1970 John Deere 110

I dont think the Predator will blow up when U rip it to 9k only for short periods of time!

The lettering would be funny IMO

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

I dont think the Predator will blow up when U rip it to 9k only for short periods of time!

The lettering would be funny IMO

Well, I do and I don't plan to do so.

Yeah, thats the whole idea, LOL.

Note to self: front belt size is 1/2"x39". Rear is 5/8"x61".

I took her out to collect firewood in the rain, she took it great.  Need to make a thread on that trailer too.

Did some work on her today. Lifted the fenders a bit, which made shifting easier. Then I did the classic 2300 trick of putting the tires on the wrong side to get a different offset.



Looks mean from the side, from the back, she looks kinda riced out.



Not sure if I'm keeping it or not. I'm split right down the middle. I do like how the fronts are no longer sticking out father than the rears.

I think it has a great stance. Increased fender clearance is good to have off road.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I think it has a great stance.  Increased fender clearance is good to have off road.

Thanks!

The back is starting to grow on me, but every time I see it I still think this.

So I was reading the instruction manual for the 110s and 112s, and I found out that mine and practically everyone else's are missing a whole body panel!



You have to take it off to service the PTO and the belts, so I guess it's just like the Sears Suburban hood corner, it's just one more step so people just left it off.  I kinda want to have it though.  I'm pretty sure it would fit even with the engine swap.  Would be $32.  Not sure if I should get it or not.  What do ya'll think?

Oh, and I came up with a new exhaust.  You can kinda see it in this picture.  It has a more blub blub blub sound than it did before. I'll try to get some video of the way it sounds later.

IMO its wasted money to get that dumb panel!
Looks like a damn Brick and has no use, since nothing will get in contact with the belts without the guard or with the guard in place!

At least its your decision but I wouldnt waste 30$ for such crap! Get a Stainless Stack for that money instead!!

That's a 50/50 thing.  Is it worth it?  Some would say, yes.  I want a complete tractor!  Also, it does offer some minor belt protection.  You do have a lot of trees there.

My Uncles ol' 110 has the PTO guard on it still:



Looks quite nice in my opinion, no idea why anyone would think otherwise. Adds to the classic garden tractor styling!

Not really neccessary for you, not like this is a full on restoration or something. But what about trying to make your own? That might be pretty cool!

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

IMO its wasted money to get that dumb panel!
Looks like a **** Brick and has no use, since nothing will get in contact with the belts without the guard or with the guard in place!

At least its your decision but I wouldnt waste 30$ for such crap! Get a Stainless Stack for that money instead!!

Uh...this thing is not getting a dumb chrome stack. I hate chrome, and that is definitely not the style I'm going for here.

MightyRaze wrote:

That's a 50/50 thing.  Is it worth it?  Some would say, yes.  I want a complete tractor!  Also, it does offer some minor belt protection.  You do have a lot of trees there.

Yeah, I think it's mostly wanting a complete tractor.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

My Uncles ol' 110 has the PTO guard on it still:



Looks quite nice in my opinion, no idea why anyone would think otherwise. Adds to the classic garden tractor styling!

Not really neccessary for you, not like this is a full on restoration or something. But what about trying to make your own? That might be pretty cool!

I've thought of that. I still might, IDK.

There are several things to consider there.  Haven't made up my mind yet.

I've done quite a bit of work to it lately.

First, I removed all the left-over deck components.



I got that picture out of the instruction manual.

The rear idler pulley had a bad bearing, and the edges were kinda messed up.  On top of that, I didn't quite like the set up of the giant idler pulley to start with.  It's literally 6.5" across, and I couldn't find a replacement.



So, I tried putting in a standard Craftsman 3.5" pulley.





Then, the clutch wouldn't disengage, and the belt rubbed on itself.  So, I put in a second one in front.



The clutch still wouldn't disengage.  Then I figured out that it was on account of the front belt being too small, so I put a larger front belt on.  I think it's a 42, instead of a 40.  That solved all the issues, and the rear idlers work great now!

The next thing I needed was a parking brake.  There were remnants of the old one still on the tractor, but the linkage had rusted through before I got it.

The end result is better shown in a video.



That video also shows the new exhaust set up I have.  The audio doesn't show what it actually sounds like, but oh well.

Then I reran some springs, I reran the primary clutch spring.  The vari drive shifts through gears a lot faster now.  Then I removed a spacer that was in the tensioner spring, and drilled a hole higher in the lever for more leverage, and drilled a hole a couple inches farther from where it was before.  It helped a lot, and the belt should have much better traction in the rear now.



Then, while the fenders were off, I washed all the mud off of the tranny.





Then, since I was feeling so good about how everything was going with this rig, I ordered replacement bearings for the front end, and a starter generator.  I've decided to go with that instead of the kit for the 212.  Should be here Thursday.  Seller's picture:



It came off a canabalized Allis Chalmers B-10.  Oh well, at least it's going on an old GT, not some riced out golf cart or something.  I've got a couple ideas how to mount it, we'll see.

Nice! The Exhaust sounds like a generator.....

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Nice! The Exhaust sounds like a generator.....

No it doesn't, like I said, exhaust tones don't pick up well on video.

So, yesterday I put a dual kill switch setup.  I have the tether with a momentary push button switch that kills it, and now a toggle.  I didn't like the momentary button, it was just kinda annoying.  So I did this instead.  Yes,I did over-complicate the wiring, but oh well.


And then the starter generator came.

The postmaster said that it tore through the package, and when I got it home, a mounting tab was busted clean off it.

It was supposed to be insured up to $100, but I'm not sure if thats for if it got lost or broken in transit.  The tab was on in the seller's pictures.
I'm going to file a claim tomorrow.  It still has 2 mounting tabs, and if it wasn't for the fact that it must weigh 20 pounds and it's going to be driven by the engine, I'd just say it'll be fine.  We'll see what happens.   Maybe the seller will have to pay for it because it wasn't properly packaged.

dang that!
Several of my Transaxles and Engines I bought were poorly packed so they got damaged like My20HP Vanguards Shroud, the muffler on a 3,5HP MAX, Murray Emblems in a Transaxle package, and more stuff I cant remember anymore, but I have to deal with that since private sales R a risk here & nobody is paying for damaged stuff...

Well, it says that if it's not in the described shape when I received it, Ebay will refund me.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Well, it says that if it's not in the described shape when I received it, Ebay will refund me.

Sounds good!

I did jump start it, and it does work (at least the starter part of it.)

Here's a basic mockup, I'd have to reverse directions for this to work, which I understand is fairly easy. I may be able to do it with the busted mount, I dunno.

I really like how it mostly fills in the giant hole in the middle of the tractor, that always bugged me, LOL.

So will the lead from the solenoid need to be hooked to the Field terminal in order to reverse the direction or something? Not sure this is gonna be as easy as it sounds if you want to retain the charging....

Any details on how the reverse is done? I'm intrigued now, haha.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

So will the lead from the solenoid need to be hooked to the Field terminal in order to reverse the direction or something?  Not sure this is gonna be as easy as it sounds if you want to retain the charging....

Any details on how the reverse is done? I'm intrigued now, haha.

Swap the wires going to the 2 terminals I believe.

Hmm.. So swap the lead from the solenoid and the two from the regulator with each other on the starter/generator?

2 terminals on the starter generator.  One to solenoid two to ground.  Just flip them, one to ground, two to solenoid.

The bigger issue is to be sure to regulate the charge coming out.

Yeah that's what I was saying, haha. Interesting, I wouldn't have thought it'd be that simple.