to match the curve of the axle.  Doc use RTV, but mine kept leaking.  I did the same on my 820, but under the bearings.  820 only seams to leak when overfilled or sitting on it's side for a period of time.

Okay, thanks! It's done now. Gonna try and assemble everything Tuesday.