Ol' Sears - 1975 Sears Suburban ST/16

The duro's are nice, but they are starting to rub a bit.  Especially when the tires build up dirt!

neat I like the Duros on that tractor I have a 1974 sears st 16 with a 14 hp Kohler swap and a 69 12 hood and grill.

I'd love to find an old Kohler or Briggs to put in this tractor.  The clone 13hp is nice, but old cast iron is cool.

yes, the 14hp Kohler is an absolute monster in the tractor in 1st gear low it can pull about anything. I am a big fan of the Tecumseh singles though.

The 16hp Tecumseh it had blew up a few too many times.  Last time did it in.  Engine scrapped.  I think I have the carb somewhere in a bucket and I turned the cowl into a clock.

That's really cool I have wanting to make one for in my shop for a while after watching taryl fixes all make one on youtube.

Got the rear tires changed out.  I let my daughter do it.  She seemed to enjoy doing it.   I also felt pretty bad that I put the old tractor away last winter pretty darn dirty.



I installed the mower deck mule on the tractor.  I have decided to semi-retire Thor.  It has issues that I just don't feel like tackling at this time.



I also moved the seat from Kal over to Grandpa.  Looks much better on 'em.



Once I am done with Red, I plan on bringing Grandpa back into the garage and it's time for possibly a full tear down, clean, and repaint.

I am also thinking of replacing the fronts with a more aggressive tire.  I bought this engine back in Feb 2015.  It's been a decent engine, but I do think failure is a few years away.  I would LOVE to replace it with an old cast iron 15hp briggs, lightly modded, but we know I'm not going to find that.  I will continue to run what I have, but I am pretty sure the charging stator is toast, (will check on breakdown) and I am not sure what is going on, but the rocker on the engine doesn't seem to be quite right to me.  I could be wrong.  If I knew what I do today when I was restoring this old tractor.... I would have gone with a 420 Hemi Predator instead of the 420 Lifan.  This one was suppose to have to bigger charging stator, but I think I got snookered.

I also plan on replacing the old incandescents with LED replacements.

Thoughts of the day...

Restore looking close to original again, or go custom with the paint.

Little video update!

MN mudder wrote:

That's really cool I have wanting to make one for in my shop for a while after watching taryl fixes all make one on youtube.

He is a great guy, and has a great shop, He is a helpful guy, I recently found out he had a youtube channel, I knew him for a few years lol, he helped me with carb work on my first mini bike and has repaired my grandpas lawn mower a few times, great guy.

not to thread jack, but are the teeth that he has in the videos real?

No, those are fake teeth, he sells them on his store, the link is on his youtube channel. He also doesnt talk like he does in the video

@MightyRaze Those old tires were some cool ones liked those better, but for an engine I think a vanguard or one of those new 196cc mini diesels would be a cools swap.

Well, gave the tractor a bath that it needed from last year.



In the process I hit it pretty hard with high pressure to knock off some of the newer paint and bring up the original in places.  

Going to repaint the hood an almond color.  That would better match original, I think.



I went with a yellow before.  I think the original was closer to a tan?



I currently have about a half inch lift on the engine with nuts.  It has worked well for me 6 years.  I think I will go ahead with a 1-inch lift with some square tube in the future, I think.



I did go ahead with one upgrade.  I put the LED PAR36 headlights from Kal on.




Hardest part of disassembly is done.  Now to try and do a little here and there until my back lets me do more than a little.



Man, I hate when pix upload upside down.  I'll fix that later. "FIXED"

That is a good looking tractor.

I may have to use those headlights on my suburban right now it has none. before it destroyed the harness It had cheap trailer-led running lights they worked all right but weren't very bright.

Teardown has begun!  Next will be the engine removal.  Not sure when I will have time for that as the rest of the week after work is going to be busy!

My suburban is a rot bucket what can i do to get my stuck on steering wheel off i wanna stick a 20hp kholer vtwin in it

Budget_gokart wrote:

My suburban is a rot bucket what can i do to get my stuck on steering wheel off i wanna stick a 20hp kholer vtwin in it

Soak a rag in transmission oil and leave it where it needs to be to let the oil soak in and loosen things up, that's step 1 and hopefully as far as you need to go!  Lol


That's a beauty tractor @MightyRaze!

Budget_gokart wrote:

My suburban is a rot bucket what can i do to get my stuck on steering wheel off i wanna stick a 20hp kholer vtwin in it

Like said soak it. First time I got it off 6? Years ago. I did for a week. Also heat carefully. Then I drilled some well placed holes around the shaft. Soaked… I finally took a chisel and cut a notch that freed the steering wheel. It still works and none of the mods were done at the key way. Lots of patience. This time it came right off due to use of anti seize.

OK, lots of thoughts and a little planning.  Going to lift the engine just a little bit more.  Go from one nut to 3/4 inch.  



Also, I'm going to make an engine mount that I can attach to the tractor engine plate (removable) with a set of fixed bolts going "up" that I can set the engine over for easier attachment.



I'm toying with an idea to use an old propane bottle as a muffler for the engine.  (@Doc Sprocket style)  I already have one eradicated of propane filled with water to cut into.



I may take this opportunity to maybe replace some axle seals. and maybe the shifter boot.

In the process of tear down, I have found the reason for drag in the rear.  I always thought it was extra thick brake pad.  No, there is a bolt self-clearing into the brake drum it would appear.  I have found that some well-placed nuts welded inside the frame would be nice for reassembly.



This is how it will be for a bit while I create the new engine mount.

Hmm... sat out in the garage this cold afternoon thinking about the engine, engine spacer I was going to create and fitment of the engine.  Met with several roadblocks and do I really need to do this or that?

I had originally wanted to eliminate the "spacer" but I think that was just a dream.  Looks like at most if I moved the engine back, I could only gain 1 inch before running into the clutch bracket.  Not sure if that is what is needed.

Edit: We'll see what I can figure out!

Hard to tell when not looking at stuff in person but it doesn't look like a spacer would be needed? I guess you had it spaced for some reason though...

Brianator wrote:

Hard to tell when not looking at stuff in person but it doesn't look like a spacer would be needed? I guess you had it spaced for some reason though...

I spaced it so I didn't have to cut my lower grill. I'm trying to keep from chopping as much as possible.

Pic from 5yrs ago.

OK guys.... I'm losing steam and motivation on the refresh.  It will get done; I'll probably just need a break.  I am currently prepping the removal of the transaxle.  I used to be able to do that in like an hr or less.  I'm on day 3.  Not getting down on the ground to work on it has a lot to do with it.  I did finally got that high/low pin out that has been broken the past 5 years.  LOL I figure a bolt here and a bolt there each day will win this race right now.

Poor Sears is hanging like fresh kill....

I do have a list that I would like to perform now while breaking this down.

• proper remote choke solution for the 389.  $30 amazon or anywhere on the web
  
• couple welded in bolts for fenders.
  
• possibly remove the hood spacer?
  
• raise engine a bit
  
• remote fuel tank, prefer back under seat.
  
• more to come