OFF-Topic Anything 2022

dang its been a minute got hit with too much to do, a job, and a heat wave

Hey, what's going on guys?

Nothing much.

Just chillin' man, you?

Brianator wrote:

Just chillin' man, you?

Not chillin here... Here be melting.  LOL

Brianator wrote:

Just chillin' man, you?

I've been gone the last couple of weeks, just got back yesterday, what's happening with the BO?

TechnoChicken wrote:

I've been gone the last couple of weeks, just got back yesterday, what's happening with the BO?

Oh cool, where'd you go?!

Whats happening with with Build Off... that is the question isn't it! Lol. Well, @MightyRaze and my entries are "complete" by build off standards but he's still picking away at the Dirty Rat and I'm going to be getting back to work on the Mud Duck soon, I haven't met my goals yet.

@Rustbucket Garage is in gear getting work done on White Lightning and that's about it, everyone else has dropped off the map for now but hopefully some get back to work soon!

It's been awful quiet around here lately....

Id like to get back to work on my dragster i collected enough parts to hopefully finish it and its buried under a pile of wood right now. my l1000 project the engine has a mystery issue it wont start at all for some reason.and i got my hands on a 100$ pitbike and a 100$ honda recon and the honda runs! It rips too

Budget_gokart wrote:

Id like to get back to work on my dragster i collected enough parts to hopefully finish it my l1000 project the engine has a mystery issue it wont start at all for some reason

Give us details dude! What kind of engine and what's the model number? Send some pics of it and the wiring too, I'll do my best to help.

Yep! We'll see what we can do. I know it has been stated over and over...

- Spark
- Fuel
- Compression

Next I would check the flywheel key.

The odd thing is there isnt a single issue with the engine its a 19hp briggs oppy and it ran great i drove it on a trailer the day before i was going to haspin acres. The next morning it just cranked. I checked air fuel spark compression the flywheel key the carburator the only thing i didnt check is rings because the cyl wall looked good. Or theres also a chance the cam jumped timing but i havent had time to diagnose further im just gonna throw a 20hp vtwin briggs i got for free on it and repair the oppy for the dragster

Gotta hate it when that happens eh!? Did you check to make sure the spark plugs are actaully getting wet? That has a fuel pump right? Maybe something there (even a cracked pulse line)?

I straight up dumped fresh gas in the carb and i didnt get as much as a backfire

I don't know what to tell ya then if you've tested everything and no go, gonna have to tear it down I guess!

In my experience, mystery issues on Oppys are usually the coil or something else in ignition. When I’m in doubt I will always swap a different coil on. Just because a coil has spark doesn’t mean it’s acting right.

What Rich said. Also, I had an oppy do something similar and it turned out to be a cracked spark plug in the porcelain. Grounded it out while in the head but worked fine outside while checking spark. Those fire both at the same time. If one is grounded out, they both fail.

Thought you guys might like to see some pictures of the cave my friends and I have been exploring. The opening opened up on a hill on my friends property back about 6 months ago. All in all I think the cave is probably over a mile long and not much more than 1-200ft deep. There are a few tight passages, definitely not for the claustrophobic. Passages connect two large rooms(a few hundred feet apart, which feels like a mile to crawl) one is an area about a school bus length in length and width and about the same high. The other is more the size of a 3 story house and has a large pile of rubble in the center where the ceiling once collapsed. It’s hard to photograph the large rooms because of the darkness, but here’s some snaps various parts of the cave to give you a feel of it.






These pictures are of the very back of the cave(at least one dead end of it). Here the mud is covered in what we believe to be sulfur. We brought respirators for this section.


There is a creek constantly flowing at the back of this cave. It basically flows out of one hole and into another.




This cave is only a few miles from mammoth cave. We were almost expecting to find a connection to it, but we haven’t.

Pretty cool!


Got a couple OHV singles (Briggs) tracked down for $75.  Pickup tomorrow afternoon.

MightyRaze wrote:

Pretty cool!


Got a couple OHV singles (Briggs) tracked down for $75.  Pickup tomorrow afternoon.

Ayyyy! It’s about time… glad you got a deal!

You ain't kidding @Murraymountain.  

The one, 16hp, is complete, said it ran well.  (Plastic shroud) It appears to need a good carb clean.  It's a bit gummy. - $50   

The other, 14.5, said it had govenor issues (note the bolt holding it in place).  Also, it is missing a carb but everything else is there.  It ran, before they stole the carb. - $25

They were moving and wanted them gone.




The plan, get the 14.5 running and put it on Bowser.  The other, just be sure it runs then store it for my main mower due to its age and engine starting to smoke.  The V-twin I put on bowser has other issues that I fear may be catastrophic.  Something is amiss there I can't seem to put a finger on.

So, I popped the sump off the one with the governor issue.   @Murraymountain I know you are familiar with these, anyone else as well.  The governor gear and plunger are fine.  It appears that the foot on the governor rod on the inside has come loose from its pressed-on connection.  Please correct me if I am wrong, but I am sure that internal foot on the plunger is not supposed to be loose on the rod. Basically, I can hold the plunger foot and rotate the rod.  Certain they should be solid together.

Arrow shows where it is loose.  Also, you can see the busted off bolt.  Not by me, so this has easily been inside of before.  Interestingly enough, it was only finger tight.



So... 2 ways to get that out to fix.

1. Press the Governor crank bushing out of the block risking breaking it and the block.  - Uh no.
   
2. Disassemble most of the engine to get the crank and the counterweight out of the way so I can slide it in. - Uh no again!
   

So, I have come up with another way to maybe fix it.  Get me a cloth rag, poke a hole in it.  Damp the cloth, push the governor rod though the hole in the rag and tack weld it back together.

To make space you should only have to remove the cam gear on the crank, remove the one bolt for the balancer half to remove it and you'll have lots of space to work.

I would agree the governor arm inside should be solid with the rod, I've never been into one the exact same as yours but my old flattys governor arm(s) seem to be one piece bent/stamped/machined. You got this man!

Durh..... Not sure why I was thinking the balancer was 1 piece. LOL Don't happen to know the torque specs on that bolt? Then again, google is my friend.

Tighten it until it snaps then back it off a quarter turn. Lol. There's no specs listed on the B&S torque/clearance chart, a 1/4" bolt, about 4" long and in aluminum... I do it by feel but would think 10-13ft/lbs sounds about right

In case anyone wonders... I found a few places that say that screw is 115 in lbs. I think I can safely and quickly tack it in place pretty fast. No need to break it down I do not think.

115 inch pounds = 9.58 foot pounds so I think I guessed that pretty well eh!?