Off Topic Anything 2023

Brianator wrote:

My experience with offshore carbs is that they are designed for (as an example) 11-16hp engines and if you're lucky they'll work great with a little tuning BUT if you can't tune it so your engine runs well then swap over the jets from your original carb (if you have it) and you should be able to tune it right in. I've had good luck with doing that and remember suggesting it to @MightyRaze and that it worked well for him too, was a Walbro carb I believe but don't remember the machine...Green Machine or Lil Red perhaps?

That was what I was trying to say but better. I had one where the only issue with the carb was that the customer lost the jetting piece, that was an absolute nightmare. Bought a chinese carb, swapped it on, surged like crazy. Drilled the jets all that stuff I had a rebuild kit and all that sh*t multiple jets, could not for the life of me get that thing to quit surging, ended up having to sell him the carb off my Wheel Horse 210-5. (actually the reason I sold that is because I was so fed up with the china carb on that running so badly.)

@brainator man I had to do what I could with what lil I had to work with but next year will be different story cause I'll have more to work cause my woman is going work at the nursing home to make more money so it don't just leaving me to pay the bills and stuff so it's leave me more money to work with and to do more . And one peice of my puzzle showed up finally but the carb didn't showup

The diode I ordered when I ordered my carb and I used the numbers from my original carb to order my new that was supposed to be delivered with these diodes

I think I might make a few 633 pulley adapters and sell them. Probably make them to fit a normal tractor supply weld on pulley.

@richierichoverdrive how much.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

I think I might make a few 633 pulley adapters and sell them. Probably make them to fit a normal tractor supply weld on pulley.

Is that a tapered shaft? I had no idea the 633s had those, how do guys usually run those without adapters?

TechnoChicken wrote:

Is that a tapered shaft? I had no idea the 633s had those, how do guys usually run those without adapters?

Drill out the welds on stock pulley, then weld a new pulley to the hub.

@TechnoChicken I've been there and done that! I've actually found that sometimes I have to adjust the governor (usually just the adjustment screw) to tune the surge out on motors old and with new carburetors.

@Hillbilly mowers I'm the same way, if I can build it with what I have even if it takes way longer I'll do it, I only buy what I can't make which brings me to my next point...

...I bet you could sell a few of those @RichieRichOverdrive but not to me! Lol. Having access to the right tools is a thing of beauty, I waitied years for the right deal to come along!

@MightyRaze they don't all have that fancy hub such as this one I own and I will NOT be hacking this pulley up.

Brianator wrote:

@TechnoChicken I've been there and done that! I've actually found that sometimes I have to adjust the governor (usually just the adjustment screw) to tune the surge out on motors old and with new carburetors.

@Hillbilly mowers I'm the same way, if I can build it with what I have even if it takes way longer I'll do it, I only buy what I can't make which brings me to my next point...

...I bet you could sell a few of those @RichieRichOverdrive but not to me! Lol. Having access to the right is a thing of beauty, I waitied years for the right deal to come along!

Which can work on oppys and things like that with adjustment screws, but I've found a lot of those cheaper briggs have governers with zero adjustment, really they are built to last a long time with (almost) zero maintenance and then explode and be disposed of. (obviously if you don't change your oil bad things happen)
(actually on that note I did own a pushmower that was advertised as "zero change oil" "Just check & add" not really sure exactly how that was supposed to work out, I assume briggs just put a really damn good synthetic oil in there and said "when it blows up it blows up". Also could be possible it was designed to burn oil and just kinda drained itself and you just filled it again?)

@TechnoChicken I've never actually needed to adjust one on an oppy and don't see an adjustment screw so adjustment would be done with the spring, pretty sure one of my old Briggs has the screw. Most Tecumsehs I've seen do and Kohlers as well but not Hondas/clones (they have a governed speed adjustment screw). I've been in the postion of having to resort to adjusting the actual rod which is really tricky, a finite adjustment makes a huge difference!

Where there's a will there's a way!

Hey Everyone!  I have some NEW BUILD news to share!🥳

1)  My hydro JD LT160 "Green" as my sister's family call it is coming home from my sister's for a PM.  Then she will go out to my farm 15 minutes away to be on permanent duty there assisting with moving generators, pulling a small trailer, and trail and general grounds maintenance.  Since it's a hydro even my mom can drive it when she comes out to visit.

2)  I reached out to a college buddy's father in law that has a Massey Ferguson garden tractor sitting in the weeds at his house 1 hr from me.  However it turned out to be a hydro that he does not want to sell because he drove it a long time ago.  He's attached to it and would like to motor swap it someday. His neighbor blew up the 14hp Kohler K Series that's in it.

3) However he's a buddy of mine so he's giving me for free a hydro cub cadet with an 18HP Kohler Command V-twin  🥳.  It hasn't ran in a year or so but that's no problem.  My girlfriend's son is 12 and has shown some interest in wrenching on stuff.  I'm going to use this opportunity to start a buddy project where we try to build a dirt cheap easy to drive mudder that local friends can use when they want to ride with me.  According to Travis in Maine, these are built very heavy duty and can do about 10 mph after a tire swap and bypassing the governor a little bit.  Progress might be slow on the build because it's a buddy project but once I bring it home I will start a build thread and post what parts I scavenge for it.

