[23] Brianator's "Silver Bullet" ~ Super Stock Race Mower

Well no physical work done today but I did put this together to illustrate the difference between before and after the body drop.

I also got 5/8" spindle bolts with castle nuts, 1/2" kingpin bolts and the material I need to make the steering shaft, spindle barrels, drag link and tie rod.

Then I designed the end plates for the axle I'm building, I've given it +/- 15° of caster adjustment which is probably way more than I'll need. Now that I have that sorted out I can start figuring out the measurements to cut the spindle barrels down to, I'll use about 1" worth of washers so I have some height adjustments I can make. I'll need to completely build and assemble the front spindles with end plates installed on wheels so I can figure out the width of the front axle.

Lots of work to do, the front axle will be a project on its own and is something I'd like to tackle sooner rather than later!

I know I am probably jumping ahead. You planning a jack shaft to make up the difference for the new transaxle pulley location?

@MightyRaze That was one of my first thoughts but the more I thought about running a jackshaft the more I realized that without a way to fully disengage the belt from the trans I wouldn't be able to shift it on the fly plus there might not be enough room to run the trans strait up and still have the tractor as low as I'd like so I may run it upside down. It's all up in the air right now, I'd like to mock up the MST (or any MST 200 series) to see what I'm up against before I make a decision but I'm liking the thought of running it upside down, less weight, much simpler and cheaper as well!

Tonight after work I cut out and drilled the front axle end plates, unfortunately my 1/2" drill bit is doneski so the holes are only up to 3/8" until the new bit I ordered comes in (a day or 2).

The front axle and steering is going to be one heck of a project that's for sure!

Would running it upside down cause it to run reverse? Hmm...

Not if you orientate it correctly by keeping the front of the trans facing forward!  There's 2 differentent ways to envison it... you keep it strait up and turn it 180° now the forward gear(s) are driving the wheels backwards but if you then flip it upside down the wheels are driving forwards.  If you just flip the trans the forwards gear(s) are driving the wheels backwards but if you spin it 180° they're now driving forwards. You can essentially just flip it end for end and you're good, yes I've tested it on a trans out of a tractor to be sure! Lol

The MSTs are oil filled with proper seals on the input shaft (and hopefully shifter), from what I've read oil leakage is minimal at best.

So basically, upside down with the shifter in the rear? I see it working that way. I think I gotcha. I'll try to keep it in the now.

Wherever the shifter is located is inconsequential, keep the front of trans facing forward and you're good to go! I think why it works is because of a glitch in the Matrix but I'm cool with that! Lol

Just a quick update!

I've been working on the front axle bits.

So far I've cut the spindle barrels down to length (2.5"), how do you like how I cut guide lines for when cuts need to be perfectly square?  Lol. I notched it about an 1/8" and usually do it holding the grinder but it clamped in the vise so nicely I figured why not try it!?

Why 4 you ask when I only need 1 per side? I'm making 2 sets at different angles, 1 set for the standard 10° KPI with 0° of camber and a second set at 7° to reach 10° KPI with 3° of negative camber. With the rod ends as the king pin mounts there will be alot of adjustability with KPI and camber but because they're locked together adjustability wise I decided to have a little fun with it and they'll be super quick and easy to swap, only 1 bolt per side!

I also finished drilling the end plates, sure glad I went for +/- 15° caster, if I had gone with 10° the holes would've been into each other and that's tough on drill bits!

Here's everything together awaiting the next step.



The next step which I'll be getting back to work on in just a few moments is tricky... I decided to make it overly complicated to not only test myself but to hopefully make the spindles much stronger and cleaner looking than just welding the bolts on which I figured would also be difficult to get the angles right. I'm drilling 1/2" holes at the angles I want into the spindle barrels and once I know what length to cut the 5/8" spindle bolts down to I'll turn the ends down to be a press fit and then they'll be welded! This should guarantee accuracy and strentgh and if not you can find me sobbing quietly behind my workshed! Lol.

That's all for now but I'll have more updates to come this weekend I'm sure!

I'm happy to report that I got er did!

The spindle bolts have been turned down, pressed in and welded on to the barrels!


Then I cut some 5/8" ID tubing at a appropriate angle to match the spindles, tapered the inside and welded them on so the wheels have something flat to roll against.


A quick test fit to see how it looks and a quick measurement to see how much scrub radius I have and... about 2.5" which from what I know is pretty respectable!


