Craftsman 4k (I Have Yet To Name Her)

dked41 wrote:

It sounds like you have a good plan for the engine, cost doesn't matter, pulling guys put a lot more than that into engines without blinking. A good solid engine build is a great start for any kind of performance application. Keep us posted on progress.

The idea for now was to repair whatever damage is done internally and run it until I have all the performance parts. My only question is should I get a billet rod to replace the stock one that is mesed up or just find a stock replacement?

I'll be happy to pull 30-35hp out of this engine when I'm done. I don't think I'll have a problem getting there.

TooIngenious wrote:

dked41 wrote:

It sounds like you have a good plan for the engine, cost doesn't matter, pulling guys put a lot more than that into engines without blinking. A good solid engine build is a great start for any kind of performance application. Keep us posted on progress.

The idea for now was to repair whatever damage is done internally and run it until I have all the performance parts. My only question is should I get a billet rod to replace the stock one that is mesed up or just find a stock replacement?

I'll be happy to pull 30-35hp out of this engine when I'm done. I don't think I'll have a problem getting there.

If you're gunna rev the satchel off it constantly, (witch id do with a build motor) id do rods, and stock positions if anything. ARC rods have bearings unlike stock ones i think, at least they do for inteks. Shouldnt be hard to pull 35hp out of these engines at all.

Yeah billet rod and flywheel should be fine, you can rev to the moon and not worry about it.

If you do decide to build for performance, stock pistons may not be the best choice at higher RPM's.

dked41 wrote:

If you do decide to build for performance, stock pistons may not be the best choice at higher RPM's.

The rods and flywheel were my main concern. I was reading around that the pistons should hold up. I've been over on heymow reading all the stuff. I'll post links to the real important stuff I read.

I opened the block up today. Turns out the block's screwed. The rod blew apart and slapped against the piston skirt and the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder wall is missing like a 1"x2" block of material on the bottom. The cam also snapped right behind the first lobe. I'll have pictures up tonight.

Might look for a new engine... LOL. hopefully you didn't give much for it.

1997 Murray wrote:

Might look for a new engine... LOL. hopefully you didn't give much for it.

I may be getting a block, cam, rods,  and a piston from a friend. I only traded a tractor bought for $40. And I kept the Hoosiers off it.

Here's the carnage:

Well, finally started messing with my tractor again. I started to prepare the 820 for its swap. I already have the Lucas Oil Additive that will fill it. I went to weld the spider gears to the bull gear carrier and it didn't quite work out. My welding mask doesn't darken for some odd reason so I'm not even going to try to weld with it anymore.

All I have to do is get shift keys and this transaxle will be up and running! While I'm at it, I'm also going to get a 5" pulley on the rear to help cut down on slippage. I still have the stock 9" pulley if I ever wanna completely get rid of the slippage.

I swapped out the old Kohler that didn't charge the battery and had a bad coil. I put a single-cylinder 14.5 hp Briggs on her and she started right up. She only sat in the pump shed for like 3 years. I used brand new oil, not leftovers from a oil change on my truck. Fun fact, my truck takes about twice the oil this Briggs does. The only bad thing about the engine is that it doesn't have a fuel pump. My fuel tank is right under the seat. That means that if I'm going up an incline for too long the bowl will run dry. Had that happen trying to get out of a mud pit a few months ago. Good news is that the Vanguard I traded for a while back has a fuel pump on it. It's mechanical, but I think it still works. If not, I'm going to be buying an electric fuel pump and be done with it.

Horns will be put on my tractor sometime soon, since it now charges the battery. I even have some gauges that my Dad gave me out of his Freightliner that will be going on my tractor. They include an voltmeter, pyrometer, vacuum gauge, and boost gauge.

My friend is gonna give me the hood and brackets off of his Craftsman II to use on my LT4000. The brackets bolt up in the exact same spot. The only concern I have is that the hood may not fit over my dash. I'll just have to put it on and see.

Unfortunate about the vanguard. Good motors for sure, id run one if i built another machine. Small and powerful.

I didnt know of a mehcanical fuel pump for vanguards, the one i bought and sold was vaccum mikuni aluminum case deal. You could open it up and service it.

I dont know for sure, but i think 820s pulley height is just to high than a normal 3/4" axle when you bolt it right up to the stock mounts, could vary possibly be wrong, id just make sure.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Unfortunate about the vanguard. Good motors for sure, id run one if i built another machine. Small and powerful.

I didnt know of a mehcanical fuel pump for vanguards, the one i bought and sold was vaccum mikuni aluminum case deal. You could open it up and service it.

I dont know for sure, but i think 820s pulley height is just to high than a normal 3/4" axle when you bolt it right up to the stock mounts, could vary possibly be wrong, id just make sure.

I really want one. That's why I traded a whole tractor for it. You're right about the fuel pump. It was ran off the crankcase pressure. Worse case scenario I get a free lift with the 820! Now I'm kind of hoping for the input to be located higher...

TooIngenious wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Unfortunate about the vanguard. Good motors for sure, id run one if i built another machine. Small and powerful.

I didnt know of a mehcanical fuel pump for vanguards, the one i bought and sold was vaccum mikuni aluminum case deal. You could open it up and service it.

I dont know for sure, but i think 820s pulley height is just to high than a normal 3/4" axle when you bolt it right up to the stock mounts, could vary possibly be wrong, id just make sure.

I really want one. That's why I traded a whole tractor for it. You're right about the fuel pump. It was ran off the crankcase pressure. Worse case scenario I get a free lift with the 820! Now I'm kind of hoping for the input to be located higher...

I just bought another 820 and have a mst kicking around. If i remember ill snap some picks of a comparison.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I just bought another 820 and have a mst kicking around. If i remember ill snap some picks of a comparison.

That would be great. My Spicer is still in my tractor so I wouldn't even be able to compare the input shaft height until I take it out to swap it. I still have to order 1" hubs before I can use the 820, though. Damn golf cart rims.

Well i didnt forget, but i dont really have your answer. My new 820 (or 820s now) have a extended 3/4" input shaft.


the clip is where it sits on top of the outside upper case bearing. You can see the 3/4" input to 5/8" pulley bump or whatever too. Ill see what i can do this weekend though.

Well guys, I locked the 820. Will post pictures as soon as I can. I just took the spider gears out and welded the gears on the end of the axle shafts to the caps on the bull gear. No slipping there. When I get the money I will also be buying the ROMS gearset that changes final drive to like 5.68:1. I am also getting a 5" pulley instead of the 3" pulley that is on there now. Maybe a 6" pulley. Not sure yet. I just want something that doesn't slip as much and slows it down a bit. I plan on getting the transaxle in as soon as my new hubs get here. Ordered those last Thursday. The only thing that will be needed after the transaxle is in is a fuel pump, fix the steering slop/ popping issues, and some bumpers. Those are the plans for the next month. I will keep you guys updated!

Got my hubs yesterday. Gotta file taxes and I'll be ordering the brake kit from BMI Karts so that I'll have a disc brake on the rear axle. I took the Spicer out yesterday and there was not a single nut that was stuck on a bolt. Anti-Seize is literally one of those things that everyone should be using on anything that rusts or corrodes. My pulley just lifted straight off the input shaft.