4)  Is the name "Chub Cadet"  too R rated of a tractor nickname?

Hillbilly mowers wrote:

@richierichoverdrive how much.

Material will be a couple penny’s, I will just have to see what kind of time it takes to make one before I put a price on them.

MightyRaze wrote:

TechnoChicken wrote:

Is that a tapered shaft? I had no idea the 633s had those, how do guys usually run those without adapters?

Drill out the welds on stock pulley, then weld a new pulley to the hub.

I usually just cut the stock pulley off and turn it down in the lathe to fit a new pulley nice and centered before I weld it. Did the GT6k like this, as well as two others for other people. I think the hub I’m making will be nice because you can just buy it and a TSC pulley and weld it together the same as you would a regular TSC pulley.

Brianator wrote:

@TechnoChicken I've never actually needed to adjust one on an oppy and don't see an adjustment screw so adjustment would be done with the spring, pretty sure one of my old Briggs has the screw. Most Tecumsehs I've seen do and Kohlers as well but not Hondas/clones (they have a governed speed adjustment screw). I've been in the postion of having to resort to adjusting the actual rod which is really tricky, a finite adjustment makes a huge difference!

Where there's a will there's a way!

Maybe we're talking about different things, but on most oppys there's a screw the lets you turn the RPM up on the govenor

@TechnoChicken I've just checked both of my oppys and (without any disassembly) I don't see a governor adjustment screw, just mutiple positions to move the main spring and the idle adjustment screw. Maybe the newer (90's) ones added that but I'm not sure, mine are older ones (built in '79 and '83). *EDIT* I just checked my Opposed service manual and that's exactly it, the newer oppys had an actual screw.

The finite and tricky adjustment I spoke of is by resetting and when necessary adjusting the relation of the governor rod (coming out the block) and arm, I'll admit it's a last resort technique when absolutely nothing else has worked.

You can also use it to get more rpms out of a motor than the adjustment screw (where applicable) can provide, I've done that too on the Champion 6.5hp (Honda clone) in my "Ditchbanger" quad that's running a TAV2 30 series CVT (yes I have the plastics for it and yes they're very beaten up and ziptied togther!)

It's still not very fast (36ish kph) and the only issue left with it is the chain coming off the rear sprocket if I whip the rear end too hard but it's a nice easy crusier to ride. Maybe one day I'll get around to replacing those worn out swingarm bearings! Lol

I bet he is talking about the screw that has the spring on it on the swivel.  Only governor adjustment I know is bending the tab the spring is attached.  Briggs made a tool for that, but plyers work fine.

MightyRaze wrote:

I bet he is talking about the screw that has the spring on it on the swivel.  Only governor adjustment I know is bending the tab the spring is attached.  Briggs made a tool for that, but plyers work fine.

Yeah I think that's it, not really 100% sure it could be for something else, I assumed it was the govenor adjuster as it increased the rpms when adjusted

Post a pic @TechnoChicken so we can figure this out! Lol

@Brianator how dose the governor work on Briggs 17.5

@Hillbilly mowers post the model number and type of the actual engine you're referring to and I'll find out, there are different ways they did it over the years and different engine models.

@Brianator the model numbers is . 17.5 HP ohv model#311777. Type#0209-E1.code#020104ZD
Theres the numbers and I postedt some diodes on here an I was wondering if they're good enough to us

@Hillbilly mowers yours works with springs only, I don't see an adjustment screw in the manual but honestly it would be the last thing I try to mess with if I were you, it's set from the factory and SHOULD be good.

@Brianator I was just a wonder but the other day when I had it running it would run very good as long as I keep pouring gas down the breather hole to prime it but it wouldn't fit the gas through the line at 1st then I'm prime it the it start and it sounds good but I order the carb for it by using the number from the engine but its lost in the mail somewhere

According to the manual, that engine has a fuel pump so it should be tested by removing the line from the carb and making sure it's actualy pumping fuel. I find that mowers that have a rear mounted fuel tank can take alot to get running because it takes time to get the fuel back up to the pump, a trick to get fuel flowing quickly is to blow into/pressurize the tank while cranking the engine over. A permanent fix is to install a fuel check valve back near the tank to prevent it from rolling back towards the tank, I've successfully fixed the issue doing that in a couple of my friends tractors, they're not expensive either (under $20 for 2).

As for the diodes, they SHOULD work (make sure it's facing the correct way), I have the same ones for the lighting on my Honda Z50 but haven't got to that yet.

@Brianator well that doesn't have a fuel pump it gravity fed and that how it was when I got it and it has the old tin flywheel cover on it and it never had fuel pump on it .

Brianator wrote:

Post a pic @TechnoChicken so we can figure this out! Lol

I'll upload them and some pics of my new sears and snowblower rig

Diode direction