Alright I traded the 85 Craftsman for something even better…
A Craftsman 91725742 I don’t know the year quite yet but she is a nice one. Does it have rust you may be wondering… yes but it’s just surface rust but a wire wheel and rust neutralizer and a fresh coat of paint or maybe just some rust neutralizer and clear coat to keep the antique/vintage look to her/him (haven’t decided yet). But I do need some help with finding parts ie “front grille, carburetor or carburetor rebuild kit, possibly a gas tank ““currently full of water hopefully I don’t need a engine too” if I do I’ll probably put Predators new Ghost Engine on it or if I can find a horizontal shaft v-twin I slap that in her/him and do a custom exhaust on her/him.”
And I’m sorry this is the only picture I have currently should’ve took some earlier when I was there. If anyone knows of or has any of the parts I stated above please let me know please and thank you.
MightyRaze, Brianator, Nevadablue, MN mudder and FatMike like this post
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Age : 49 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 15675 Posts : 10987 Location : Oklahoma
1973/1974 Sears ST/16. That Tecumseh engine if it does not work, probably best to get a new engine for it as parts are $$$. Also, that engine weighs well over a hundred lbs. Don't hurt yourself. Tractor is very cool and sturdy. Biggest frame weakness is where the engine plate bolts to the back 2/3 transaxle section. (3 bolts) Sometimes that section holds dirt and rusts through if left out all the time. Nose cones.... hmm. Ebay is the best option but can be pretty $$. Google fixing Sears Suburban Nosecone. Looks like you may have enough there to fix it? (There are some good examples over at mytractorforum) Or do you just need some expanded metal? If so check out Lowes or tractor supply. Maybe some scrap metal off something with expanded metal?
Pro tip, when you change the oil in the Roper 633a transaxle. Pour it in though the shifter. (4 bolts) don't use the fill tube. 5 qts 30 weight non detergent. You can find it at Tractor supply. I've even used 5qts 30W bar and chain oil.
Cool find! I have 2.
PROJECTS: Marshal ........................93 Craftsman GT6000 Red Bandit ...................72 Wheel Horse Raider 12 Dirty Rat........................77 Sears Suburban Bowser...........................01 Murray Widebody LT The Green Machine ....1990 Craftsman II GT18 Other projects
That's a nice-looking tractor! I also got one with a suburban 12 hood and grill and a 14 hp Kohler. like mighty said that nose cone/grill looks like it might have enough to fix it. I think a v-twin in there would be pretty dang cool!
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Austin_Gore Member
Age : 20 Join date : 2019-09-05 Points : 2018 Posts : 93 Location : Fayetteville, Tn
The beautiful thing about fiberglass is it's fairly easy to work with! If you ran some sheetmetal along the inside edge and riveted it from the outside in you could make a patch(es) to fill any missing pieces (if there are any) then lay a full sheet all the way across on the outside then on the inside over the sheetmetal and past it a little and it would end up being stronger than stock. With some sanding and filling and smoothing on the outside noone would suspect it was broken after it's painted, trust me, I've basically rebuilt things in this manner including a broken a$$ canoe! Lol.
Fronts yes. Stock. The tires are 19x7x8. Rear no, not stock.
When you get the chance show us the break. Like mentioned. The bottom second on mine was busted, but I put in a piece of metal and screwed it in, bondo'd it to hide. Can't tell today unless you open the hood and look. Or.. get close enough to tell my bad bondo job. LOL
PROJECTS: Marshal ........................93 Craftsman GT6000 Red Bandit ...................72 Wheel Horse Raider 12 Dirty Rat........................77 Sears Suburban Bowser...........................01 Murray Widebody LT The Green Machine ....1990 Craftsman II GT18 Other projects
The beautiful thing about fiberglass is it's fairly easy to work with! If you ran some sheetmetal along the inside edge and riveted it from the outside in you could make a patch(es) to fill any missing pieces (if there are any) then lay a full sheet all the way across on the outside then on the inside over the sheetmetal and past it a little and it would end up being stronger than stock. With some sanding and filling and smoothing on the outside noone would suspect it was broken after it's painted, trust me, I've basically rebuilt things in this manner including a broken a$$ canoe! Lol.
Sanding and filling being important, my grandpa bought a tractor with a riveted hood patch, looked stupid as heck. Oh, and by the way, cool tractor man!