1980 MTD 918 - 'Ol Rusty!

So this thread has turned into more of a build log vs the transaxle question is was originally, so the first page is pretty much about the Peerless 2300 vs the Peerless MST206.

Pictures start about halfway through page two, that's where I added pics of the steering wheel mod I did to gain clearance between the steering wheel and my legs lol

I decided to keep the 2300 has it's cast iron and very rugged. Should stand up to a little torture haha.

It's an old 1980's MTD 918 mower that used to have a PTO and 3 point hitch, but those were removed by the previous owner. I finally decided on the name 'Ol Rusty, I love the worn paint on the tractor I think it's got great patina. The only parts that are getting new paint are pieces I'm adding in like the motor mount plate and the battery tray. I'm leaving the outside of the tractor original.



[Original post below:]
Mods, please move if this is in the wrong place!

Hi everyone!

New guy here. I've been following and watching some guys in BC OKOffroadMowers zipping along on their cool looking mowers, and I thought "gee that's pretty cool!"

So I ended up finding a free mower with no motor, an MTD "918" (but I think it's actually a MTD 820, serial sticker is faded completely).
The mower came with no back tires and the Transaxle was sperated from the chassis,  but was complete. It's a peerless 2300, I painted the case and changed the oil. Previous oil was very dirty,  but had no water in it. Because I didn't have tires, I took off the original wheel hubs, and weld on 2 rear wheel hubs from a Ford focus so I could mount on some spare 15" rims I had lying around from an old car.

So now I need a motor, and my father has a craftsman LT1000 he is scrapping. Motor is a Kohler CV490 and runs great. It is possible the Transaxle is in good shape (don't know) and it seems there is a chance it could also be a Peerless MST 206.

I also have options for the motor - either the CV490, or a very powerful 36v forklift Pump motor Prestolite MLY-4002 (Weighs over 60lbs, and spins in one direction only.)

What are your thoughts?

Moved to:
All-Terrain Lawn Tractor Forum :: General Tractor Talk + Pictures/ Videos :: General Tractor Talk
Since there is more to the post than just Transaxle tech.

First off...  Welcome to ATLTF!

Peerless 2300 is a tank of a transaxle!  I have one in 2 different tractors!
Peerless 206 is a nice shift on the go lightweight transaxle.  Will require some mods to get it working. May not be too hard for that MTD.  Also, pretty easy to lock with @Doc Sprocket's "Doc Locker"


CV490, dang good engine.  COMMAND?  Take care of it and it will take care of you.

Hey, we all like to look outside the box sometimes.  Not sure what all you would need to do with that electric motor, but it does sound interesting.  I'd look into what relays and batteries or whatever you may need for that thing.  Weigh that with the simplicity of putting in a good running engine.

Welcome to the ATLTF!

I agree the 2300 is second only to a 633a, it's an excellent and really strong rear end plus parts are still readily available for it.

I'd run it and the Kohler without a second thought as I know I wouldn't be disappointed by either.

MightyRaze wrote:

Moved to:
All-Terrain Lawn Tractor Forum :: General Tractor Talk + Pictures/ Videos :: General Tractor Talk
Since there is more to the post than just Transaxle tech.

First off...  Welcome to ATLTF!

Peerless 2300 is a tank of a transaxle!  I have one in 2 different tractors!
Peerless 206 is a nice shift on the go lightweight transaxle.  Will require some mods to get it working. May not be too hard for that MTD.  Also, pretty easy to lock with @Doc Sprocket's "Doc Locker"


CV490, dang good engine.  COMMAND?  Take care of it and it will take care of you.

Hey, we all like to look outside the box sometimes.  Not sure what all you would need to do with that electric motor, but it does sound interesting.  I'd look into what relays and batteries or whatever you may need for that thing.  Weigh that with the simplicity of putting in a good running engine.

Thanks for moving the thread and for the welcome!
For the electric motor, I have a motor controller picked out, approx $200 CAD. The real cost are the dang batteries.... Easy $800+ brand new. I might be able to get some discounted and used, but chances of that are slim. Added weight is something I haven't put much thought into right now.

