Murray CCT [pre-build]

Engine all cleaned up and just need the bottom oil seal and then it is ready!





I need to grab that front piece for the heat shield off the parts engine too.

Dang mighty! I should really paint my engine something cool, lol. Maybe a really dark blue. I think that'd be a cool contrast to the rest of the red tractor.

The pix look lighter than it really is. But I am digging the Tan/Beige.

I wanna see some brown accents like the intake, air cleaner housing, and flywheel screen

I'm digging the black/tan.

Oil seal installed, wait and see if it leaks.

4 hrs later no drips. By now the old seal would have had a small puddle. Now I am keeping an eye out for a tornado storm headed out way.

Little over a week and the oil seal is good. I did notice a small leak from the sump gasket. the access side 3 bolts were not to spec on tightness. Tightened and trying again. Also noticed the governor is a bit damp but not dripping.

Well, she's in the garage now.  Gonna pull the parts engine, then put it on it's side so I can access the shifter cup.  See if I can unsieze that.  Should it (transaxle) be shot, a Plan B will be made.

EDIT: forgot picture.

Engine removed and will check up on the transmission this weekend sometime.



This thing weighs a ton!

Let my doodling begin!

Could not see down the shifter hole, going to have to drop the transaxle.  Shifter cup was not frozen or rusted. Also, it did not contain any water. Nice clean gear oil inside.

Well, here is the GOOD, BAD, and the UGLY of this 2348 transaxle.

GOOD:

Transaxle is out.



1 inch shaft on the 6 inch brake disk.



1 inch axle.



Not sure what happened to my picture of the input shaft, but it is 3/4 and does not appear tapered.  7 inch input pulley may or may not be saved.  Depends how easilly it comes off.

BAD:

Everything is pretty rusty.  But not too bad on the outside.  I think things will come off with some work.

Peerless 2348





Now the

UGLY!

Found out why it is stuck in 2nd gear.  Looks pretty bad inside.  I'll split the case and see if I can clean and buff it off where it will shift.  If I cannot, then I will need to figure out Plan B.  Diff appears to spin well and it does work in 2nd gear if you spin the input.

Yeah those shifter shafts look pretty rusted, I bet she can still be saved though!

That is my hope. That thing is about the weight of 3 MSTs together.

Cast iron goodness

I bet you can get er freed up mighty, these things are pretty hard to kill.

Outside is all cleaned up.  Hubs, pulley and brake disk removed.  Ready to crack open and clean up the inside.  Nothing was really rust welded on the outside. This thing is a beast!  Bearings at the end of the axles are still good!  They don't even have that rough gravel sound.  Still spin like new.

I see this has a straight input shaft, sweet! If you're looking to lock the diff, maybe you should do that while you're in there. These use the same diff as the 820, so maybe you can do a doc locker? Or maybe just a fozzy, being as I dont think you have a drill press.

Be sure to check all the gear teeth as well. Kind of a pain but sitting in water and cause some pretty bad pitting...

Looks like a really heavy case though. 2300 on steroids?

It does have a straight input shaft!  I have a 3.5 inch pulley I think I can use on it. 

I will definitely look into possibly locking it when I am in there!

Also, looking what I can further down, the gears what I can see look great.  I'm not certain the reason for the rust because the gear oil in it didn't have any traces in it.?!  Only thing I can figure is some moisture made it just down the shifter cap and to the shift pins which were above the oil line inside.

Did an 8hr trip to the mountains in SE Oklahoma to check out the fall foliage.  2.5 hours down, 3 trolling about and 2.5 back.







Fun little trip.

Got home, spent a little time on the transaxle.  Got it busted open, mostly good with some bad.  Most everything looked good.  There was a lot of rusted buildup on the shifter pieces, and the diff gear on one side.  Not sure if it is rust from the parts or rust from some of the metal flakes I found in the oil.  It would appear the PO did a lot of reverse gear grinding.  It had some wear on the gear, but it was not bad, and it appears to be able to flip it over should it wear out.







Pieces I am pointing at are the ones with excessive cleaning.  I think I can just wire wheel them.  I already easilly cleaned up some washers with some sandpaper.  Looks very do-able.

Those gear clusters and shifting assemblies look the same as the ones in my 600s, except mine dont have the fourth gear haha. My reverse idler gear had a bit of wear on it when I tore it apart a while ago, still works fine.

Looks salvageable to me, should clean up. Bet you could have those shafts remade for cheap in a machine shop anyways.

That diff looks weird though...not exactly what's in my 820. Yours has that port on the side, mine doesn't. Wonder if yours is the limited slip setup? Actually, on second thought, maybe since this is an oil filled trans it has a way to let oil in the diff. I remember looking through the 820 section of the Peerless manual and it mentioning not to use bentonite in the diff carrier, use lithium grease or anything else I think.

The crusty stuff seems to come right off.  That is why I was wondering if it is rusted metal shavings instead of the parts rusting themselves.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Looks salvageable to me, should clean up. Bet you could have those shafts remade for cheap in a machine shop anyways.

That diff looks weird though...not exactly what's in my 820. Yours has that port on the side, mine doesn't. Wonder if yours is the limited slip setup? Actually, on second thought, maybe since this is an oil filled trans it has a way to let oil in the diff. I remember looking through the 820 section of the Peerless manual and it mentioning not to use bentonite in the diff carrier, use lithium grease or anything else I think.

Once I get it cleaned a little, I'm hoping I can do a doc locker 3.17. Won't be sure until I can get inside the Diff.

Not the same style as Doc's.  I'll have to look into options or just leave it unlocked, but I am this far.  I need to check anyways.

Started my cleanup.  There is some staining and some pitting.  I think I will be ok as the pitting is shallow surface pitting.  This one is half done.



This one is done.  Still some staining, but the shift fork slides up and down with a smooth clean motion.  Check the other one in the background.  That is about what this one looked like to begin with.



Shift pins complete with forks reinstalled with gear selector balls inserted.



Gears all reinstalled and ready to go!  



Now to bust into that Diff to check it out!  I will do that later this week.  My only fear is a couple of the bolts are in the rust area.  Hopefully they do not break off on me.