Hay People, I'll be covering the top of the gearbox in this post. This will cover the shifter fork hole and shifter fork holder inside the case in the gearbox, the main 2 shafts on where they are at in the cases, and the bolt pattern on top of the gearbox that mounts the hand shifter brackets. I picked out 7 pics for this to show how I did it. The variation thing hit again and I picked out the pics to support the blueprints measurements. The pics that are not showing the measurements in the blueprints are off from a couple .001" to around .020". So I made an educated guess on what the original blueprint was and then decided what my blueprint will be. With my luck I'm sure I am wrong on what I think the original blueprint is but this is what mine will be and I think it works.
Here are the blueprints.
I'll start off the pics with the main shafts (counter shaft and shifter/brake shaft). Everything is based off these 2 shafts on where they are in the cases, along with the bushings, the bushing bores, and the bushing stops that hold the bushings in place when the gearbox is together. These shafts are spaced 2.500" apart in the middle of the gearbox. I first measured between the shafts. Next measured the bushings outside diameter and divided them in half. Then added the two half bushing measurements and the space between to get the distance from the center of one shaft to the center of the other shaft. Math is, .375" + 1.750" + .375" = 2.500"
To confirm the distance between the shafts, I measure the outside's of the bushings and subtract two half bushings and get the same answer of 2.500". Math is, 3.250" - .375" -.375" = 2.500"
Moving onto the hand shifter mounting boltholes on the top half of the case. The bolt pattern is centered on the top half of the case and are over the 2 main shafts. Which leaves the pattern itself of the bolts. From front to back of the case, the spacing of the 2 bolts on one side is 2.501", and is what I put in the blueprint. I measured the 2 bolts on the other side and the measurement was 2.500", I came up with this number when I was confirming things after I already wrote the other measurement of 2.501" in the blueprint. Math is, .155" (half of 1 bolt) + 2.191" (caliper reading) + .155" (half of 1 bolt)= 2.501"
Next is how wide the bolt pattern is. I came up with 4.750" and put this in the blueprints. The other set of bolts measured 4.730" but thought this was a mishap on a production unit and left it out of the blueprint. So my blueprint says that both rows of bolts are 4.750" wide, which I believe to be on the original blueprint and is on mine also. Math is, .155" (half of 1 bolt) + 4.443" (caliper reading) + .155" half of 1 bolt) = 4.753". I made a call and made it to be the measurement of 4.750"
This next part I been trying to get out the way for a while but couldn't because other info was not posted yet. Now the other info is posted I can post this little tid bit of info. This would be the shifter fork hole in the top part of the case and the shifter fork holder inside the case on the bottom half on the floor. I find where this hole is off of the hand shifter mounting bolthole pattern that I just covered, since this bolt hole pattern is based off the main shafts figured it would work fine for finding where the shifter fork hole and holder is. I had to make a jig to do the measuring for this part. The hole in the top half of the case is .504" so I made the jig to fit snug in the hole so it would be straight up. Had to hand sand it for a half hour to fit how I wanted it to fit. I measure from the side to the jig. The math is a headache for this one. It's the caliper reading minus the ruler width, minus half of 1 bolt, plus half of the jig. Math is, 2.374" (caliper reading) - 1.008" (ruler width) - .155" (half of 1 bolt) + .312" (half of jig diameter) = 1.523"
Now front to back of the hole. This is a bigger headache because I give the measurement in the blueprint going the other way from the pic. This just adds to a complicated equation. But this is how I did it, it was late when I did this part and half asleep too, and to the life of me I can't figure out why I did it like this one, LOL. So, to do this, it's the same equation as above, then the bolt pattern from front to back minus the answer, for it to match the blueprint. Math is, 1.574 (caliper reading) - 1.008" (ruler width) - .155" (half of 1 bolt) + .312" (half of jig) = .723". Then for the answer to match the blueprint, it's the bolt pattern from front to back for the hand shifter bolt pattern minus the answer = 1.777". So rest of math is, 2.500" - .723" = 1.777". I used the bolt pattern for the hand shifter as 2.500 to make the math a little simpler.
