Coil pack/ignition module mount issue

All right so I need some help.  got a kohler engine, screwed up the coilpack mounts, (long story) tried to drill em, screwed it up lost a bit in one, so tapping the mounts is not an option.  I do own a welder, so any ideas?  I was going to cut the mounts....weld a bit of square tubing on to the now cut mounts(to compensate for the square tubing height), drill/tap holes int the square tubing and mount the coil.  But I did a test section and couldnt weld the steel to the aluminum steel is 1/16" thick.  And for those of yall who use ignition module, i mean the same thing.

You can't weld aluminum to steel. I'm not familiar with kohlers, could you post a pic of what's going on? I'd say just find another engine block would be easiest, unless it's not a common engine.

Use a product caked Quicksteel to attach steel to aluminum. You can get it at oreilleys. But score up bother surfaces with 50 grit sandpaper first. This stuff is way better than jb weld. I have put together an engine block with it 2 times

Yeah I figured you couldn't. The thing is its a perfect engine and I just screwed up a simple job of replacing the coil. Kohler has a stupid advanced timing thing so I had to replace it. Like I said its a perfect engine. Ill try to get pics oh and thanks for the quiksteel tip Ill give it a try. By the way, what exactly do you mean by " I have put together an engine block with it 2 times"?

Ok here's a pic, now not of mine but see the circled peg?  And ya'll know how that screw holds the pack on?  Well that hole is stripped, screwed done with.  So somehow I need to mount it to those pegs.  Thanks for your help guys

Any chance of welding something to the end of the broken bit?

If that can be removed, I would JB in a piece of threaded rod.

You could cut down both pegs to match each other to get rid of the bad section. now both pegs are lower with fresh metal to work with. If hole is still there just drill and tap deeper without going into cylinder. Now the pegs are fixed but at a lower height, use some allthread to make studs and use tubing as shims (1/4 inch maybe) to bring coil back up to the right height.

Are the walls of the post (where the threads are) too thin to do a helicoil?

If you have a drill bit broken off in the hole, maybe you could cut some of the aluminum off around the bit, say down 1/8" or something. Just to leave the drill bit stick out of the top a little so you could grab it and back it out. Then you could JB weld in a stud or whatever other glue type stuff you want. I put a stud in a stripped out one in a guys generator once.

Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it.  Most of your methods such as cutting the pegs and using allthread I considered.  There is probably enough room for a helicoil but theyr $$$.  So I went with the Quiksteel, that stuff IS SICK!  I honestly like it better than jb weld BUT a note to everyone here, it sets up REALLY fast.  Like after 3 mins of mixing the putty, I had only like a minuet or two and it started getting hard.  Anyways Im gonna give it a shot today, Ill let yall know how she turns out! And now for some humor........

Well folks Quikstell HELD for now, but she wont fire over (stupid Kohler command SAM moduel)and I dont really wanna spend another 150+ because most of the time you buy coil packs with the SAM from what ive read. So now she turns, used a sparkplug tester, and of course put the plug to the frame and its got spark. Fiddled with it maybe ten minutes and got only TWO coughs. Not backfires just it caught and died. Guy I got this from said it had electrical issues now I sorta bypassed the SAM like I said I AM getting spark and it almost caught, but not even starting fluid in the intake will do it. New plug btw. SO,looks like two out of five bolts on the head are missing, which tells me MAYBE someone messed with it? The guy it came from was, well not very handy like at all yall know what I mean so it wasnt him. Anyone think the valves need to be tuned up? Its the last thing I can think of compression+starting fluid+spark, so that leaves valves right?