(2001) Murray Widebody LT - Bowser

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Ah, ok, figured you’d have gone to an 820.

Yeah, splitting the case is whatever, I just hate having to scrape out all the silicone to seal it back up.

I think this weekend, the 820 is coming out of Li'l Red and into Bowser.  I don't hardly get Red out anymore.

The MST205 I fear has done the same thing as the 206 did and shattered that brass bearing on the brake.  Won't know till later.  I don't feel like busting it open again to find out right away.  I'll just stick the mst in Red.

The 205 has been removed.  It's really hot out.  I'll need to swap Red Bandit and Li'l Red later today in the garage.  I really need a shop fan.  

Decided to work in 15 minute intervals from time to time. Really like to get this done.





I guess at this point I am almost half way. Need to swap input pulleys and call it good for re-install.

Took me a while but I went through every page.  Nice build here.  I have the same Murray but with a vari-drive.  Thinking of doing something with it at a later date.  

Question for you.  Did you make any changes to the front axle?  Pivot, weld on plates, etc...

Thx
Torgo

@torgo This tractor, I did not do any mods to the front axle.  It is still stock.

The 820 is now installed!





With the 820, she is a bit wider.  If an issue, I can easily bring it in with some spacers and a lock collar.

Swap is done. Mostly, need new lug studs in the MST but I have at least 2 lugnuts in each side for now.

Anyways...

YES! To go from a mower with no brakes to a mower still with NO BRAKES.... Looks like the pucks are worn out. Time for new or make new. See what I have. That and I may look into making a new brake rod that is more "solid". The old Murray one is a little too weak in the spring.

I still think you should try a drum brake!

I dunno...

Cut a couple holes in the floorboard and Flintstone that bad boy

I have come to the conclusion that MST and Peerless 820 brakes are no more than parking brakes.  Actual stopping isn't happening.  New pucks work, if I adjust the brake half engaged.  I turned my transaxle disk brake blue to heat and had it smoking.  Still didn't stop.  Going to think about other ideas.  Maybe a yerf dog brake on the rear.

Mutts stock brakes would lock up the wheels no problem. I used chunks of old car brake pad and they still wore out pretty quick. That’s most of the reason I went away from the stock brakes. I did however have a 2ft long lever with a crazy amount of mechanical advantage, not a clutch brake

Yeah, I'm planning splitting the brake and clutch.  Honestly, it could make it safer as you can continue to brake on a hill should you stall and left off the clutch safely without rollback.  Kind of like a hill-hold.  My daughter says she thinks she could handle it fine.

I think the way Murray does brakes is just horrible. One thin spring-rod. I think it gives too much and allows the brakes to give too much.

The spring on the rod is a terrible design on any tractor. Gotta have a hard pull to really make them stop.

SO... did a little test tonight.

I ziptied the spring on that silly rod...  and it worked PERFECTLY!  Like it was meant to work.  I locked them up going a little fast backward and almost flipped the tractor backward.  Came back to the garage hot and it again locked them up GOOD.

Then again, it was designed for 18 inch tall tires going 1-5 MPH.  Not 22's going 10+.

My stock brake locked up 26s! Lot of mechanical advantage with a trans brake.

I figured out the issue!!!  The Murray brake rod for MST is about 1/2 inch too long for an 820.  I have another brake rod in my parts pile.  Shortened it the 1/2 inch and now I can lock them up on asphalt doing 25mph.

I now have good brakes...  and good steering on Bowser.  Outside the push steer but that is the product of a locked rear end.

As an added Bonus...