Now FINALLY I can get working on the axle beam itself! Turned out pretty decent if I do say so myself! Can you spot the ATLTF sticker?
Lol.


The spindles took so long to make, a full day's worth of work so I decided to just make the one set for now and I'll make the 10° set another day.  The axle end plates are only tacked in place, I'm going to take it into work and use the big welder so it's quicker and stronger,  decent plan right!?

Man I'm tired now!

I see why you didn't chat long tonight. That is really cool looking. Very nice fab work!

Brianator wrote:

Can you spot the ATLTF sticker?
Lol. 

Middle of the top lid of the craftsman tool box.

By the way the fabrication of them front spindles and axle beam look really good.

Thanks fellas!

I'd hate to DQ you @muddstir on a technicality so I'll give you break here, the lower chest is a Craftsman but my upper mechanics box is a Beach which you may or may not heard of (made in Canada). The handles have a distinctive look to them.

Brianator wrote:

Thanks fellas!

I'd hate to DQ you @muddstir on a technicality so I'll give you break here,  the lower chest is a Craftsman but my upper mechanics box is a Beach which you may or may not heard of (made in Canada). The handles have a distinctive look to them.

I love how half the drawers on the tool chest are open, never heard of a beach, where do they sell those?

@TechnoChicken they haven't been made for many years, last was in the 80's I believe. Their heyday was in the 60s and 70s and when I believe mine were made (I have 2 that are slightly different).  You can find them for sale on Kijiji often but people who know their worth don't let them go cheap!

I ain't got time to be opening and closing drawers when I'm in work mode! Lol

I got a little bit more done today!

With the front axle ready for mockup on the chassis I trimmed off anything that would sit below the axle.


I decided that even though it will add a little weight that I'll use the original axle mounting plate for a few reasons: First, it will make it super easy to get the axle level with the frame. Second, the tabs on the front are for mounting the grill so by using the stock stuff I won't have to fab up grille mounts. Third, it's allowed me to bolt the front axle on (with the original hardware) instead of welding it which was my original plan but after reading a certain racers perspective on bolting vs. welding I was sold on bolting it. Last but not least.. it's like a built in reinforcment adding strength and preventing flex up front!


With the front sorted out it was time to turn my attention out back, I'm very motivated to make this a roller as soon as possible so I sat down, had a beer looking at this pondering how to make adjustable mounts.... The threaded rod you see across the chassis is just temporary to pull the sides in to where they should be, I'll make a proper brace at some point.


What I've come up with is using plates to mount the trans on to with welded in studs (the bolts are just for mockup), there will be 2 upright plates welded to it that will span the cutouts in the chassis by at least a couple inches, one on the inside and the other on the outside effectively sandwiching and clamping the chassis between them. The inside plate will be tapped/have a nut welded on and the outer plate just strait holes, with slots cut in the chassis it should make it quick and easy to tune in the rear ride height and make adjustments on the fly. Perhaps I could even add height adjuster bolts and indicators in the future?


With all that done I tossed the wheels on and had a quick look before shutting it down for night!


I'm really happy with how much progress I've made already but I still have ALOT of work ahead of me, the steering is going to be a big project I'm sure and that will come next!

For Brianator, the first “coming of age” with a mower build is painting a part with bedliner.

You're killing me over here @Rustbucket Garage

I officially have a roller! Well, once I actually put the wheels back on it that is!

I made up the trans mounting plates this evening, I just tack welded them for now. The uprights are threaded but I'll probably still use nuts on the backside to really clamp them down good!


Here's the trans all bolted up. In case you're wondering why the plates stick out so far...the MST has a second set of mounting points that I'm planning on taking advantage of because why not!


That's about it for now! I still need to verify that the trans is sitting square before I fully weld the mounts and slot the holes in the chassis for height adjustment but at least it's in!

When you are done, you can make me one of those front axles. LOL.

Seriously though, I may have to copy your axle in the future for red.

Glad you approve but I think cost of shipping would far outweigh the material costs!  Lol. You're pretty handy I'm sure you can make it happen but I'm more than willing to help if I can!

I should actually measure the KPI, and the angles of the stock spindles for fun!

Well, not alot going on this past week because I've needed a break after the past 2 weeks of givin er! I did finish weld the front axle today at work on the big welder and have been putting alot of thought into the steering, I think I've settled on the design I want to go with after looking over everything and will probably get a start on it this weekend.

