MTD off-road romper build.

I'd make my own if I had a plasma cutter and circle guide... I really need one.

How do you like the plasma cutter. I should get one.

My cousin will sell me the same plasma cutter with a fudged up torch head for $50 but I have no 220v in my shop and it's killing me.

They sell circle kits I'd just buy anyways.

How cheap is cheap Lawn mower mudder? And redline, why didn't you buy me that $50 plasma cutter??? How much to fix it?

He said it's like $150 for everything because you have to buy the hoses too, but that might not be it

So ive been busy with the parts department.
In the past 4 months ive got
3 700s
2 820s
aws axle
mst205
3.5hp briggs
kohler 22hp v twin

Heres a junky pic peak at one of the two 820s i got for the mtd as a backup. Ill be swapping it in, it has the ling shift shaft so ill convert mine to thatm should be about the same because i extended my shift shaft for the linkage.




This came from a murray widebody gt. It has to be a replacement or the tractor had like no hours. Looks brand new inside. It has the 1 1/4" longer axles too which ive wanted. Probably swap the input out for the one i got now, stick that in there becuase of my special pulley. Need new brakes too, thinking a bandbrake and drum on the original splined brake location.

Got this fancy beat up fairlead too, ill be cutting that tube fairlead i made up front out and weld this in. should work better.
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t34.0-12/12080857_733714040089221_254624967_n.jpg?oh=15e6b95761fa15dfbc79eac954514c76&oe=561809B9

Future ideas are pretty simple.
Make spool drum sides taller
steel cable and hook
rear boat winch and cable too with fairlead
basket inbetween the console and fender for storage
Move headlights forward and down, make little guard bars for them

Build up my 21hp opposed. I think depending on time and money im going to tear it apart and really inspect it. Look at all the tolerances. Thinking maybe a pressure lube base. Maybe different carb too, not much.

Crap. I havnt been around much lately, but jeez Red I figgerd youd have come up with another wild crazy cool update on this thing.

I did drive it at my camp a while ago but my computer took a dump and I can't upload the video which is dissapointing. Working on putting a engine together for this thing now but going to wait till I can post pictures.

New video in about, forever. Some good footage of it finally since the PA trip.

Brakes pretty much don't work at this point? Pretty neat hill though. Are there too many more spots like that close by or not really? For dirt and slippery conditions you could cut the middle out of each paddle on you rear tires. As in remove the middle third of each paddle. Then they would be super aggressive. Probably would be tough to cut though. Pretty thick rubber.

Yea no brakes, and cut what? Tires are fine, ride on hard pack is rough enough.

Go right up that hill with my super tire design, no problem.

More like slip your belt and Doug has to winch you out. Pfff, lol.

Nah. But thinking about grooving the scorpians and making some kinda bead locks. Not sure.

Had idea for your brake issue. Can you put some sort of light spring on the shaft with a bearing type thrust washer, to hold up on the rotor?

Theres probably a bunch of ways to fix the problem but ill tell you, theres more wrong with it than just wearing pads, unfortunately.

When i welded the rotor hub to the pulley, i did it to the best of my ablility, adjusting it tack welded. probably spend over a hour getting it as perfectly level as possible. it probably wobbles up and down less than a pencil tip, and when you got on the brakes there was a lot of clatter and surge/pulse of brakes just because of that, im pretty sure.

They were super touchy, pretty amazing brakes on a gear reduction from input to axle shafts, you know of course. They worked good at speed gently but low speed was like a sudden lock up. when i use them, or need them mostly is when i dont make a hill and back off it, super sketchy to have brakes lock up on something steep.

Plan is to just ditch all that, do what mr. modified did, junkyard water pump pulley and band brake for that size. Weld the pulley to the stock brake rotor, and use a cable to the handle to activate it. Are they amazing brakes? Not at all, disk rules. But i think they will come on gently and just do what i need them to do, stop it ok, and hold it on the hill so i can shift from reverse to a forward gear, so i dont roll down the hill and die, or whatever

Agree with moving the brake and it still has a geared advantage in the OEM spot vs on the axle.

Band works really good on the GTR thing. Self activating going forward, but they aren't going to work as good when rolling backwards because it won't want to pull itself around the drum. Pretty cheap and simple way to do it. I guess you probably don't want anything down on the wheel for rock clearance issues.

mr.modified wrote:

Band works really good on the GTR thing. Self activating going forward, but they aren't going to work as good when rolling backwards because it won't want to pull itself around the drum. Pretty cheap and simple way to do it. I guess you probably don't want anything down on the wheel for rock clearance issues.

Self activating? I figure low speed it should be fine to get it to work fine. Yea, going to be up by the stock rotor location. All tucked up above the skidplate

Yeah self activating. When the band is dragging on the drum, it tightens itself around the drum, so much less pedal pressure is required. But in reverse, such as when backing down a hill, the opposite happens. The band is being pushed off the drum, so more pedal effort is required for the same braking. Internal drum brakes on a car have a similar thing going on, which is why one shoe is bigger than the other usually. Notice how parking brakes don't usually hold as well if the car is rolling backwards. Disk brakes of course don't have this problem and hold equally as well backwards and forwards.

mr.modified wrote:

Yeah self activating. When the band is dragging on the drum, it tightens itself around the drum, so much less pedal pressure is required. But in reverse, such as when backing down a hill, the opposite happens. The band is being pushed off the drum, so more pedal effort is required for the same braking. Internal drum brakes on a car have a similar thing going on, which is why one shoe is bigger than the other usually. Notice how parking brakes don't usually hold as well if the car is rolling backwards. Disk brakes of course don't have this problem and hold equally as well backwards and forwards.

Hmm, never heard of that. had band brakes on my go kart and didnt see to different, but didnt spend that much time going backwards. Doesnt sound like a big deal none the less.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Doesnt sound like a big deal none the less.

So what's that mean, you don't believe me? Super heavy duty ford disk brake setup is the only way to go if you want serious braking power...

Yeah...look at how nice it is. lol. Nah, I'm not saying they won't work going backwards, you just have to push a lot harder on them is all. Probably better that way anyway because it makes them less touchy. Less chance of flipping while backing down a hill.

I never said that! Just saying it's probably not a big deal seeing how in going to use them just to hold it on a hill. Really isn't hard to achieve, not going super fast or anything

As i said last time, sump gasket was leaking so when i got up to my camp monday i pulled the engine then the sump off, gooped it up and just stabbed the sump back on and let it dry over night. gov gear doohicky looked like a pain to get set back in place with the engine upside-down so i just left it out. Gas petal is hooked right to the carb anyways.


Put the engine back in next day and romped it for the next few days. Replaced the front light switch and rear light switch connections and romped a little at night.





When i was fixing the lights i pulled the brakes off it too. Rotor just unbolts. Makes it real quiet now and no chatter like before.

Ah nice, working out in the cold! Or did you work inside and then take pics in the cold? Anyway, I still can't see how the brakes got burned up in the short amount of time they were on there. Even cars get stuck calipers ect. go for miles and the pads aren't burned off right away. Really weird. Of course I don't know how close they were to start with. That rotor has a sort of rippled look to it in the pic though. Like it's realy been cooked or something.