Ima stop here. The only thing I need to post is the shifter fork blueprint and have not drawn it up yet. So it will be a while for that. After the shifter fork will be the next step and I don't quite know what that will be yet.
Hay People, I finished up the shifter fork blueprint. That will be this post and then maybe one more post on this gearbox like an overview thing. I don't think I will be posting a download link because there isn't one for an upload here to download for this forum. I might look into finding another site for the upload then supply a link here for the download but I really don't like that idea and probably won't happen. If you want a copy of the blueprints, you can just use the snipping tool on your computer to get a copy of the blueprints in this post.
OK, blueprints for the shifter rod fork, with a blueprint of the shifter fan with the detents. I did not put the neutral safety switch hole in the shifter fan because if you are making your own case for racing then you would most likely not use the switch anyways. Seems like everybody puts there vent there anyways in a stock case. Shifter fork side view Shifter fan top view
Now for the pics. I won't be showing any pics of measurements for the shifter fork, pretty much just on the angles for the detents where the ball fits into.
Placement of the detents. Note the 2 flat spots on the rod end where the shifter bracket from outside the case fits onto the shaft, for a stock shifter fork the flat spots face 2nd gear detent. Same with the shifter fork which is just below 2nd gear detent. Knowing this lines up every part on the shifter fork if building one from scratch and using a stock case.
The next series of pics show how I came up with the angles. Figure I needed to put an imprint onto a piece of paper and use a protractor to get the angles. The angle lines start from the center of the rod and extend to the lowest part of the detents or the center of the detents. Here is what I used. I draw a 1/2 inch circle on the paper and cut it out so it slides down onto the shaft.
I slide the paper down onto the shaft and hold the paper to the fan. I rubbed some dirt on my finger and while holding the paper to the fan I rubbed the paper over the edge of the fan. This makes an imprint onto the paper and the dirty finger draws an outline onto the paper at the same time.
I need to replace the hole I cut out. I cut a square out of the corner and put the square on a piece of tape to cover the hole from the back side. I need to draw on it, a center mark for the protractor. Also place the protractor over the hole to center it, I'm sure it is pretty close and the angles would only be off by a fraction of a degree for this part. Then mark places on the paper to line up the protractor for later. Then place marks on the lowest part of the detents to be able to draw lines next.
I cover the cut out hole and lay the protractor back on the paper and line up the marks with the protractor, to find the center of the hole ( for the shifter rod). Then draw the lines in. Can see the angles pretty good after all this. Takes out the guess work. If by chance I am off on the angles then it would be no more then 1/2 of a degree.
That's pretty much it. Everything else is straight forward on the measuring of the shifter fork.
Made a couple pics of the shifter fork to point out why it is shaped the way it is.
This pic, note the red arrow, is pointing to a spot between the shifter fork and the counter shaft. The shifter fork is placed close to this shaft to where the steel plates making the fork needed to be clearanced so the fork don't make contact with the shaft (counter shaft) in any gear. The shifter would be in second gear and the prongs on the fork are off center of the bushing also. I actually didn't draw the shifter in place here. What I did was, when I drawn up the shifter by itself off to the side of the whole blueprint, I made a copy of the drawing and moved the copy over to this drawing and placed inside where it needed to go. It fit perfectly. Shows the end play as expected and everything is where it needed to be.
These next 2 pics are of the shifter fan in the top view of the case and the 2 shafts showing. I didn't do anything on where the hole would be for the detent ball and spring, but I figure if you are going all out and making your own case, there is enough info in my blueprints to figure out where to put the hole for the detent ball and spring. You can see in these pics also how close the shifter rod is to the counter shaft (red arrow) and why they made a clearance relief in the fork for it. There is a flat spot on the fan (red arrow) also and this is on the fan for the reverse gear position so the fan does not hit the side wall of the case. I did the same thing here also, I copied the shifter fan from the blueprint by itself, then spun it around to the angle I needed to place it in the top view of the case with the shafts showing too. I even copied the detent ball (red arrow) and placed it in the case also. Everything fit perfectly here also. Closeup.
