[Complete] Redzz02's Haspin Build [2018 Build-Off Entry]

Quite understandable, I've had a broken back and a compressed vertebrae but I still can't help myself every now and then, lol

The audio in that video is great.  Those looks like really tough hills.  This is why I'm voting for true dual pipes with mufflers to try to keep some of that great BARK.

Not Much to Update i really haven't messed with her much since haspin, just the hill climb video and new front shoes for her, there is still a decent amount of modifications id like to do to it before the end of the competition but for now i do not have much of an update

Is that a custom fake beadlock welded onto a mower rim?  That's a nice little touch!  What did you decide for front shoes?

@Crazy_Carl not a fake bead lock, just a rock ring like what's on the rear but custom ones I made myself, 18x6.50x8 i was very disappointed at the small size, they are just about the same height as a 16x7.50-8 turf savers

What exactly is the purpose of the rock ring? Do they just make it harder for the rims to get caught up on rocks from the side, or are they purely cosmetic?

@CraftsmanQuad19 the purpose of a rock ring is to reinforce the bead, so usually if you're running lower psi, your tires flex more so if you come up and hit a rock or another obstacle really hard while at low psi there is more possibility of bending or damaging the bead, the ring reinforces the bead and virtually no damage happens even with the hardest of hits. This more apples to full size rigs and quads that have more weight and higher speeds. I wanted them to compliment the rear rims and they will strengthen the wheels

Looks good on there.
Im guessing they were plasma cutted out.  If so did you use a circle cutter jig or just use the rim as a template?

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

What exactly is the purpose of the rock ring? Do they just make it harder for the rims to get caught up on rocks from the side, or are they purely cosmetic?

I have them on my jeep because the rim edges were always getting bent and dinged up on rocks, you would have to pull the tire torch hammer and repair. It also protects the valve stem from getting torn off. Plus it looks cool. I am not sure a tractor has the weight to cause too many problems but I would run them if I had a way to cut or buy them.

redzz02 wrote:

@CraftsmanQuad19 the purpose of a rock ring is to reinforce the bead, so usually if you're running lower psi, your tires flex more so if you come up and hit a rock or another obstacle really hard while at low psi there is more possibility of bending or damaging the bead, the ring reinforces the bead and virtually no damage happens even with the hardest of hits. This more apples to full size rigs and quads that have more weight and higher speeds. I wanted them to compliment the rear rims and they will strengthen the wheels

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks

@mrshaft696 being a steel wheel it probably does not have the weight to bend one, but the aluminum rear wheels it definitely does, I have been thinking about producing rock rings, skid plates and a few other mower mods for sale, if I ever get around to it I'll let you know

I might take a set of those rock rings. Would they be custom like waterjet cut? Like a standard size and the option to write our username or the tractor name in it like you did on the front of yours?

@CraftsmanQuad19 no it would be all hand plasma cut and drilled like mine were, I wish I had access to a plasma, laser, water jet table. It would be one standard size but I haven't really planned out any details, it would probably be one design and cost extra to do a custom name or something, I'd probably do them for 8,10,12 inch steel wheels

Here is a small update of the current status of the haspin mower

Nice update redzz02. Can wait to see what you do with the wrap. Nice work with the rock rings as well.

@MightyRaze thanks sir, my plan might not work out too well with the wrap I found out tonight I'm not the best at it..... we'll see!

heres some stuff i dug into tonight

my steering support bearings were cheapies and had a slight slop to them, so i got some good sealed bearings and replaced all 4 eliminating all "slop"







also decided to dress up my headlights with some "guards"



i also had some aluminum tread that i decided to cut out a patch and bolt to my clutch pedal for some extra grip





last but not least i threw some color on the front wheels





now i want to redo my brake pedal location, being such a small height from my foot boards to my seat it is difficult to get leverage to lock up the brakes comfortably. now my issue is i can not figure out a good pedal relocation because of my throttle pedal. i originally went with a foot throttle because i was unsure of the direct steering i did not want to put a hand throttle onto it, but since i now know the direct steering works good should i just go with a hand throttle and use my existing throttle pedal as the new brake pedal?

hand throttle?

try and figure out a pedal location?

or leave it just how it is since it works fine the way it is?

whats your opinion?

can you just tweak your pivots to get more leverage on your existing brake pedal? your using some kind of bell crank already arent you?

I would make a 3rd pedal, so you gonna keep your clutch and gas pedal, just add next to the gas pedal or clutch pedal (whatever side you like the most) your new brake pedal. Or make a Hand lever for the Brakes, like I did. I wouldn't miss my foot throttle. I probably would put the brake pedal next to the gas pedal.

@Creepycrawler I probably could but I still don't think their is enough leverage with how short the height distance is between my seat and foot pan, my knees are bent pretty good, I feel like if I change the pivot points anymore the pedal is going to have to come up even higher in the air or else it's gonna make it even more difficult to push the pedal down,

@SebastianAlbrecht you can not put the brake pedal next to the clutch pedal, I mean you can but it would be difficult to clutch and brake at the same time using the same foot and I'm not a fan of combining the clutch pedal and brake pedal into one, the issue that I'm having is my foot boards aren't that wide,

I'd love to just throw a pedal next to the existing throttle but then it would be hanging off the foot board and I'm not about that life, also I've tried putting the pedal under the other but no mater what way I orient them you'll end up pressing both pedals at once on accident, my last issue is I was going to try and just move the brake pedal more forward, but then that would mean I would have to lift my foot up over the brake pedal, or out and around it to use it, I didn't look much into it today but tomorrow I'll rack my brain again

Only reason I'd like the hand throttle is if you have to get off and push or bail on a hill real quick and push it the rest of the way up you can control the throttle while steering and pushing it all at the same time

