MTD trail build

I hope mine gets at least 15 lol. Won't keep up with mutt but will at least keep up with one of the big tractors lol

I definitely need to separate the brake from the clutch pedal, there's only about 2 in of pedal travel from the time the clutch disengages to the time the brake locks up. Can't even feather the brakes, they just lock solid

George Gooding wrote:

OK thank-you, what tubing would you suggest for the exhaust?

People like to use tubing from old chairs or exercise equipment.  Pretty easy to find on the side of the road.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

George Gooding wrote:

OK thank-you, what tubing would you suggest for the exhaust?

People like to use tubing from old chairs or exercise equipment.  Pretty easy to find on the side of the road.

I would weld a threaded pipe to the exhaust and be able to run mufflers but unscrew them when you wish to be loud.

Going to run dual straight pipes all the way along the sides exiting the back

George Gooding wrote:

Going to run dual straight pipes all the way along the sides exiting the back

Yeah, I know to some straight pipes get loud fast.

Oh just a warning, if you intend to take those thread in exhaust inserts, it's gonna be a major pain. I ended up chiselling off the little jam nuts and banging on em a bunch to knock them loose. After that i made a bolt on exhaust setup (when i put it on the snapper its on). The bolt holes were already there and i had some flanged pieces i cut off of other oppy exhausts.

This pic doesn't show the propane can muffler i put on, but you get the idea. I got this tubing from some gas pressure washer frames.



Oh, and separate brakes shouldn't be hard to do. We both are lucky to have a nice airheart caliper. You could probably rig up the brake lever in the center to be separate from the clutch too, pretty easily if i remember correctly...

The caliper brand on mine is a Hurst, I was thinking about a brake pedal that gives a longer throw so I can feather them when I need to

I suppose if you weren't planning on correcting the clutch, that would be farily easy. Could put it right on the left side, and have some kind of linkage going to it.

What do you mean by correcting the clutch?

Putting the clutch pedal on the left side. I'm gonna do it on mine.

I've already done that to mine, looks better & stronger than factory, welded both sides of the linkage bracket

Ah alright. They did skimp out on some of the welding on these.

Took maybe 20 minutes to do

Does anyone know what this plug in for?
thought it might be for a vent tube that was never hooked up, i don't want to hook up a vent tube if it's for something else.

Interesting... I do not have a plug there on mine.

Just checked mine, doesn't have it either. I call it fair game for a vent line.

Tomorrows plan: got some 22x7-10 trail Wolves, so gonna build temporary hubs and get them mounted on the tractor
not sure if I'm gonna use the shocks in the picture though as they are awful stiff

Nice choice for tires! Good luck making the steering and frame hold up to them.

Got the front wheels done

I don't think that it looks too bad but now the frame flex is really noticeable, guess I'll work on the frame Bracing next

Looks good. You better get on bracing that front axle too. Mine had a lot of flex and the pivot hole was hogged out like 1/2" lol.

What I've done today.





put some head tins on, smoothed out the hubs and painted them and put the body back on to see how it looks and get some more ideas. Once I get everything done how I like it then the sheet metal will come back off one last time for paint

I do like the big front tires, but the chamber looks a little bit out of wack.

Yeah I know, the one hub got a bit warped when I was dismantling the old 8" rim, ran outa cut off wheels so I ended up using a grinding wheel, chisel and a hammer. Going to try and find some Honda hubs next week

Pulley ratio recommendations, 1:1, 1:1.3, or 1:2. Would still have plenty of torque in first but not sure about the other gears. Was thinking about 1:2 or maybe even 1:3

With 1:1 and the 2300's high reduction, i think you would do well for top speed and crawling gears. You might still want to go higher, but not more than 1:2 i think.