2 more pics, then that is it. I figure if you are making a shifter fork and are worried about the angles on where the detents are then this should help. The detents are curved parts of a circle that when the ball fits in them they are set at a specific angle in a stock setup. I figure if you are making one from scratch or fixing one then instead of the partial circles for the detents on the fan use flat spots on the detents. That way the shift keys would be fully engaged into the gear and the shifter fan would still hold everything in gear but with a little play on the shifter. Would probably work on a stock shifter fan also by grinding the detents flat. Just an idea. Here are the pics on what I mean. The stock profile. The modified profile noted by the red lines.
That's it. Last post will be after I finish cleaning everything. Would like to point out a couple more things before I wrap this project up and move on to the next step. Remember, this is only a part of a whole project. I still need a working gearbox that can take alot of abuse and in stock form this 700 won't stand a chance. Plus I haven't decided if I will be using this design of a gearbox either. Later...........
Hay People, I'm finally done with this part. Got a few pics to wrap this up. Just pointing out a couple things, pretty much. Been working on this since November 11, 2018. But I might do it all again on another gearbox though, or just on a certain section of a transaxle for this project that is in the works. I'll keep this thread going with other projects too. I got a couple different transaxles for other projects I want to do also. Should be pretty neat stuff. Back to it for the final push.........
OK, got everything cleaned up, finally. Used diesel, carb cleaner and a brush. Just want to point out one or two last things, about the counter shaft and shifter/brake shaft. These to main shafts are centered around everything and if you are making your own case then this will be the workings on placement of these 2 shafts. But the counter shaft is the absolute main part of it all and everything even the shifter/brake shaft is positioned around this part. In the order of things, when making your own whatever, the counter shaft should be your starting point.
The order will go something like this: Counter shaft will place where the bushings go. The bushings on the counter shaft adjust end play and end play is adjusted by the spacers/washers. The vertical input is placed by where the counter shaft with the bushing are at by the bushing stops on the side walls of the case. The shifter/brake shaft is based off where the counter shaft is for proper mesh of the gears. The bushings and washers/spacers are placed by where the shifter/brake shaft is placed. The shifter fork is placed by the shifter/brake shaft with the arc of movement to engage the shift keys into every gear. If something needs to be moved for any reason in this order, then the parts after need to be moved also.
With this said, if you need to move the shift fork any in the case, then nothing else needs to be moved because this is at the end of the order of things. But if you need to move the shifter/brake shaft to adjust the mesh of the gears, then the shifter/brake shaft is moved by the bushing, then need to move the washers/spacers, then move the shifter fork by however much you moved the shifter/brake shaft.
OK, the final thing I want to show. This is pretty much about my gearbox only but has some credit to what was said above. I am curious about how much space is between the gear mesh on the main shafts. Is my gearbox mesh on the main gears loose, tight, or Johnny on the spot. I need a way to measure this but I have no round feeler gauges. Guess I'll have to make one. Best thing to use is a paper clip, LOL. I measure up a big paper clip and measures out to be .040". I take a hammer and pound a bevel on one end so if the .040" round end don't fit then the beveled end is used and then measured where the bevel stops at, to get the measurement of distance between the gears.
The proper way to measure gear mesh is by the tip of one gear on how far it goes into the two gears. But it can go one of two ways. You just can't pick one way out of the two ways to do it. To do it right, you do it both ways and the measurement that is smaller is the correct one to use. Pics will show what I mean on the two ways. Note where the paper clip is in the pics.
After checking the fitment of the paper clip both ways, appears that the gear teeth on the shifter/brake shaft is just a pinch smaller then the gear teeth on the counter shaft. This works great and figure I am right on .040" gap between the gear teeth on the smaller side of things. Knowing this means that the tooth profile is shorter on the shifter/brake shaft, probably by .001" to .002". Nothing wrong with that by any means. These gears on how big they are, like a clearance between .025" to .060" for a good, long lasting wear pattern on the gear teeth. My gearbox seems to be Johnny on the spot at .040". Good to know.