Here's a reference of how it is currently set up, the dynamark foot boards are pretty skinny not much wider than a boot, also not very long either, hence the reason I'm having a tough time coming up with something

redzz02 wrote:

@SebastianAlbrecht you can not put the brake pedal next to the clutch pedal, I mean you can but it would be difficult to clutch and brake at the same time using the same foot and I'm not a fan of combining the clutch pedal and brake pedal into one, the issue that I'm having is my foot boards aren't that wide,

I'd love to just throw a pedal next to the existing throttle but then it would be hanging off the foot board and I'm not about that life, also I've tried putting the pedal under the other but no mater what way I orient them you'll end up pressing both pedals at once on accident, my last issue is I was going to try and just move the brake pedal more forward, but then that would mean I would have to lift my foot up over the brake pedal, or out and around it  to use it, I didn't look much into it today but tomorrow I'll rack my brain again

Only reason I'd like the hand throttle is if you have to get off and push or bail on a hill real quick and push it the rest of the way up you can control the throttle while steering and pushing it all at the same time

Sounds really difficult to find a good spot. Maybe just make a lever you bolt on next to the tunnel, so you can brake with it. I did that on my MTD, and it works, but I dont really use the brakes when I drive it, more when I have to stop downhill trying to cross a road or so.





I used the old deck lifting lever off a junky RER, and filed the holes to a slot, so you have your standard brake leverage when you want to brake, and I left the 1st and last hole, so I can lock the brakes up, so nobody can brake by accident, or as a parking brake. I would a dd a spring in your setup, so the lever releases braking from itself and you dont need to push the lever back again. And under the footboards is a piece of flat stock, that connects with a linkage to the brakes.

redzz02 wrote:

Here's a reference of how it is currently set up, the dynamark foot boards are pretty skinny not much wider than a boot, also not very long either, hence the reason I'm having a tough time coming up with something

On my Murray and my Dynamark they're not wider

how close does the brake pedal go to the floor when you press it now?

https://i.servimg.com/u/f64/19/89/68/05/fry10.jpg

Can you just drill a hole right below this one? seems it wouldnt take long to try it

After talking with you at Tecumseh Trails I think the hand trottle is your best bet.  You can use it when walking the tractor.  I think a hand brake is a solid 2nd option too.

the haspin build is complete! it technically met all the requirements 6 months ago, but it is now finished to my liking.

2017 was my first year to attend the mowrons haspin acres get together with my mud dynamark, it was built for the type of terrain i have around my camp, flat with deep mud holes. you wont find a hill over 5 feet tall in any of the woods we have access to, ive never done hill climbs on a mower and frankly was terrified the first time i went to haspin i was very uncomfortable with my mud mower seat height sitting almost 3 feet off the ground going up most of the hills we came across, having to get off and walk my mower up some of them. but then you see the mowrons rigs and then you start to understand exactly why they are built the way they are. i have built racing mowers that are good at going fast, ive built mud mowers that do really good in the mud, i have even built lifted mowers that could easily go through a 3 foot deep water hole, but i have never built a well purposed trail rig and thats exactly what the mowrons mowers are, very well thought out purpose built trail rigs and thats where the inspiration for the haspin build came from so here it is

here is my final video


and here is my overview/explanation video of how it was built
















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it started out as a normal dynamark riding mower and quickly took a drastic turn for the better
with a fully custom tube chassis, briggs and stratton vanguard v twin, pearless 820 live axle, 3 link front suspension, and much more!

chassis:
- dynamark mower with 1x2 stainless steel tubing chassis made to match the original frame dimensions, 3/4 inh steel tubing steering support and upper engine cage support. the sheet metal body tunnel was shortend 4 inches to further lower the center of gravity on the machine

motor:
-16hp briggs and stratton vanguard v twin with a set of ryker racing dual valve spring 18hp heads, port and polished ryker racing twin barrel intake, stock 2 barrel carb, steel push rod mod, and running it ungoverned with my thumb throttle i built. 2 into one side exit hood exhaust

suspension/steering:
-3 link set up with a drag link/panhard bar. links are 3/4inch square tubing with 7/16ths heimjoint ends. chinese remote reservoir atv shocks. along with a direct steering set up running on fully sealed highspeed bearings and also 7/16ths heim joint and 1/2inch tierods

transaxle:
-im running a peerless 820 that has a 1 inch deluxe flexproof 40 inch axle (the diff carrier was drilled to 1inch and keyed to fit the axle) along with being oil filled and topped off with a set of roms pearless gearset upgrade1  giving it a final drive of 5.61:1.   5 inch motor pulley and 6 inch trans axle pulley

brakes:
-atv hydraulic brakes along with an 8 inch on axle rotor

tires/wheels:
- rear tires are 18x9.50-8 Carlisle v treads on itp aluminum dual rock ring 8x8 honda wheels. the fronts are some carlisle x 18x6.50-8 on my custom rock ringed steel 8 inch riding mower wheels with 3/4 highspeed wheel bearings

paint/vinyl:
-rustoleum rubbed bronze metalic, gloss block, carbon fiber chameleon, matte purple metalic

misc.:
-nilight 4 inch round led lights, custom built aluminum fuel cell, car alarm horn, atv battery,  

their has been a lot and a lot of work put into this build and it has performed well over my expectations and many others as well. short from frying a belt and most recently rolling this machine down a hill this past friday, i have had absolutely no issues with this build, i feel very comfortable on hill climbs the direct steering has proven to be a very good design, the front suspension soaks up the bumps and is very stable at highspeeds, the combo between the vtwin and pearless 820 is also holding up and performing just as it should

all in all i hope you guys enjoy this build as much as i have, i wish all of the other competitors the best of luck!, and i really hope i have won over your votes and i hope that we can take another 1st place home this year, thank you all for the support!