Briggs Opposed Build 46ci

Finally, i win!


Getting cleaned up.


I have the block on its side ready for the crank case bolted back on. Can i make a gasket from a sheet of gasket maker?

Also I cannot find chopper sheets for the life of me! Will other metals substitute? And do you have to deck the surface for a head gasket swap?

If your talking about the gasket around the bottom, which I'm pretty sure you are, then gasket thickness obviously affects crankshaft end play. What I always did is slide the bottom on with no gasket and make sure the crank still has a bit of play. I don't know what the specs are, but all the ones I messed with all had more than enough, even without the gasket. Then I just put a bead of permatex (black silicone) around there. Doesn't have to be super heavy. I usually snug the bolts just a little, let it cure an hour or so, then tighten them up. Probably doesn't make much difference if you just tighten them up right away though. I would let it cure over night at least before you put oil back in it.

As far as head gaskets, I don't know. I would guess that the deck would need to be pretty straight/flat with a harder gasket material. You could just check it with a straight edge. Why use heavier duty gaskets on the thing though? What's wrong with stock gaskets?

Old ones got ripped up bad taking it apart. someone said they used permatex super 300 for head gaskets and its been going good for 2 years so ill try that. Bottom i think ill use gasket material because like you said crank end play it touchy. i think stock you can move the crank up and down though.

You could probably try using shim stock, kinda like the stuff they use in feeler gauges

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Finally, i win!


I have the block on its side ready for the crank case bolted back on. Can i make a gasket from a sheet of gasket maker?

Also I cannot find chopper sheets for the life of me! Will other metals substitute? And do you have to deck the surface for a head gasket swap?

Copper sheet? Should be plenty. - And the stock gasket are ultra strong and heavy duty, and also takes up minor flaws so decking isn't needed when torqued down properly. I would'nt use liquid gasket maker on a flathead, the gap will be wrong. So if you do make sure you check the gap after with a string of soldering wire.

What's wrong with the head being closer than normal? Plenty of people run thin gaskets or no gaskets.

Well your going to want some sort of head gasket on it or else you wont have any sort of seal just a smaller combustion chamber

fast adam wrote:

Well your going to want some sort of head gasket on it or else you wont have any sort of seal just a smaller combustion chamber

I was going to smooth out the decks with valve lapping compound and then the high temp permatex. I might carve the head out a little.

Well if you go through water/mud your heads are going to warp and you will lose your seal,

It wouldn't hurt to try it. At least with this method, all your doing is making sure all the surfaces are nice and flat. Your not damaging anything, so later if it doesn't work good, you can go back to stock head gaskets if needed no problem. I don't know if water splashing on it would warp it enough to hurt anything with the bolts torqued down. Used to throw snow on air cooled snowmobile engines to cool them down on warm days without an issue. Although I realise without any gasket, there is less room for error. Anyway, gotta get this thing finished so you can start on that Turbo 46CI opposed with all billet ARC parts. Then we might need some copper o-ring head gaskets.

Yea I don't think it's going to warp much like that. And if it did it wouldn't be hard to fix. And forced induction? Ehhhh....

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

forced induction? Ehhhh....

Whaaa? Why not, doesn't look too hard to rig up.

mr.modified wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

forced induction? Ehhhh....

Whaaa? Why not, doesn't look too hard to rig up.

Not pressure lube, and screw eletric oil pumps.

Whats wrong with electric oil pumps?

802 Customs wrote:

Whats wrong with electric oil pumps?

1. Dont have enough money
2. Drain your battery
3. If battery dies you cant even pull start it or youll run the turbo.
4. I dont have enough money, or care to boost something thats gunna be a hassle.

Did i say i dont have money?

Nah. I actually bought two more projects so everything else mower wise is in a strict budget.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

802 Customs wrote:

Whats wrong with electric oil pumps?

1. Dont have enough money

You're 45 dollars richer as of Saturday. lol.

802 Customs wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

802 Customs wrote:

Whats wrong with electric oil pumps?

1. Dont have enough money

You're 45 dollars richer as of Saturday. lol.

That's probably going into this engine lol. And refilling my mig tank

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Not pressure lube, and screw eletric oil pumps.

Oh, oil for the turbo, forgot about that. No big deal. External oil pump from a car, chain driven to crank with bicycle chain and gears. Either separate oil system or oil from crankcase. Free if you've got junk sitting around. I happen to have several junk bicycles and an oil pump from a ford 460 that was in a 79 pickup.

Could you use a stock fuel pump?

fast adam wrote:

Could you use a stock fuel pump?

I'm pretty sure you cant use a fuel pump to pump oil.

I know you can buy cheap pumps that use rubber tubing off eBay or amazon

What are you going to use for a carb on this thing, Stock? Does it look like the intake manifolds are the same on these 46CI engines as the smaller ones? I know the 40 and 42CI's match up.

mr.modified wrote:

What are you going to use for a carb on this thing, Stock? Does it look like the intake manifolds are the same on these 46CI engines as the smaller ones? I know the 40 and 42CI's match up.

I can't imagine they are different. And yea I'm just swapping the 16.5s carb and intake over