14.5hp Briggs wont run, gas being blown out intake?

Hey guys first post so don't kill me if I screw something up. I've got a b&s 14.5hp that's been running fine till like yesterday. I was redoing the wiring and whatnot and when I got it hooked up and tried to turn it over all it did was spin and sputter. I pulled the plug and its still sparking. Pulled the carb it's not flooded or clogged. The pull on the intake is kinda weak so idk if that's saying something. It even appears that there is gas getting blown out of the top of the intake? I'm stumped. I have a video of the tractor trying to turn over on YouTube if hearing it will help. Just search Tyler vanderwege. It should be the first video to pop up. Thanks for any help guys.

I think if air is coming out the intake its a bad intake valve seal.

Assuming you haven't solved this yet-

You said all was good till you messed with the wiring. So- disconnect ALL wiring from the engine. This will include the kill wire from the mag, the DC charge wire, the AC lighting wire. IF your engine has the anti-afterfire solenoid on the carb, connect it to +12v. Make sure the engine is well grounded, normally by bolting to the tractor chassis and having the battery ground connected to the chassis. When you disconnect the kill wire, tape the end so it cannot touch anything.

Make sure the plug is clean, properly gapped (0.030") installed tightly, and connected to the coil wire. Make sure you've got fuel delivery (I know you already said you did but double check for this test)

Throttle up and close the choke. Connect one end of a booster cable to battery +. Now, touch the other end of that booster cable to the big lug on the starter. It should crank the engine, and if wiring WAS the problem, it should start.

I mention this because I had a similar situation some time ago. I can't remember offhand what the problem was, but IIRC it involved the AC lighting wire. Could be wrong.

Sometimes fuel mist can appear to be blown around or out of an open intake when there's nothing wrong...

To recap-

For this test, you are disconnecting all wiring not crucial to running in order to eliminate the problem. A magneto-fired engine needs no external wiring to run. We are energizing the anti-afterfire solenoid to allow fuel in, and powering up the starter motor.

Yeah right now I've got it down to basics. Battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter. Kill switch to ground and magneto or coil. And of course battery to ground. When I hit the starter the spark plug does spark. I tested it. Uh it is like a very thick mist of gas getting blown out of the intake. And now it is flooding to the point gas is pouring out of the exhaust after a few strokes. I do need to check the plug gap but that wasn't an issue before. I am seriously stumped. Like I said the video is probably the best description of the problem because you can hear it and kind of see it. This weekend ill try and make a better one of the problem.

Kinda sounds like you've lost compression. Maybe dropped or bent a valve. Have you got a compression tester?

One thing you can do is take off the valve cover and roll the engine over to see if both valves are opening and closing in sequence. You're right in that it looks like a lot of fuel mist is being blown out the carb. Makes me think your intake valve is suspect.

It could be complete co-incidence that the problem happened right after rewiring.

That's what I was thinking initially. Like a piston ring or something. Never thought about a valve. I'll be home this weekend and ill pull it apart. Being in the army kinda cuts down on free time. I honestly don't know what I'm looking for so ill document with pictures and post them so if I don't pick up on something maybe someone else will. Where exactly is the intake valve? I'm new to mower motors. I know a little but not much. Thanks for the help guys

Access to your valves will depend on your engine type, whether it's a flathead or an OHV. In your case (OHV) at the top of the cylinder (front of the engine) there will be a squared, probably chromed cover. This cover is likely held on with 4 bolts and probably has "OHV" stamped on it. Removing that cover allows access to the rocker arms, and the tops of the valve stems. The valve stem on the side closest to the carb is the intake valve. What you're watching for- roll the engine over through several full revolutions. On every 2nd crank revolution, you should observe the intake rocker pushing the intake valve open, hold it open for approximately 1/2 turn of the crank (a single piston stroke) and then the rocker should lift. As the rocker lifts, the valve spring should force the valve closed.