Locking A Peerless Transaxle... The Doc Locker! Video Added 2/23/14

I'm thinking seriously about welding the center 4 point star from a u joint between the stock axles as the locker. It would appear very similar to your setup. If I can figure a no weld way to use them, it might be a cheap locker alternative for some. Experimentation and results to follow in a later post.   

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

I'm thinking seriously about welding the center 4 point star from a u joint between the stock axles as the locker. It would appear very similar to your setup. If I can figure a no weld way to use them, it might be a cheap locker alternative for some. Experimentation and results to follow in a later post.     

You'd have to re-measure (or me) but I believe the cross pin is 5/8". Aside from having no spider gears to break free, I did mine from a solid, single piece of shaft for structural purposes. Now, I'f I'm not mistaken, most U-joints are constructed of cast iron, and semi hollow to allow for grease. I would consider that a weak point.

In essence, it's down to this- the 900-series and MST (very similar) have NO diff carrier. The reason I blew the crap out of my old one. A hard hit on one side, and the individual axle shafts act as a lever, with the diff as the pivot point. No bueno. Consider my design (again, aside from the spider thing) an internal truss.

In the true spirit of overkill, I will probably externally truss it in the spring.

Yeah doc, I s
Was talking about the FNR MTD with 5/8 axles. A lot of noobs start out with these, and a no weld solution for grandma's MTD would be welcomed I think by some of our younger members. Most u joints are nodular iron or cast steel.... The nodular has a good bit of nickel and is called in some circles "Malleable" not that I agree with that assertion, but it IS structurally stronger than white or grey cast iron. Cast steel is what most are made from, and it welds fine, has plenty of strength (the internal cavities are small enough to make little difference, cut one in half, you'll see)

I don't think this would work well for the 3/4 and up axles/ tranny's, though I'll probably try one anyway just to be pigheaded. I show my failures, screw ups, and WRONGS as proudly as I do my successes... I'll laugh at myself FIRST... long before I laugh at someone else.

I like the doc locker but it seems to simple... Might go that route when I build up my craftsman lol

Didn't notice this thread before. Looks like a clean looking job that way. Nice.

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

Yeah doc, I s
Was talking about the FNR MTD with 5/8 axles. A lot of noobs start out with these, and a no weld solution for grandma's MTD would be welcomed I think by some of our younger members. Most u joints are nodular iron or cast steel.... The nodular has a good bit of nickel and is called in some circles "Malleable" not that I agree with that assertion, but it IS structurally stronger than white or grey cast iron. Cast steel is what most are made from, and it welds fine, has plenty of strength (the internal cavities are small enough to make little difference, cut one in half, you'll see)

I don't think this would work well for the 3/4 and up axles/ tranny's, though I'll probably try one anyway just to be pigheaded. I show my failures, screw ups, and WRONGS as proudly as I do my successes... I'll laugh at myself FIRST... long before I laugh at someone else.

Good info, good attitude. At worst, merely a proof of concept. At best, another viable locking option.

That's a good design Doc, I've welded up one of my tractors and I kinda wondered about the skimpy looking cast carrier, it crossed my mind that the welds are probably stronger then the whole assembly but I didn't bother with it. To hear you blew a carrier scares me a little. I had plans to put an extra set of 22 inch bear claws I had on this tranny eventually but I don't know now.  

A bigger better doc locker lol

check out the video on my youtube for a better view

You forgot, "uglier". LOL

Doc Sprocket wrote:

You forgot, "uglier". LOL

I think it'll clean up nicely.

Weld the collars back on, and then key the entire thing in place, and I think it'll work great!

hey doc, i broke the 2.0 locker keyway and left some lovely deep grooves on the shaft and iam wondering if steel rod is the same hardness as go cart axle stock. would save me a lot of money in shipping if i got some reg steel stock for 88 cents a pound verses 30 bucks for the axle and then 20 for shipping .

You can do a simple hardness test on the metal. Using a hacksaw, saw once or twice with little pressure on the blade, to see it the blade of the hacksaw will cut into the metal. If the blade saws into the metal then it is mild steel. If the blade just slides across the metal with no cutting then it is hardened steel. You can sample different metals for a comparison if need be. Should be a real good noticeable difference between hardened steel or steel alloys and mild steel. For a consistent comparison, the pressure on the blade is key, because you want to use the same pressure for all the tests.

A hacksaw blade is high carbon steel made for cutting mild steel. Theory is, using harder metal to cut softer metal. With this in mind.

Well that makes sense, i will go out and try that . thanks

Very nice!