The simplicity and sound of a good engine makes it hard to pass up though...

I'll stick with the Peerless 2300 in that case! I know it's in good working order, it seems like the smart choice.

Brianator wrote:

Welcome to the ATLTF!

I agree the 2300 is second only to a 633a, it's an excellent and really strong rear end plus parts are still readily available for it.

I'd run it and the Kohler without a second thought as I know I wouldn't be disappointed by either.

Thanks for the welcome!
Good to know parts are still available! I think I amay need new seals, nothing leaking yet but one side seems to have a sloppy looking outer seal on the axle.

Are there any mods to be done to the Kohler? I know the governor should be removed/bypassed. Anything else?

Welcome to the forum! That 2300 is a tank of a transaxle and I believe they are only second in strength to the wheel horse unidrive. It sounds as though you have a belt twist model tractor, which may be very similar to the tractor I had called Budgie, of which the build thread is in my signature. I converted that tractor to horizontal shaft but a lot of the thread may be relevant to your build.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Welcome to the forum! That 2300 is a tank of a transaxle and I believe they are only second in strength to the wheel horse unidrive. It sounds as though you have a belt twist model tractor, which may be very similar to the tractor I had called Budgie, of which the build thread is in my signature. I converted that tractor to horizontal shaft but a lot of the thread may be relevant to your build.

Thanks for the welcome!
I'll go give your build log a read - I don't know what kind of motor was originally in this tractor, hopefully the CV490 will drop right in if I go with the gas motor route

Surprisingly, the easiest place to get parts although maybe not the cheapest is John Deere as they used the 2300 in several tractors back in the day!

Where in Canada are ya? A riding partner is needed in Ontario and in Nova Scotia! Lol

Also find parts through
https://bolenspartsandsupplies.com/
It's where I got some of my gaskets.

Brianator wrote:

Surprisingly, the easiest place to get parts although maybe not the cheapest is John Deere as they used the 2300 in several tractors back in the day!

Where in Canada are ya? A riding partner is needed in Ontario and in Nova Scotia! Lol

Ooh thanks! That's not a bad idea, I forgot about the older Deere's. I'm pretty sure I came across a few models when I was searching up the Peerless 2300.

I'm in Ontario, got some forest trails over by my father's house that will probably test on, then when my son is old enough we can go ride together  

MightyRaze wrote:

Also find parts through
~Snip~
It's where I got some of my gaskets.

I will keep the link handy, will probably need new seals once I get the trans moving again!


Also I was looking through the Budgie build log, and I was wondering what you used for wheels and hubs? Right now I have Ford Focus rear wheel hubs welded to the 2300 axle.

Should I cut those off and put something else one??

My 2300 came with 12” wheels with a 1” bore that just slid onto the axle with no hubs. Well, supposed to slide anyway, they were seized on and I had to cut them off and replace them. 12” rims are actually ideal because you can find a lot of ATV tires for them. These days some side by sides use 14” and 15” tires that could fit whatever rims you have for the Ford focus hubs. Personally I just work with whatever Facebook marketplace provides, or whatever winds up being expedient for me.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

My 2300 came with 12” wheels with a 1” bore that just slid onto the axle with no hubs. Well, supposed to slide anyway, they were seized on and I had to cut them off and replace them. 12” rims are actually ideal because you can find a lot of ATV tires for them. These days some side by sides use 14” and 15” tires that could fit whatever rims you have for the Ford focus hubs. Personally I just work with whatever Facebook marketplace provides, or whatever winds up being expedient for me.

Okay I see. I'll look around if need be, I thought I got the hubs on nice and straight but they both have slight wobble since ethe Ford hubs were a smidge over 1" bore...

I'm in Ontario too between Barrie and Orillia, hows about you?

Brianator wrote:

I'm in Ontario too between Barrie and Orillia, hows about you?

Oh wow! I'm just south of Barrie, I'm over in innisfil  

That's not far away at all! I'll shoot you a PM when I'm headed down that way to visit my parents in a couple weeks and if you'd like we'll meet up for a few minutes and talk tractors! Lol

Brianator wrote:

That's not far away at all! I'll shoot you a PM when I'm headed down that way to visit my parents in a couple weeks and if you'd like we'll meet up for a few minutes and talk tractors! Lol

Works for me as long as our free time lines up haha!

