Hillbilly Offroading "General Lee" Jacobsen Homelite Mud Mower [2019 Build-Off Entry] [Participant]

@MightyRaze thanks. That's quite simple. I've misplaced the instructions.

What a nightmare!

Don't wreck your back lifting.

Sparking ground looks to be arching over the rust.  Maybe clean the plug and try again?

@MightyRaze I'll let you in on a little secret I dont ever tell anyone. My back has been screwed up since end of summer of 2018. I got physical therapy on a regular basis again because it's back and been dealing with my SSI joint popping in/out causing pain with difficulty walking sometimes. Cant get any worse. At least hope not.

I did try and cleaned the terminals after than but didn't help so I junked it. Was able to find a new one for $15. $15 a good deal?

Sounds reasonable.

Finally able to get this thing out of the shed.

Yesterday I was able to paint all the linkages yesterday. All is installed. It looks like all the pulleys lined up. I had a feeling the 2" lift blocks was a ¼ to ½ to tall. All of the Dixie horns gotta go. Not enough space. Parking brake gave me a heck of a time. Its wrong on the diagrams. I install to backwards from what it was telling me and BINGO.



Stock double pulley clutch just with newer steel pulleys from a John John Deere LT150.



I had forgotten this tractor had the hi/low linkage also. I swear I scraped it 2 years ago lol. Kept scratching my head trying to figure out with that one was for.



Found a stiffer spring.



The stock brake are for the tractor that hooked up to the old Foote worked in the 820 that's lowered 2 inches. Didn't even have to adjust the length of the linkage.



Wish they could have figured out a way to use one horn instead of 5.

Got 2 new pulleys off of a murray widebody gt. One is to reroute the belt around the shifter and one for putting more belt around the front of the engine pulley. All I need not is a 7" pulley for the engine and belt keepers for the transaxle then drive system is complete.

Picked up some parts. 98" kevlar belt, 1"hub and 7" pulley. Pulley is half inch to large so got to take that back along with belt. Did however reroute the belt around shifter to save time installing belts. Started designing shifter. Its gonna be interesting since the shifter input shaft is offset from center of transaxle causing a offset shift pattern that wont end up being a nice centered shift patterning the middle of frame between legs. Oh yeah cleaned up the back end cut of that rectangular. Moved it back a inch and recut it. Was hard due to it's under the fenders a little.

I'm excited to see you complete this and drive it! Keep up the good work!

@MightyRaze thanks! Long time coming. It's been in my possession for 1year 9months

@Hillbilly Offroading Think of it as quality job and not a slap together job!

@MightyRaze but theres so much I could have done to the rust problem underneath the battery and gas tank. That should all be cut out then replaced. May do that in the future. Gotta figure out still what to do with the busted up grill piece.

Just put some reinforcements down in the hood to fix it like you'd do an LT1000.

@Murraymountain have any photos of that being done?

Not to jack the thread but I’m also interested in seeing how to do that

@yeethaw your not at all jacking the thread. Doesn't bother me one bit.

Sure. I don't think I made much sense but hopefully this helps a little bit...

Here's some pics...

This is the one I had to fix. They normally break at the mounts...




This is how a stock one would look...




Now I believe yall's situation looks a little more like this...



Honestly, on a tractor I was gonna sell, I would use flat steel on the backside of the grille and bolt the cracked pieces together, but I'm keeping this one so I used zip ties. Same concept though. Drill to holes, put 2 bolts through with one on each side and a plate behind them to bring the two cracked pieces back together.



That's probably what you'll need to do @yeethaw.

As for the Jacobsen, with how well built it is, and being that the grille already looks to be made out of fiberglass, I'd just re-fiberglass it.

Hope that helps.

@Murraymountain ah makes much more sense now. Thank you!

I hate to say (stretch) but the only way this thing will be safe to ride because of its height is if I stretch the wheel base and yes eventually widen the stance. Thoughts about it? I'm actually digging the look with this body style.

Man, that is a tall ride!

@MightyRaze yes sir 8" taller than stock height. This wasn't the plan to have it this big but the 820 with the taller input shaft is what caused this all to happen.

Maybe drop the footboards some. Might seem more stable sitting on it a little differently.

prancstaman wrote:

Maybe drop the footboards some. Might seem more stable sitting on it a little differently.

but I would have to fabricate new front, side, and rear footboard mounts, redesign the brake leaver so its lower for your foot to reach it, and have to find something longer to cover gap between fenders and the footboards.

When the peerless 820 got installed I had to drop it causing the tires not to be centered so the fenders have been moved forward probably 2.5" then lifted 2" to clear 26s.

Welp I through on the high back seat then that little thing. Feels safer lol. What yall think about the look of the tractor with it? Welded up the 6" engine pulley. Through it on and the 96" belt. Realised that my 2" lift blocks are to tall. I'll need to cut off a ½ to raise the trans for pulleys to line up. Ill get pics later about that stuff. Internet wont allow me to upload the photos.