-= Li'l Red =-

Uh oh... I see a horn.

So, we're not doing an independent setup, right?

Where'd you get them shocks at?

Oh, I've had the horn for quite a while.  It's been on Li'l Red since before I was running the 80's style hood.  No, going to do a monolink like I did on my blue tractor Kal.  I've done it a couple times now and it works well, and works well with a rack and pinion too.  Not too much to get in the way.  I've had those shocks for years.  They came off of an old youth 110CC Chinese ATV frame that I have been scavenging.

looks good man

MightyRaze wrote:

I've been looking at those shocks for a few days when I was sick and thinking.  They look kinda rough.  I should take them apart and clean them up.  Not saying I did, but some sketchy floor jack and tie strap action may have happened to get them apart.  I can neither confirm nor deny it happened.

  nuttin' wrong with redneck ingenuity.

Getting them back together maybe another trip..

OK, they are done.  Not 100% happy, but they work.  My green turned out to be pretty junky paint.  I told myself I would never use Krylon again... this is krylon and it did not disappoint disappointing me yet again.

I have used Krylon a couple times I think. I don't remember having a specific issue with them. I have had issues with really cheap no name brand paint, that stuff is really bad. Generally speaking I use rustoleum brand spray paint or duplicolor.

I have noticed that some colors, yellow especially, seems to go on a bit thin and will need to be coated a couple times. It helps to use primer so it's all one color first but even then sometimes you'll need a few coats. Usually red or black coats well without showing through. I don't know if it's a color thing, like a certain thing they use to make that color that messes it up, or if it's a brand thing. I know yellow is usually a problem for me but not sure which brands I used at the time.

Also I know black really is extra sensitive to high humidity. It will turn grey and blotchy if it's too damp while drying. I suppose other colors will do the same but I noticed it most with black.

Springs look decent though.

I use $1 black walmart paint... Works great!

Refresh is kinda slow... waiting for parts.

Meantime... Think the struts will work?



LOL, just kiddin.

I did spend the first part of the day re strutting all four corners of the Impala today. Drives like new again!

I was just gonna say those look like GM W body struts and then I saw impala and just thought yup. That’s them.

Oh yeah, going IFS on 'er now!

I really need to get some traction on this rebuild.  Aye. 

I have some parts on order so I can make heads or tales what I am doing.  I have a different Murray front spindle on hand that is way shorter than the one on Red now.  Looks to be in better shape too.  I know I have another "matching" around or I did. (hope i still have it) and I will replace the ones on it.  I just don't feel comfortable with the drop down length of the originals.

Still have not found the matching spindle.   
I could steal the ones off the old 85 Murray in the back, but that may be used another day.  I found another set but they are long too?  Aye!   I'll just stick to what I have and brace them up somehow.

I'll get a pic of the 2 different Murray Spindles later today if I remember.

OK, went ahead and put my anti-skid pads down on the footboards.



Also... picture of the different spindles.  The 89 Murray Widebody, one original to the tractor, the 82 Murray GT (I incorrectly labled the pic 85), and a 94 Murray/Noma.  The 89 is really long! The 82 is strong on the spindle but super weak on the spindle arms.  The 94 one is almost perfect except for the fact that the axle part is about 1/4 inch too short to go through the axle, but they are in good shape.  No gouges.



I should start picking up on this build again soon.

floor boards look good, Personally Id run the 82 arms and gusset the steering arms, I dont trust any stock spindle I always brace them, so the weaker arms are a moot point to me. JMHO

Yeah the spindle arms are not an issue.  There is a steel bushing on the 82's that need to come off to check to see if they are long enough.  Only big issue with them is the bottom of the spindle are scored pretty good.  I have one more set of spindles I can check somewhere out in the building still on an axle I kept from an old build.  I'll check those too.  Man I really wanted those 94's to work.  They are a different steel and they are not gouged.  They are much more like a suburban strength metal.  Guess I could always make me an axle.  LOL.  That requires more material.

Yay, almost like Christmas!

Got my new battery box for the rear.  The old one was cracked up and about to drop through!


I also got new heavy duty ball bearings for the front wheels.


A little frustrated with FedEx about this one...




Got my Rack and Pinion for the front end.  Trying a different brand and configuration.  Much sturdier than the Yerf Dog ones I have been using.


Looks to be the same 5/8 36 spline.  I need to double check that before I get my extendable universal shaft.  Be so happy to get this thing finally on 4s w/steering again.

Not a 5/8 36 spline. So I will need to do some figuring out. Repainting the springs on the shocks. That green is just horrible.

Now to figure out how to either adapt or start fresh with the steering.

AYE! That rack may be pretty cheap but the universal and steering shafts for that Rack are super $$$!!!

I will weld a stub on the steering gear and adapt to the 5/8 36 spline system. Seat is back on.

MightyRaze wrote:

AYE!  That rack may be pretty cheap but the universal and steering shafts for that Rack are super $$$!!!

I will weld a stub on the steering gear and adapt to the 5/8 36 spline system.  Seat is back on.

And that's why we do what we do ! build it, break it, fix it, improve it ! as cheap as possible and we have fun doing it !

I saw those while looking for the rack I finally bought. I stayed away from it because of the angle on the input shaft. Ideally for my setup the input is perpendicular to the rack and in the middle.

Curious to see how you make it work

Input angle doesn't appear to be too bad. Also, I am actually a bit excited about it as it will work around the input pulley a bit. Biggest issue I see at this time, connecting up the monolink to the axle as this rack is huge!

Lots of work today.  First time in over a month I had a day dedicated to just build and tinker.


Welded up some angle for the Rack to bolt on.



Testing fit.  Looks good!



Test fit on the tractor.



Monolink welded up.  Ignore the boogers.



Bottom side paint...



Top side paint.



Now I need to create a belly-side mounting point for the monolink.  Good to have some progress today.  Hopefully sometime this week I will get the axle mounted.  I'll need to get the spindles modded up and the Rack modded as well.

Nice job on the rack and pinion mount Mighty!

How thick is the wall on the tubing you used for the wishbone? Just wondering how strong it would be on that part between the support tubes and the heim joint. Also it would be beneficial to have the support tubes welded out further on the axle. It's always best to have suspension links mounted as close to the spindle knuckles as possible, to allow for the most support and least amount of stress on the links.

Just my way of thinking though, haha. I'm sure it'll be fine the way you have it. Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the Info... I'll try some stress tests and see how it comes out.  I could work up some gussets up front.  Not sure about the section in the back as I have a bend in that section.  I am currently on hold as I didn't think about it earlier, but I am a little concerned that my steering shaft may come into contact with the monolink.  If so, I'll have to chop it back off and try again.

Bolted the rack up.  While I feel better about not having to tear it apart, the possibility is still there.  I think it is just right.

Did some checking about those points of interest @AllisKidD21.  The support braces are only about 4 inches from the end near the spindles.  I think that will be OK.  I did some twisting checks with the heim end.  I could not get it to twist, but I will look into that a little more.  I think it merits a second look.  I think I can put in a brace from the side brace to about where the bend is.  The bend is the key to making the steering work.

Video update on Red!


++missing video++