I measure the gap for the mesh on the rest of the gear sets and are all pretty much the same thing. Johnny on the spot, at around .040".
If there was anything wrong here then I would change the new blueprint accordingly for the new case and corresponding parts in there order of things as mentioned earlier. Pretty much it for the tech stuff. I took a bunch of snips of the blueprint for those who don't know how a CAD program works. I am pretty much a beginner with the stuff myself too and is way cool with what you can do with the programs. Even the free ones that you can download are pretty easy to work with the basic features of the program. There are even free 3D ones too, to play with.
Next, the blueprint as a whole, with the notes, and the individual parts.
This shows all the drawings, in there correct orientations, and placements in the gearbox.
This one is the same as the above one but with all the notes showing at once also. Too much info to show all at once, which makes being able to turn on and off parts good to do to understand the blueprint.
Bottom of the gearbox, where you mount it to the frame. This shows the mounting pattern, vertical input bore, bushings and shifter fork holder, all at once.
This is the top of the case, with the 2 main shafts, shifter bracket mounting holes, shifter fork hole, shifter fan, detent ball, and shift collar. You can see that the reverse gear is selected and how everything looks when this gear is selected.
This is the side view, the shifter fork, all outside mounting holes, bushings, vertical input bore with shaft, and washer/spacers with roller bearings.
Shift collar, side and front view.
Shifter rod fork, side and top view. And detent ball side view, or maybe it's the top view, I think it's the bottom view, or whatever view, LOL, it's the little blue round ball off to the right.
And this part of the project is finished. I kept the gearbox apart. Packed everything that needed to be packed up in ziplock bags with those little silicone packets in each bag so the parts don't rust or corrode. I put everything in a bucket, label the bucket for storage till needed. Finished, LOL.
On to the next step, no clue on what that will be but I'll figure it out after I get some sleep, LOL.
Mtdmudmower Member
Age : 42 Join date : 2019-02-03 Points : 2169 Posts : 39 Location : West Salem, Ohio
So I will admit I skipped over other replies die to legty-ness and it's late. So here is my take. The peerless trans you mentioned is popular amongst race mower guys. In the case you are looking for speed with little load outside of weight and rider it does work fine. Add sticky mud and other tricky high torque applications now your running into increased risks of your failure points you mentioned. So assuming your looking for the speed and off road tractor fun if say you could take the guts of a peerless and put them in either a modified or billet custom made case using ball bearings and ditching the grease filled contents for gear oil. There are two reasons for this. One the bushings and needle bearings can't handle higher room without wear and failure. The other is that with increased speed is increased heat. Grease does not dissipate heat well but gear oil does. Gear oil being more fluid natural also lubricates better preventing heat build up in the first place. There are several things to consider converting to gear oil as it isn't as simple as removing the grease. You need shaft seals and a good tight seal on the case halves. You will also need a top mounted vent or the seals will just puke oil out under load. The final consideration is the input shaft diameter. Generally all vertical shaft trans have around a 5/8 shaft. Under increased from factory speed back loaded from the wheels to the input shaft depending on the full throttle wheel speed this May not be Stout enough in mud. Can everything I've mentioned be done. Yep but at a cost. Sacrificing reverse most right angle gear boxes can handle more load when converted to gear oil fill verses grease. Generally speaking the right angle boxes have bigger input and output shafts than what you will find in any transaxle.
So I will admit I skipped over other replies die to legty-ness and it's late. So here is my take. The peerless trans you mentioned is popular amongst race mower guys. In the case you are looking for speed with little load outside of weight and rider it does work fine. Add sticky mud and other tricky high torque applications now your running into increased risks of your failure points you mentioned. So assuming your looking for the speed and off road tractor fun if say you could take the guts of a peerless and put them in either a modified or billet custom made case using ball bearings and ditching the grease filled contents for gear oil. There are two reasons for this. One the bushings and needle bearings can't handle higher room without wear and failure. The other is that with increased speed is increased heat. Grease does not dissipate heat well but gear oil does. Gear oil being more fluid natural also lubricates better preventing heat build up in the first place. There are several things to consider converting to gear oil as it isn't as simple as removing the grease. You need shaft seals and a good tight seal on the case halves. You will also need a top mounted vent or the seals will just puke oil out under load. The final consideration is the input shaft diameter. Generally all vertical shaft trans have around a 5/8 shaft. Under increased from factory speed back loaded from the wheels to the input shaft depending on the full throttle wheel speed this May not be Stout enough in mud. Can everything I've mentioned be done. Yep but at a cost. Sacrificing reverse most right angle gear boxes can handle more load when converted to gear oil fill verses grease. Generally speaking the right angle boxes have bigger input and output shafts than what you will find in any transaxle.
