Peerless 700 Overview Video

EDIT- Adding in part numbers-

Output Sprockets

Tooth count / Peerless Part #
7T                  786077
8T                  786047
10T                786076
12T                786095
15T                786111

Steel (non-sintered) bevel gear       778154
Steel (non-sintered) input pinion      778153

Shift keys            792089A
Bushings   780105A
Pinion oil seal               Peerless#788083, or Timken 340387
Input Shaft Bearings 780086A

Now- Another output sprocket option other than what's been mentioned- The Asuza go kart steering wheel hub fits the splines, and can be found here----> http://cometkartsales.com/Azusa-5-8-Splined-Steering-Hub.html A sprocket can be bolted or welded to it.

Well thanks, learned some junk I didn't know before. Pretty neat gear sets are the same from the transaxles.

You have a very good point on the fact that transaxles always blow up. I have a 700 kicking around, maybe I will do a live axle setup on a off roader. I was gonna use it as a transmission for a racer, but then I wouldn't have reverse. Its not a matter of if the reverse chain will blow, its when in high speed applications with these things. And when it does its gonna be nasty.

802 Customs wrote:

Its not a matter of if the reverse chain will blow, its when in high speed applications with these things. And when it does its gonna be nasty.

You know... One thing I forgot to mention in the video with regards to reverse... Due to the design, the reverse chain and sprockets are ALWAYS spinning regardless of which gear has been selected. This is why failure is so possible.

Also- When I've had a chance to reload all my resources onto the new computer, I'll be posting up part numbers for OEM sprockets with varyìng tooth counts, as well as an appropriate aftermarket oil seal.

That's what I was wondering about was where you get the oil seal from. I was going to delete the reverse on the one i'm going to use, but my reasoning was mostly to save the drag from pulling the chain through the oil/grease.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

as well as an appropriate aftermarket oil seal.

Wouldn't a o ring with a id of 5/8 work just fine?

Typically, a double lip seal with an expander spring will outperform an o-ring.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Typically, a double lip seal with an expander spring will outperform an o-ring.

a regular oil seal right?

***UPDATE-Note- useful part numbers added to original post***

Two Questions,
1, are theas bearings OIL-LITES? or something like that, where their infused with oil?
2, on the 700 that doc has with the OPEN sides of the shaft, is there a seal or is it just like to closed end ones?
I just bought on from my repair shop for $10, only because the input shaft and that part of the case ripped of, but i have an idea to use the good internals. and its a 5 speed. ill put up a vid later

mudman604 wrote:

Two Questions,
1, are theas bearings OIL-LITES? or something like that, where their infused with oil?
2, on the 700 that doc has with the OPEN sides of the shaft, is there a seal or is it just like to closed end ones?
I just bought on from my repair shop for $10, only because the input shaft and that part of the case ripped of, but i have an idea to use the good internals. and its a 5 speed. ill put up a vid later

Yes, they are oil-impregnated (OILITE) bushings.

No seal. When race prepping, you run sealant around the bushing to seal it to the case, and don't get too crazy putting way too much oil in. New, tighter bushings will help keep the oil under control too.

Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

Ive heard that steel bushings are the cause to screamin transaxles or 700s. the bronze dont do that, or at least are quieter. True?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Ive heard that steel bushings are the cause to screamin transaxles or 700s. the bronze dont do that, or at least are quieter. True?

Sounds reasonable to me.

Thunderdivine wrote:

woah, can't believe they used steel as bushing to a steel shaft.

Ridiculous, huh?

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

my mst uses those steel bushings on the shaft which drives the diff gear, and they are a special size so you can't change them.

Got a seal for mine from napa. SKF #6105 just in case somewhere is having a tough time finding the Timken or peerless numbers for some reason, there's another one to use. I pressed it in and put the shaft in so I can verify it's correct.