Honda MTD Build (HMTD)

FYI this "build" is now on the 2015 build off

this build is now officially canceled, because we had to move very quickly, so i ended up scraping the frame, but i do still hav e the motor and tranny. i have an idea, but i don't know if it will work out. thanks.

What's the transmission from?

3-speed inline tranny WHAT? Deets, people- DEETS!

The same three speed in your mule 3! I just need to find one, then I will turn the mtd single speed around and use it as a rear diff. Yes the idea is credited to redneckcompter geek. I will post up some pics later

Oh cool... Good luck! Can't wait to see this take shape! Better reinforce that chassis, the iron gearbox will bend it! j/k

I am still going to reenforce it! Mtd's are very flexible... In a bad way...

Here is the pile of parts...................
the Honda GX160, story is i got it from a engine repair shop. traded a $80 chain saw for it, was pressure washer, pump blew, ceased on shaft, cut off, need new crank.


the MTD frame, here ether cut out recess and weld on new top plate, or make a elevated mount and new plate for the engine to mount with the recoil facing front, then a pulley on the crank, and on the soon to be drive shaft mounted on the right hand side from sitting on the tractor......

then here is where the rear diff shifter come out and the trany is mounted about here....... (ment to be IN the crotch hole in front of the seat)

then, i will turn the diff (the single speed tranny) so that the input shaft is parallel with the frame......

the whole drive train will be on the iner left side (from this view), while the engine on the right......

thats the whole idea, still thinkin on the brkes, would NEED dual brakes on each wheel, cuz the diff is staying open, clutch linkage will be fun.

so i had an idea, and i just tested it, the old cupler on the cut shaft of the hond is just a little bi smaller than the hole in a Pully from TSC, so i could get some relly thin sheet metal, and weld a new pully to the hud, no need for a 150 crank! maybe. any other ideas?

Yeah you should be able to do something to save that crank. I guess you would have to weld the pulley onto that piece that's stuck on there while the crank is still in the engine since the side cover is trapped on there. If your worried about ruining the crank seal, stuff a wet rag around the crank when you weld it. You going to stick with the stock steering or find some kind of gear box from something to use as a steering box? Some people have used snowblower auger drives as a steering box. Then you don't strip the teeth off ever two seconds.

mr.modified wrote:

Yeah you should be able to do something to save that crank. I guess you would have to weld the pulley onto that piece that's stuck on there while the crank is still in the engine since the side cover is trapped on there. If your worried about ruining the crank seal, stuff a wet rag around the crank when you weld it. You going to stick with the stock steering or find some kind of gear box from something to use as a steering box? Some people have used snowblower auger drives as a steering box. Then you don't strip the teeth off ever two seconds.

yup! stock stearing, for how fast i might be going, an auger would be a little slow, and the fact i live in florida and there is never a snow blower EVER! and if i were to replace the crank, i would cut it shorter anyway. i will prob weld the pully to the peace, and weld the peace a bitmore to the shaft.

im not to worried about strippin the grears, but i will put on some steering stops. before i took out the engine for ATUM, i rode it for off road and it would always lock up if it got pushed to far to the left. youd have to kick the tire to get it unstuck
prop will limit it alot, like 50% wheel turn max. well see, main worry is the drive train.

ok, so im doing some math, the engine tops about 4000 id say, still governed, but removed limiter screw. the rear diff is about 24:1, and 3rd grear will be 1:1, and i have 20" tires to put on it.
4000-1:1=4000/24 = 167rpm of tire. so pie x 20 = 63" per revolution right? so then 63 x 167 rpm = 10521 IPM, so x 60min, = 631260 IPH, / 12 = 52605 FPH, / 5280 = 9.9 MHP?
but if i work it back with 40MPH, then 40 / 60 0.66 MPM, x 5280 = 3520 fpm, x 12 = 42240 ipm, then / 63" = 670 RPM x 24 = 16091 engine rpm, so. not much speed..............
i just don't under stand that stock, it went about 8 mph, with the large gear down on the belt system............. is my math right? can some one verify the ration on the mtd single speed axles? need some help here.............
IPM Inches per minute
iph inches per hour

So after the math, it looks like it would be pretty difficult to speed up the axle, so here is an idea, i the back, after the tranny, put a 90 degree gear box, then mount a diffed go-kart 3/4" axle and run a chain. i can ajust the ratio, and i will be able to mount brakes inside the frame..... what do you think?

I can't figure out too much math related stuff unless i've got some time to spend unfortunately. Didn't notice your in florida, good point about the snow blowers... The other thing is, 30mph doesn't sound all that fast until your actually moving that fast off road with a solid suspention lawn tractor. You don't nessesarily need to go that fast for it to be entertaining. I don't know off hand what the ratios are with most stock mower transmissions. Maybe someone else on here has a better idea on what's what.

True, but i havenot decided whether it will be all on road or all propose... I did more research, pearless made a same style of the mtd, and that one looks as if I could easily speed it up. Instead of$100 in angle gearbox and $100 in axle, its about 120 for that pearless. But, I can lock the pearless if so do decide. I am thinking maybe like the mower cycles gangs purpose. A very versotile tractor.

ok, so had another thought, if it where to be a rally tractor, for some good off-road and mud and some "racing". the idea is to make a gear up 2:1 approx, so then my top speed is doubled. i could get the peerless, then do the gear up. the gear up would consist of a sprocket on the lend of the drive axle after the tranny, then a smaller sprocket on the input of the peerless. and maybe some shocks on the front axle.

OK, that is an awesome design, but I am using a forward and revers axle. Not a 5 or 6 speed he has. Also, I want a manual clutch so I can shift in mid rpm or disengage in mid or high rpm or idle my way through trails. Really cool design though. Also, I'm not going o do rear suspension.

OK, Ilooked at a newer vid, but the clutch is still not what I want. And I most likely will use chain to run from the tranny to the all so Ican aa just the ratio.

Not sure how hard you will be romping this, but FnR trannys are pretty weak as far as the case and diff carrier.

I don't know, I'm going to try, I now fearless front used to romp on, it stopped shifting, then he gave up on the tractor.  I will almost never need to ***** the rear end, if it fails, I will go get a peerless FaR....... That will last.

edit: so i think my phone changed "Shift" to "S***" or, no, that is 5 letters, s*** is only 4, i wonder..........

It foes not seem like o can upload pics from my phone..... But I have some "final" design drawings.

mudman604 wrote:

It foes not seem like o can upload pics from my phone..... But I have some "final" design drawings.

you have to switch out of the mobile version of the site. if you still cant figure it out, PM me, and i'll try to help you out

willis923 wrote:

mudman604 wrote:

It foes not seem like o can upload pics from my phone..... But I have some "final" design drawings.

you have to switch out of the mobile version of the site. if you still cant figure it out, PM me, and i'll try to help you out

its okay thanks thought i will just upload from my computer.

here are some "final" design drawings.




orry about them being side ways