MTD off-road romper build.

This thing is coming along very nicely. Way to go, meng!

MurrayMayhem wrote:

thats a great brake idea. It just seems apretty big for the input shaft. I've broke alot of those things by dumping the clutch, lol.

Maybe if i had a lathe big enough id turn a inch off the rotor but whatever. Brakes alone is a luxury in the offroad mower world. Thanks Doc.

I could have this driving by this week but i got a bunch of money tied up on other junk. Playing the waiting game. Need junkyard parts, belt, and idler pulley.

I don't think you'll run into much trouble with brakes working too good, as in grabbing or anything. Wouldn't be too hard to fix if you did.

Dee doo, more stuff done. Clevis yo!



Next is skid plate, mocked up here form a 22x16" piece of 1/8" I knotched and bent up






2 bolts holding it up front and 2 in the back. Gusseted the frame so the "hitch" plate doesnt bent up.


Bunch of snowmobile junkyard heims. All are in aluminum tie rods so the smaller ones break, witch is stupid. i managed to save a few of em, and some of the broken ones it doesnt matter if its broke.


Shifter time. Modded the stock Murray nut buster shifting extension, and used a heim to support it at the top. Made some linkage and arms up, the actual rod that goes thru the frame rails is 5/8" this time, not the dinky 1/4" i used last time, bent up and eventually broke.



Gusseted the shifting arm, and used 1/4" plates drilled out 5/8" so the rod has something to move on, and wear on when moving.


Also, i deleted my old sidepipe holes in the running board. Looks way better.



Threw some hood pins on the top of the grill "pipes" and drill the hood. Race mower.

looking good redline! I love how much though you put in everything on your builds. Your also finding its easyer to gusset and overbuild, then to bend up weak stuff and try to fix it later. Great work

Still just a jenk MTD. Lol, great job though. Must be nice to have a mig, such clean welds.

Creepycrawler wrote:

looking good redline! I love how much though you put in everything on your builds. Your also finding its easyer to gusset and overbuild, then to bend up weak stuff and try to fix it later. Great work

Thanks, and yea I have. Really takes the fun out of things when it isn't working right or performing to it's fullest.

802 Customs wrote:

Still just a jenk MTD. Lol, great job though. Must be nice to have a mig, such clean welds.

lol, and yea I love it. Maybe later in life I can pic up a everlast 256 deal. $1,600 isn't in the budget at the moment

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

802 Customs wrote:

Still just a jenk MTD. Lol, great job though. Must be nice to have a mig, such clean welds.

lol, and yea I love it. Maybe later in life I can pic up a everlast 256 deal. $1,600 isn't in the budget at the moment

After 2-3 weeks working this summer I should be able to afford a mig and a tank of c25, then I can use it all summer long. Its hard to find a job at 15 in VT because the minimum wage is so high ($9.15), I'd already have a mig if somebody would hire me. I have put like 1 pound through my TSC brand flux core and I really hate it, the slag is unreal, and I'm kind of a perfectionist so it pisses me off how junk my welds look on flux core.

Damn man! Looks awesome. I can't believe the transformation this thing has gone through!

98svtcobra wrote:

Damn man! Looks awesome. I can't believe the transformation this thing has gone through!

wheres throw back Thursday when you need it?

Carshowkid wrote:

98svtcobra wrote:

Damn man! Looks awesome. I can't believe the transformation this thing has gone through!

wheres throw back Thursday when you need it?

Tomorrow, of course.

Well, its thursday, and as per requested...

1.0


2.0


Also, anyone know where to get some sealer that goes around my tire bead. Advanced auto doesnt have anything like that. NO slime....

Tsc should have some comes in a big rubber cement type can.

napa has bead sealer, its black tar and its gross to work with, wear gloves. it literally takes weeks to dry, use it as a last resort. might be able to get by with rubber cement

use power grab or other silicon sealer in a caulk type gun

Like I said before, just get tubes.

802 Customs wrote:

Like I said before, just get tubes.

My tires are seated on the rim. Tubes are a pain and I don't want to pay for that. I'll check out the suggestions.

I would avoid tubes because offroading at low psi the rim WILL slip in the tire and pinch or tear off the valve stem of a tube. I've had it happen. Bead sealer works great I have good luck with the stuff. And its cheap, also the mess is all in how careful you want to be.

I also use bead sealer on my full size buggy works great. Run 5 to 8psi with no beadlocks and no issues.

rarbaugh07 wrote:

I also use bead sealer on my full size buggy works great. Run 5 to 8psi with no beadlocks and no issues.

I think i have a can of tire cement, i think thats like the same thing. Should work good i hope. Update to come

Wouldn't the stock tractor really be 1.0? Or when it was green? So now your on 3.0?

if your having a problem getting the tire on to bead just spray carb clean in the rim and light a match and it will pop onto it I do it every time

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I think i have a can of tire cement, i think thats like the same thing. Should work good i hope. Update to come

Bit different, bead sealer thicker. Tire cement more of a thin glue for patches. Bead sealer doesn't dry out right away either and stays more rubbery.

Big update, made some removable belt guides. Theres a new idler pulley in there too.





Got my bead sealer in the mail. Stuff is great, my one tire is holding good but over 48 hours my other one has leaked down from 11psi to 3. So need more sealer.



@11psi, but i love how well it takes up the fenderwell. Juuuust clears the rear bumper. i think ill run them at 4-5psi.


Next up I made coil buckets. Lots of measurement to see how the springs are compressed, ride height, ect. 4" exhaust tubing works awesome, snug spring fit. Made up a template and cut it out.



Capped and braces added, welded to the frame, bolted to the grill.



Next up is everything shocks. Took my truck shocks and cut the stem off because they are like a threaded rod and washers with rubber gromets to allow flex witch in turn, is to much sh*t for me to mount up and junk. So i took the other truck shocks and cut the ends off them so i have matching ends. Welded the new end to the stem, weld and quickly dunk in water before it catches on fire more then it already is.


Spent a long time making these shock hoops with removable plates and junk.




Lower mounts are the same on both sides. you can see the lower coil bucket, witch is nothing special



Test run. Works great! Getting used to the brakes, shifting is smother than ever. Steering is so nice now, lots of torque to crank the tires around. Just so much more solid setup now. Tires cake up in mud stuuuupid quick. even 5th gear dumps cant help clear them out that well.






Not crazy articulation. But perfect amount imo.




So overall, drives better, tighter in every aspect. Little faster. Needs tires grooved. 820 kinda clunks into gear at some points when i drop the clutch. Needs new plugs, runs like sh*t. Wires need to be re connected.

List as of page 53:
-stronger shifter, same deal though
-fill tranny skid and sheet metal belly pan for belts
-hood pins
-drill john deere hubs and weld in bolts for hubs
-get tires to seat or tube the stupid things
-engine swap
-general sheet metal fixing  
-wiring re do, just re organize and seal up better
-re weld clutch linkage
-belt retainers
-New belt
-weld front drag link up as high as possible
-gas petal???
-D rings???
-5th tire???
-test drive!
-blow it apart and paint chassis

Forgot, i have a video i made for the first drive up too.


People asked a bunch of questions about the front setup so ill do a video just on that later.

Any plans to even out the stance? Probably more work than its worth with the jackshaft and whatnot. Those coil buckets are pretty slick.