2025 Part 2 Plan

While looking at the engine, I see something that may shut me down.  The drain for the radiator is in direct conflict of where I would put a pulley and moving the radiator isn't a valid option.


Not really feeling the upgrade again.  Life has be bummed a bit.

On such a small engine the drain is called the lower radiator hose. If the handle is in the way, just plug it. Coolant is staying in there 3-5 years.

This is the drain in question.  I pulled the driveshaft to look.  It's almost as close as it looks.  Also, looks like the rear main on the diesel is leaking.    Pretty gummed up on the back of the engine.
 


Also, looks like I would be able to get to that steering cylinder in the Kubota easier with the engine out.  I've got extra time on my hands and a box of multiple sized o-rings.  I may tackle that while it is out of fluid and see if I can maybe replace an o-ring in there or something regardless of a rebuild kit.  What's it going to hurt now?  If I can fix with an o-ring, I may continue with using it to mow.

Hydraulic cylinders are generally all off the shelf components- the seals, packings, rod wipers, whatever. All stuff that can be measured and ordered off of McMaster or sourced from a hydraulic shop, we have a rubber and gasket place that can get them here.

The only issue you run into is with “sealed” cylinders that are welded shut and are “non serviceable” (as a machinist this term does not apply to me). I don’t know kubota to use that type of cylinder though.

It appears to be sealed with a snap ring.

It’s just a thought, but aftermarket Honda civic radiators can be had pretty cheap. I’d bet you could probably source one for under $130 bucks. Get an aluminum one and a local tig welder could probably set it up however you need short of modifying the core.

MightyRaze wrote:

It appears to be sealed with a snap ring.

Shouldn’t be a problem then, really. I think the toughest part for you may be breaking the nut on the piston loose, usually have to remove the nut and piston to replace the seal and wiper in the gland (the piece that the snapring is holding that the rod slides throuth. There is also an O ring sealing the piston to the rod that can be replaced when the piston is off, those dont often fail though.

It will be a mess, theres always more oil than you’d think in those things.

I found a webpage with a nice explanation of the anatomy of a cylinder. Believe it or not, it isn’t even that simplified. The only thing i think is missing is the wear band, which is a fibrous ring that acts as a sort of replaceable bushing to keep the piston centered in the cylinder. There’s different styles of seals too i suppose but I’ve yet to see anything out of the ordinary.

https://www.lunchboxsessions.com/materials/hydraulic-actuators/anatomy-of-a-cylinder-lesson

I learned something new, I have never seen a drain plug with a clamp and rubber nipple from the factory on a molded stem. I guess that is not easy to modify.

Not sealed with a snap ring. The snap ring is just for holding it in place. I also figured out why they don't make a rebuild kit for it. Apparently they press fit in the ends on the cylinder. Non-removable. I don't have that kind of toolage to fix that and I could easily tell water got into it and non-o-ring seals are trashed. I'll revisit the tractor in the future when work is back to normal. I don't want to let the tractor sit and waste again. That oil build-up on the back of the engine could be due to the oil filter drains on the back motor mount because I never seen an oil drip nor fresh oil back there.

As for the Green Machine. I still have it in the garage and contemplating it's future. I like it too much to part it out at this moment. I think this will close out this topic for now as too many issue and things have come up preventing me moving forward with the engine swap. I won't lock it, so everyone can give their 2¢ worth. Thanks @Rustbucket Garage for voting!

Forgot to show the pix.



There is a pressed metal cap. I couldn't bend enough, but that turquoise gasket is all torn on the back side. No fluid in the system now and when you tried to turn you could hear the air hiss.