You got the right thinking there. Yup! But think out the box a little more. I need a gearbox for my 4 wheel drive mower that can take some really hard abuse, just because my wife will be driving the mower. Yup, she drives the truck like a bat out of hell, I'm the one who babies the truck, LOL. With that said, modding a gearbox seems like a good idea but just doing the mods that the racers do just won't work. I'm thinking of reengineering some parts too. This peerless 700 has the right parts so far and probably will be using it's parts for my gearbox. Plus I will be buying the material too, for what you mentioned about the case and bearings for the shafts, seals, and such. So far the Peerless 700 is winning. The blueprint of this whole gearbox seems to be simple and straight forward too.
So. plans are as follows, still pretty general plans so far, since I'm still looking for stuff. Need a set of beveled gears for the input that can take a 3/4 shaft atleast, for the vertical input. If I can't find a set, I will delete this part and make the input as horizontal input. If horizontal input, then the shaft will become a 5/8" keyed shaft and the gears will have to be modded to fit. The output shaft will be redesigned no matter what with a single output of 1". The case will be made from 1/4" or 1/2" billet aluminum pieces and bolted and pinned together. Making the case like the original 700 (with 2 halves bolted together) seems pointless. I just need a box to put the stuffing in. All shafts will have roller bearings. Will be using gear oil. Most likely will be cable shifted. And no previsions for a brake on the gearbox since the brakes will be on the axles of the mower. Nothing is final as for plans either. I do have access to a vertical mill and lathe to make parts, if I don't build these tools myself, LOL. This will take a minute too, got alot to do with work and home. we shall see.
Mtdmudmower Member
Age : 42 Join date : 2019-02-03 Points : 2169 Posts : 39 Location : West Salem, Ohio
@prancstamanpeerless has built some seriously Stout transaxles. One in particular is a belt driven cast iron top load shifted deal found on older garden tractors. It is popular with belt driven garden tractor pullers for it's ruggedness and I used one to drag a 6000lb boat around the yard. Some however that were meant more for cutting grass. The 700 being the latter. It is setup to accept a chain drive and increased speed but working as an engineer in ope industry while it will look cool all the work you've put in it may still fail under mud load or other high torque load. Design a fail safe into the drive setup. Like the chain itself. If it's the weak link all that effort in the gear box won't be lost just a master link. Best of luck to ya.
@Mtdmudmower Yes! You got the right idea there too. Still will be vulnerable. I plan on having gearing after this trans. Plus chain or belts driving the axles. Plus I won't be running alot of hp through this gearbox. Plan is to run it as close to the motor as posible and have all the gearing after. Idea is to make it easy to fix instead of dishing out alot of cash for something. Gearbox you metioned would be hard to find for me or cost too much. Gearboxes I can get and are a dime a dozen are the weak ones. I'd make the whole gearbox but have nothing to make gears with, yet.
Mtdmudmower Member
Age : 42 Join date : 2019-02-03 Points : 2169 Posts : 39 Location : West Salem, Ohio
I've come across the peerless garden tractor boxes at automotive swap meets. I recall then being between $100 and $300. Not bad not super cheap either.
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I've come across the peerless garden tractor boxes at automotive swap meets. I recall then being between $100 and $300. Not bad not super cheap either.
Sure there are transaxles and gearboxes out there stronger. I sure could get one with no problem. I could even go with a modified automotive gearbox for bullet proof use. But what fun will that be, LOL. Would be out of the scope of this thread also. The main goal here is to make a gearbox from other weaker gearboxes. And the steps needed to do it.