This is how I was originally thinking of doing it but I'd have to notch the frame rail and build a big, bulky, bent steering arm for the drag link so needless to say I'm not enthused about it.


So I think I'll build a center bellcrank like this. It should allow me to expand and slot a couple of existing 5/8" holes in the frame rails for the tie rods and tuck the drag link between the belt/pulley and the chassis keeping things clean and protected.


I really should mock it up with the axle, trans and a motor in place and the wheels on so I can see what I have to work with so I guess that will be the first thing to tackle!

I think your bell crank plan would offer greater stability and strength as well.

I seconded the bell crank plan too.

Couple craftsman gt 6000 I have came with a similar setup and to me they steer way better than any of the other setups that came on my other mowers.

It'll cost a fortune to heim joint every end but would totally be worth it.

Guess that's settled then, bellcrank steering it is! I actually already have 2 left and 2 right hand threaded 3/8" heims so I've had to order one more of each so I still have full adjustability.

I got a little bit done yesterday, the motor plate has been trimmed to clear the front axle mounting plate and welded into the stock location.


Then I did some work to straighten the chassis uprights and reinforced them with a part of the original deck lift mechanism, where I placed it just behind the dash will give me somewhere to rivet a filler panel to as well! I actually ground the ends down so it would sit fairly flush and welded it top and bottom.


I tack welded the upper bearing in the dash after removing the rubber seals... what a chore that was and wish I had been able to come up with a different way to do it but it's a little late now! Lol. I installed and aligned the lower support bearing using the steering shaft and it slides in and out pretty nicely (when unlocked) and goes through the original hole in the bottom as per the rulebook.


Today I'd like to at the very least mount the trans and mock up an engine so I can start mapping out the steering, I'm really hoping to be able to get the drag link between the engine pulley and chassis but I'll just have to wait and see I guess!

That's all for now!

Well, I did mount the trans and a motor earlier but that's about it. It definitely looks like I'll be able to build the steering as I'd like but won't think too much about that until I have the pulleys in hand to mock up.

Okay, so I have good news and "other news". Lol

First the good news!

The (weld on) pulleys and engine hub came today! I settled on 6.5" front and 4.5" rear which works out almost the same a 6"/4" but with more belt gription and a slightly lower ratio for more speed!


In "other news":

With the front pulley sitting flush at the end of the PTO there's quite the void to fill but I need the pulley there for alignment... I'm thinking that if I get a new front pulley for The WarHorse, cut it's stock pulley tube to length then weld it onto the engine hub so it's full length then I can bolt it down as well as use the keyway and set screws so no biggie right? I think that's a decent plan anyways! This should also allow me to extend the pulley past the end of the PTO if I need to.  


While we're talking about pulley alignment check out how the rear pulley sits about 1" lower than the front when it's sitting directly at the base of the input shaft, theoretically where it could with a hub... 

...which brings me to my next points:

~With the tops of the rear tires already almost touching the fender pan (which is at stock height) I can't raise the trans in the chassis much more to get the pulleys to align... a little perhaps but not alot.
~The 5/8" hub for the rear pulley will work great for the MST that's destined to go in but it won't for the FNRs 1/2" input shaft and I'd like to run the FNR at the start.

So here we have a dilemma within a dilemma, even if I got a 1/2" pulley hub it still couldn't get the pulley where it needs to be nor would it on the MST... but with the pulley sitting as close to the case as it can alignment looks decent.

Luckily I'm pretty creative and have a bunch of parts kicking around! 

First I measured the case around the input shaft, 1-3/16" at its largest.

Okay so maybe I could use a 1-1/4" pulley hub to lower the pulley? But then how to attach that to the input shaft? Well wouldn't you know, both the stock FNRs and MSTs input hubs outer diameter is... you guessed it - 1-1/4"!! I know it's possible to remove the hubs without destroying them or the pulleys because what you're looking at is 2 FNR pulleys, one stock and the other with the MST hub welded in!


It looks to me like all I'll have to do is bolt the input hub on the trans, install the pulley with a 1-1/4" hub on it, add threadlocker and tighten the set screws... I could even weld the hubs together if I want. I should be able to adjust the trans' height in the chassis to fine tune it as well so I'm hoping this is a big win!

So I guess the "other news" is also good news just more work!  Lol