MightyRaze wrote:

lol

I talked to my father about the Kohler, and he had a hiccup with his bush hog, something got caught and cracked the case on the engine on it so he might need it.

He's got some other motors he said up in his shed, probably some older Briggs or something. If my memory is right and he didn't sell them, there could be some large Honda motors up there. He also has a Honda lawn tractor for parts, the motor is still there but the radiator isn't. Maybe I can put that back together. I imagine that liquid cooled Honda ought to be good as well for this project no?

Some pics! Forgot to share what I have to work with

And the Peerless 2300 with the Ford focus hubs welded on. (Need to remove them to make them more aligned)

I'd really advise against having hubs welded onto axles as servicing things becomes a nightmare not to mention the heat weakens the axle. I have a set of 1" bore wheels and no particular use for them if you're interested? They came off a 2300...

I also did a little research and on 16hp MTD models and this is what I found...
- The 916 had horizontal shaft single cylinder B&S and the 2300.
- The 820/824/826 all had a vertical shaft 2 cylinder B&S opposed and a 2300

Your grill looks aluminum is that right? If so that would lead me to believe it's the older of the bunch which in this case is the 916, not by much but they did start production of them a couple years before the 800s

ALSO.... the vertical shaft frames have flat sides and top for the engine plate so I'd bet you actually do have a 916.

Brianator wrote:

I'd really advise against having hubs welded onto axles as servicing things becomes a nightmare not to mention the heat weakens the axle. I have a set of 1" bore wheels and no particular use for them if you're interested? They came off a 2300...

I also did a little research and on 16hp MTD models and this is what I found...
- The 916 had horizontal shaft single cylinder B&S and the 2300.
- The 820/824/826 all had a vertical shaft 2 cylinder B&S opposed and a 2300

Your grill looks aluminum is that right? If so that would lead me to believe it's the older of the bunch which in this case is the 916, not by much but they did start production of them a couple years before the 800s

ALSO.... the vertical shaft frames have flat sides and top for the engine plate so I'd bet you actually do have a 916.

Yup! Grille is aluminum!
Are you talking about the hubs that go on the 1" spline axle shafts on my 2300?
If so, then yes I'm interested since I was stupid and scrapped my original hubs last fall...

Also here's a pic of the engine mounts:

No I'm talking about 1" bore keyed wheels not splined hubs but get me a spine count on them and I'll reach out to a local guy I know that could potentially have some.

That definitely looks to me like where a horizontal shaft engine would have lived based on the design and the pulleys so it's looking more and more like you have a 916 which were only built between 1977 and 1979!

*Edit* Just did a little research and had a chat with a tractor friend, he's never seen a splined 2300 and has/had several tractors with them which brings me to my next point... he's never had a JD with one and JD likes to upscale their stuff so you probably have a JD 2300 which is basically the same inside.

Brianator wrote:

No I'm talking about 1" bore keyed wheels not splined hubs but get me a spine count on them and I'll reach out to a local guy I know that could potentially have some.

That definitely looks to me like where a horizontal shaft engine would have lived based on the design and the pulleys so it's looking more and more like you have a 916 which were only built between 1977 and 1979!

*Edit*   Just did a little research and had a chat with a tractor friend, he's never seen a splined 2300 and has/had several tractors with them which brings me to my next point... he's never had a JD with one and JD likes to upscale their stuff so you probably have a JD 2300 which is basically the same inside.

Oh cool! Even older I checked back on the Facebook conversation, he said it was an MTD 918 from '74.

I can try to get a spline count for you this weekend maybe, but I'll be out of town for most of it.

It's possible that the 2300 is from something else - it was not attached to the tractor frame when I picked it up for free, wheels where gone as was the 3 point PTO. Unfortunately the tag on the 2300 was damaged, so I wasn't able to read the model number (maybe it's a 2351?)

I wouldn’t be surprised if MTD put splines on their 2300 axles. My 2300 in Budgie had a splined input shaft.