Hay People, Not working on this thing yet, LOL. just gathering parts for the modding of the Peerless 700 I guess. Still undecided for the most part on what gearbox I'm using. I figure I can get some 1/4" or 1/2" thick aluminum plate through my job. Should be easy to build a box with it, to hold the gearing. I already got an axle from a car to carve out a new output shaft. I don't want to make an output shaft just yet because I will be using the old output shaft's measurements as a template, and since I have not decided which gearbox I will be using yet, the template of the undrawn blueprint of the output shaft might change.
So, just wanted to show the axle that I want to make a new output shaft from, is all, LOL. Plus, still working on this project. Going to take a while but still moving forward.
Here's what I got. A busted axle out of a Crown Vic, 8.8 I think. Snapped in 2 when the tube rusted out and the car fell onto the axle shaft. Snapped it quick and clean so I think the rest of the now 2 shafts should be good and not fatigued. Ignore the rust, that's just seasoning.
Shorter of the 2 pieces. About 1 1/4" diameter measure up at 1.245" Close enough. I'm sure this steel isn't as hard as the output shaft of the Peerless but the thicker it will be should surpass the strength issue. Planning on having an output shaft of atleast 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch for the sprocket to fit onto.
Mtdmudmower Member
Age : 42 Join date : 2019-02-03 Points : 2169 Posts : 39 Location : West Salem, Ohio
Generally speaking automotive axles are made from 8620/8630 should be overly tough for the application. Going to key it or just weld a hub onto it? Welding on either of those materials shouldn't be a problem just curious.
Generally speaking automotive axles are made from 8620/8630 should be overly tough for the application. Going to key it or just weld a hub onto it? Welding on either of those materials shouldn't be a problem just curious.
I'll put a 1/4 inch key slot on the sprocket end. Want it to be serviceable. And thanks for the info on the axle metal, did not know that. Thought it was a lower alloy.
Hay People, Been a while for this thread. Got another gearbox to look at. It's off another kind of rear engine mower, Craftsman. This mower was given to me from a fellow member, DustinM, and the idea was for my nephew to get it running and working but he lost interest so I told him I'll take it off his hands, LOL. For the cause. The gearbox seems to be compact enough and is a 5 speed with reverse also. I have an idea on how the gear layout is which makes it a candidate for this build but not sure till I actually tear into it. I definitely won't be blueprinting this one. If I can use it, I might only blueprint the parts I use. The transaxle is pretty locked up from rust and corrosion, OH BOY! Good thing I got a press. Something is getting smashed, LOL.
Looky, looky….
By looking at the case and how the case forms around the parts on the inside interests me. I see only 2 rows of shafts, which means the axle shafts double as something, at the very least, and that means the supporting parts are made a certain way for this. We shall see. No idea when, kinda real busy now and have to wait for time to play with this.
STAY TUNED!!!
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I hope you have a good lathe and some carbide tooling. I was turning some 820 axle shaft and it was going good til i got toward the splined end. They definitely hardened it there. I guess that doesn't mean anything about yours though.
@RichieRichOverdrive Yup, I think they just case harden the axles, meaning the surface is hardened only. Once you get past that layer then it should be regular steel. I haven't got a lathe, yet lol. I will be building one or buying one soon. But I will be making a vertical mill though. I got the steel for it over the winter for the frame, and been collecting the odds and ends for years, LOL.
Yah, I plan on using regular car axles for the shafts and gocart axles too, when I get to it. I figure no need to harden the metal since I plan on making the shafts thicker then normal, If I can anyways.
Hay People, finally had a chance to tear into the transaxle. Wasn't too bad taking it apart. I broke nothing on it. Saved everything but the tires. My press came in handy for sure. This will be a quick look see inside and how it works.
Looks to be a FOOTE 3975 transaxle. This one is very compacted.
Very neat on how it works. Here is the inside. The counter shaft free spins on the long axle shaft. No chain for reverse, it uses a gear for that. The shifter shaft is the output of the power to the axle, not the counter shaft.
