[Withdraw]Jeremiah's Godzilla Mud-Terrain Tractor [2019 Build-Off Entry]

@MightyRaze Hey if the price is right it can be yours. Over night shipping

Boy, you're not screwing around with the rear tires!! Hahaha.

Should look good and perform even better!

@AllisKidD21 lol preciate it. That's one way to put it. People are always bashing vampires. The Kenda executioner's and ITP mudlites are way better than vampires but the people that say that are the people that has never ran a vampire day in their life. I hope they outperform their looks.

SO JEALOUS!!!

Well I have discovered that when I put 24x9x10 vampires on the front I'm going to need a bigger rear lift then what I was thinking to make the tractor set level. Come to find out the 23" and 16" turf tires aren't the true size that is stated. There actually 21¾" and 15". That's screwed up all of my measurements. At least I know that the 27s are going to be a true 27" and the 24s are going to be true 24". It's actually kind of hard to get up on the seat now. 5" lift now because a 2" lift is definitely not enough.

I would just lift the fenders & move them out a bit so they would barely clear the seat & raise the seat a tiny bit

Way Less Work!

H difficult is it to lift the rear end?? Driveshaft or Pulley?? H about the shifters n stuff?

Jeremiah R. Cooper wrote:

Well I have discovered that when I put 24x9x10 vampires on the front I'm going to need a bigger rear lift then what I was thinking to make the tractor set level. Come to find out the 23" and 16" turf tires aren't the true size that is stated. There actually 21¾" and 15". That's screwed up all of my measurements. At least I know that the 27s are going to be a true 27" and the  24s are going to be true 24". It's actually kind of hard to get up on the seat now. 5" lift now because a 2" lift is definitely not enough.

This looks awesome!

@SebastianAlbrecht those tires will clear the fenders lol. That's not what I'm worried about. What I'm worried about is killing myself because all the terrain around here up in the mountains is steep. It would be all good if I was running 20 inch fronts but I'm not. With 24s frame is going to be nowhere near level that's going to make it flip backwards a lot. Yes it's easier but I want it to be safe. I'm not a fan of the easy way out because eventually it's gonna bit someone in the rear.

@SebastianAlbrecht well with the design of how the transaxle bolts to the frame all I need is like lift blocks. There's like two different frames. Transaxle bolts to the hitch plate frame. The hits bike frame is bolted to the garden tractor frame. I think I can put a lift block in between the hitch plate frame and the tractor frame. The tractor is shaft driven it goes back to a 90-degree gearbox and then on the side of the gear box that has a belt that goes straight down to the transaxle. The only thing there is to have to buy a longer belt once a transaxle gets dropped whatever height it's going to be. The shifter I just have to cut it in a certain spot and weld a straight extension. Brake setup on this machine is different then most because the frame isn't straight. In the middle of the frame it actually goes up and then back down so there is a metal bars about a foot long the Gators from above the top of the transaxle straight down to the side of the transaxle where the break is. I think I'm going to just replace it with the longer one or cut it in a certain spot and put an extension in it. A lot of work cut out. I understand your concerns. Will just have to see if it make or break.

@TheBeal thank you sir

Jeremiah R. Cooper wrote:

@SebastianAlbrecht well with the design of how the transaxle bolts to the frame all I need is like lift blocks. There's like two different frames. Transaxle bolts to the hitch plate frame. The hits bike frame is bolted to the garden tractor frame. I think I can put a lift block in between the hitch plate frame and the tractor frame. The tractor is shaft driven it goes back to a 90-degree gearbox and then on the side of the gear box that has a belt that goes straight down to the transaxle. The only thing there is to have to buy a longer belt once a transaxle gets dropped whatever height it's going to be. The shifter I just have to cut it in a certain spot and weld a straight extension. Brake setup on this machine is different then most because the frame isn't straight. In the middle of the frame it actually goes up and then back down so there is a metal bars about a foot long the Gators from above the top of the transaxle straight down to the side of the transaxle where the break is. I think I'm going to just replace it with the longer one or cut it in a certain spot and put an extension in it. A lot of work cut out. I understand your concerns. Will just have to see if it make or break.

well then do it!

@SebastianAlbrecht I am bud!

Well I have one rim ready to be painted. The one side of that rim had almost mint condition paint so I just rough ended up a little bit. The other side of that rim was rusty so the paint flake off really good. Inside the rim cleaned up well. Once I prep the second rim to be painted I'm going to paint them both black.

I can't wait to get the tires mounted and the Chevy dog dish hubcaps bolted on like wheel weights would be mounted. I think what I'm going to do now is try to match the blue it's on the Chevy emblem and paint the tractor that blue. If I can't find a shade of blue that's close to that Chevy emblem I'm going to repaint the Chevy emblem. I love how they are aged. I will not be restoring them.

I will paint the inside black because it's extremely Rusty but the outside with the graphics I'm just going to clear coat it. I love my vintage antiques. Who else here collecting antiques?

Time to see if the old girl will run. I have no clue when the last time it ran. The owner before me bought it off of the auction house. The owner before that had it stored in the back of a barn for years. So who knows when the last time this thing ran. May will make it a year that I've owned it.

Good luck getting the ol' Briggs to run!!

The updraft carbs on them can be real finicky buggers sometimes, but they are nice engines for sure!

@AllisKidD21 I'll need all the luck I can get. Oh boy didn't know they can be like that. Thanks they definitely seam to be good engines.

Looks Great!

Thanks Sebastian! In person it got that black sharpie look. The spray paint is from Ace Hardware. It's a paint + primer can so it should hold up better the Walmart spray paint.

Painting next to the heat source so that the paint actually dries...love it !

@Dustin M. Yes sir lol. The spray can and rim was about 25°F so I brought them in from the shed to warm up for a hour before painting.