option - best axle set up for my build 1" live axles or 1" transaxles - long spec post

Goal – build sub compact off road tractor with detachable (small) front end loader to move compost and dirt.  Plus, to pull small carts, ground engagement equipment, and carry firewood, equipment, or a second person in the cargo bed.  Top speed 8-10 MPH.  Crawl speed around .5 MPH or literally crawl speed.

Use for in the deep woods travel for overnight trips.

Question: What is worth investing into for the long haul that will last ten plus years with the most reliability ?

1” live axle in the 3rd axle position
with 1” differential axle in the 2nd axle position
or
(2) gear transaxles such as the peerless 802 with 1” axle shafts or 835 (? diff lock one)

I will probably start off with (2) peerless 205 or 206 transaxles to start if I go the transaxle route.

For live axles I would be going with a very expensive reverse gear box ($499) and 8-18 HP CVT.  

Going with the live axles or running the (used for now) gear boxes off a hydraulic pump system will both end up costing about $1200.

I think the transaxles are amazing, both hydro and gear for what they are. BUT, what I see as a sore sticking point is the expense and weight carrying ability for the cheaper ones.  The serious draw back to me for the live axles is the exposure of the chain drive to mud, sticks, and stones.  

I am not sure about the Series 40 CVT being able to literally pull it’s own weight.  Besides the tractor, I will be pulling 400-500# garden or off road trailers up hills and unpaved areas.  My 1989 Murray LT has been okay pulling 300+ pounds with it’s well used 12Hp and Peerless 205.

engine: Yanmar L100N clone for now

Electric and pull start a must.

2x6 to start
4x6 goal
6x6 eventually

at least one locked or live rear axle on each setup

now diesel powered - Yanmar L100 clone 10 HP - 15 HP later

< 8 feet overall – winch bumper to bumper hitch

< 10 feet with front end loader

36" wide front end loader

36 inches max width with tires

rear and then front:

2" ball hitch
sleeve hitch
5/8" hole hitch

nice seat
cup holders

ROP cage roll bar with rain roof and windshield (eventually) - maybe fabric enclosed cab. Cage will eventually double as ladder rack for lumber and tent platform.  So, maybe full length.

wheelie bars if needed

fan for summer - Ryobi 7” hybrid okay

cargo box for firewood that doubles for second passenger seating
tool box holder

700-800# cargo weight pass and tools
weather protected box for tool box
holder for extra diesel fuel (2) x 1 gallon
holder for water thermos – (2)x 1 gallon

12v battery with USB and 120v converter
LED headlamps
switchable side and rear LEDs
fog lamps

skid plates
gauges: tach, pyrometer, hour meter
power steering or electric assist

carry spare wheel/tire for front and rears
tire repair kit and battery powered air compressor

< 1100# weight curb weight with FEL

I wanted to use the Peerless 1000 T box from surplus center, but, it has woodruff keys instead of key ways and that might be a problem hooking it up to an aftermarket 5” pulley.

FWIW: I now have all the metal needed except some plate 12 gauge for the FEL bucket. Hopefully start my clone Yanmar this week as I am buying a used LT as a test bed so I can roll it around.

The Peerless will be hydraulically driven (not belt) because I think the T-boxes and 700s would be unsuitable for long term low cost use making them work with the horz. diesel.

So, do you think I would be better off using 1” go-kart axles or 1” transaxles from Peerless?

Couple things:
-When you say "CVT" I assume you mean a torque converter, I don't have a ton of experience with these, but I would not touch these for a utility build. They are really meant for powersports and don't have the variance, durability, or reliability to stand up to utility purposes. If you are using some other kind of CVT like a varidrive system, a peerless unit will still be way better.

-If it is possible, direct drive from those hydraulic motors is what I would go with if I could afford it, you just have a control valve as your shifter, those are extremely durable and low maitence,
(Not only that, you already have a pump to run your loader, all you need is the motors)
One step up from that is to have a hydraulic motor on each side and steer the machine like a skid loader...

The better the tractor you start off with the better it will be in the end, I'd be starting out with an old (1970's) Cub Cadet, John Deere or Ford as they seem to be the most common GTs that people put on/build front end loaders for.

This is a long  video series but worth watching, it will answer some of your questions (including using a CVT) and give you ideas/inspiration!

I will second that using a existing tractor frame would be easier, but going through your bucket list a full hydraulic machine does look like a very good idea, power steering can be a tough one, the thing I would recommend is pulling a power steering rack off an old honda civic or something (Honestly doesn't have to be tho, could be almost any car) and hooking that up, again to your hydraulics that are running near everything else

Certain Cub Cadets already have power steering and can be retrofitting into the non power steering machines fairly easily. The Sunstrand Hydro units genrally have a power port built for accessories like power lift, not that it would have the capacity for a front end loader so I'd agree with @TechnoChicken about using an automotive power steering pump although a Honda one wouldn't be my first choice. The rear ends also have really beefy automotive style rear diffs with a ring and pinion like a truck, they're known to be very robust. There's a reason you'll find ALOT of heavily modified older Cub Cadets

Brianator wrote:

Certain Cub Cadets already have power steering and can be retrofitting into the non power steering machines fairly easily. The Sunstrand Hydro units genrally have a power port built for accessories like power lift, not that it would have the capacity for a front end loader so I'd agree with @TechnoChicken about using an automotive power steering pump although a Honda one wouldn't be my first choice. The rear ends also have really beefy automotive style rear diffs with a ring and pinion like a truck, they're known to be very robust. There's a reason you'll find ALOT of heavily modified older Cub Cadets

Actually yeah honda does have some issues with their pumps, our accord had to have a couple pumps, not sure if the civics have the same issue tho?