mud monster

i hate figuring out speeds so im going to wing it and put a 60 tooth on the axle and thanks junkstartbuilds,copperhead

Chopperhed wrote:

For the above equation to be right you would have to assume the transaxle is a 1:1 ratio in high gear.

you found this calculator, what suggestions do you have to fine tune the calculations?

aw, geez, i'm working on it

thanks guys for helping me out

The build is still going just keep getting set backs like my stupid truck not running.But i should be picking up the peerless 700 and a few weeks after that i will be getting my axles,brakes,bearings,sprockets,and tire and rims.so i will make sure once i start building to take lots of.pictures

ok i decided i want to use all chain no belts and a jack shaft. what size sprocket should i use on the bottom of the trans? Also what size sprocket should i run on the jack shaft? And on last qestion what # of chain should i run? I want this thing to have a top speed of 15 20 mph.

Are you still using the Peerless? Do you know what ratios your peerless has in it, or the actual part number?

I crunched some numbers, and using the info we have so far using a 27 inch tire, with a 3200 rpm engine speed, and a 3:1 final drive ratio for the trans.

A 1:1 ratio from engine to transmission, with 3:1 ratio trans, 8 tooth output sprocket and 60 tooth at the rear wheel will get you 35 mph
a 1:2 ratio from engine to trans with 3:1 trans with 8 tooth trans sprocket and 60 tooth axle sprocket will get 17.5 MPH

These are without jackshafts

You could also go to 1;1 from the engine to trans, and a 1:2 jackshaft to get the same speed.

also these assume your peerless has a 3:1 ratio, there are other ratios possible. To find the actual ratio, put a paint mark on both sprockets, and a corresponding paint mark on the housing beside it. make sure both marks line up. then turn one sprocket and count how many turns each sprocket makes until both line up exactly again. It will be a number like 12:36 turns or something similar. That would be your 1:3 ratio

I assume you will be using a centrifugal clutch on the engine. it will probably be 14-15 teeth on the clutch, for a 1:1 ratio to the trans you would need a same size sprocket on the trans, for 1:2 ratio you would need a sprocket with double the number of teeth.

all i know is the peerless is a 5 speed with reverse and what size chain should i use?

greener179 wrote:

all i know is the peerless is a 5 speed with reverse and what size chain should i use?

If you have a part number that would help.

Chain size depends on what you can find for sprockets. I use both #40, and #50. I use #40 because that's what my centri. clutch takes, and #50 to fit my rear axle sprocket, since thats what the quad used.

This is one of the 3 reasons I needed a jackshaft

FYI

#40 Chain is 1/2" pitch. Tip center to tip center on the sprocket is 1/2". Chains are 1/2" pin center to pin center.

#50 chains are 5/8" respectively.

These dimensions are for new chains and sprockets.

Usually sprockets are market as to pitch and tooth count.

Ok one last qestion and i will leave you guys alone is 4 on4 bolt pattern the same as 4/110

greener179 wrote:

Ok one last qestion and i will leave you guys alone is 4 on4 bolt pattern the same as 4/110

4 on 4 should be 4 x 100 Actually works out to be 101.6mm

110mm = 4.3307in

could someone tell me where to get keyed 4/110 bolt bubs then?

try here lol http://www.bmikarts.com/category/Wheel-Hubs-255

couldnt find any 4/110 bolt hubs

all the hubs i see for the 4/110 is splined hubs , might have to get creative

i might ave to buy splined ones drill them out to 1 inch and get a keyway machined in them or weld a 1inch keyed hub onto them which do you guys think i should do?

i did that once the splined hole was large enough for my axle to go through so i bought a steel hub at tractor supply and welded it to the atv hub just make sure its stright lol

I went to harbor freight, (cheap place) and they have tire &rim sets for stuff like Dollies and shop carts..
Well if you remove the tire the rim is two pieces. You can weld on with bolts to your existing rim and the other part welded to your axle. At 5.99 each isn't a bad idea..and they are 4 bolts

greener179 wrote:

i might ave to buy splined ones drill them out to 1 inch and get a keyway machined in them or weld a 1inch keyed hub onto them which do you guys think i should do?

Personally, I'd go with boring out the splined hub and welding a 1" keyed bushing into it. You would be able to remove the hubs later if needed.

In order to cut a keyway on the inside diameter of a bore requires special tooling. It doesn't take long, but you would need a machine shop that can bore and broach, Broaching is the process used to cut the keyway.

The only 4 x 110 hubs I could find were for ATV's

Can you go with a different rim?

when i call to see about having a keyway cut the price per hub was nuts lol so i got the ole welder out

Or possibly wheel adapters?

Also http://www.gokartsupply.com has six inch steel wheels with 1" keyed bores.

They also have keyed hubs in a 4 on 4 (4x100) patternm and 8 inch wheels to fit.

Take a look around they have some pretty cool stuff

only problem is i need 12inch rims when i mean weld i could buy atv hubs drill a 1 inch hole in them so they can slip onto the shaft the weld one of weldable sprocket hubs to the atv hub