These next 3 pics shows how power moves through the gearing to get to the axles. There are 3 basic ways the power moves through the gearing.
The 1st pic. This shows reverse on how the power moves through the gears. Pay no attention to the shift collar because it is in the wrong position for reverse. The red lines show the path of the power moving through the transaxle. The green arrows show which direction the gears are spinning.
The 2nd pic shows the power path for 5th gear being selected. The power doesn't even use the counter shaft.
This 3rd pic shows the power path of 1st through 4th.
The gearing itself looks pretty tuff to me. It's the case that is junk. Very thin aluminum. Couple things I really like is how the power moves through the gearing. The shifter shaft is the input and the output of power. The counter shaft spins free and doesn't have to be on the axle for the gear selection to work. With this setup, can be a vertical or horizontal input, but horizontal output only which is good. The counter shaft can stay untouched, the shaft it rides on is a 3/4 shaft and should be plenty strong to hold some power considering how thick the gearing is by itself and then a 3/4 shaft on top of that.
I like this design better then the Peerless 700. To use the FOOTE 3975 would be way easier to modify by just making a new shifter shaft. The counter shaft/gearing could just be moved onto it's own shaft and put someplace out of the way. And ofcourse design a new case. I figure a horizontal input of a 1 inch shaft. The engine can still be a vertical shaft engine with a belt twist going to the input. I figure from a 1 inch engine shaft, then twisted 90 degrees, and then to a horizontal 1 inch input shaft with a big pulley, should be plenty strong then the power going to a vertical 5/8 inch input shaft on the gearbox.
OK, that's it for now, more on it later. It's late and I'm sleepy. Later...……………..
Hay People, Just looking at the parts and trying to think how to use the parts or make better parts to use. On my last post about this Foote transaxle, I seem to have made a mistake on the thinking of the input of power. The transaxle input was a vertical input on the bottom going up into the gearing. My mistake was thinking to not use this and eliminate the vertical input in favor of a horizontal input on the shifter shaft. This can't be done easily because the gear that takes the vertical input is floating on the shifter shaft (only keyed to shaft in 5th gear) and has a bushing beside it to support the shaft. This bushing is in the way to do anything easily for a horizontal input of this gearbox.
Not going to be easy I guess. Would like to run 20 hp. through the gearbox but running 20 hp. through a 5/8 inch shaft and it hold together seems like it won't work, putting it mildly. Don't know what engine will be in front of this but 20 hp. seems reasonable for what it is going in. I can see stuff holding together if the shaft for vertical input was at least 3/4 inch. I think if I switch the little gear for something bigger, would seem doable for a 3/4 shaft at least. Gotta scrounge around for that.
It's my bedtime now, got to work tomorrow, LOL. More on this later. Later...………………..
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2024 Build-Off Entrant
2024 Build-Off Entrant
Age : 22 Join date : 2016-10-29 Points : 7221 Posts : 4020 Location : Lewisburg, KY
I have a peerless 700 style foote gearbox. This is kind of reminiscent of that. Except on my foote there's two bevel gears for forward and reverse, and the forward is stripped as they're low quality sintered steel.
Hay People It's been a while for anything on here for me. Still here, just in the back hiding. You know, overworked. I still have been working on my projects, taking pics here and there. Never fear. OK, enough of that, lets get to the post.
I'd like to thank everyone for reading my posts. I do keep tabs on them by recording the views. This will be the 10,000th view for this topic alone. WOW, Cool!! Just to let everyone know on keeping tabs on my topics, NONE of them are at the end, they are all ongoing and I just get so busy that I can't even find the time to post but............ Anywho,LOL........
To the subject of this post. More of a sneak peek of what's to come. I took the idea of this topic to the extreme, spent the money (alot of money) for moving forward on my design of a gearbox.
Probably will take along time and I am not going to mention it again until it is finished, but yah. Start imagination NOW!!
Subject: 
March 11th 2019, 6:38 pm
Something is getting smashed, LOL.
