"Dinky" (Crafstman 917.254650)

Well, if you have a friend with a smartphone, you can just download one of many free speedometer apps and find out.

i have a cordless phone, and a 16 year old laptop. close enough?

Just measure a distance and time it with a stopwatch.  Fool proof method.  GPSs sometimes aren't all that accurate.


Epic rooster tail there.

hmm, i guess i cold mesure 24ft then use how any feet there are in a mile and multiply the number of times 24ft fit in a mile by the crossing time. but that will take a a second person to operate a timer on my laptop.

even flip phones I had back in the day had stop watches.  I think you can track one down somewhere.

well, i have made a mode to dinky's steering and i LOVE it, video comming soon. i doubled the lenth of that arm that comes out for the rod that goes to the steering box. that is a mod i shold of made the day i got big tiers. its so perfect. has any one else here done this? i also stuffed a washer up in the axle and put the bolt on so tight the front end dose not easily pivot further reducing steering play.

if i did this mod a long time a go my steering box wold probably not be failing on me now.

So you lengthened the pitman arm? That would speed up the ratio quite a bit and make steering stiff, or maybe it was the steering arm on the spindle was it? I might need a picture or two here.

Maybe it's made the ratio and feel right where he likes it?

AllisKidD21 wrote:

So you lengthened the pitman arm? That would speed up the ratio quite a bit and make steering stiff, or maybe it was the steering arm on the spindle was it? I might need a picture or two here. :lol!:

i dont know what you mean by pit man or spindle, i made the part longer on the axle that is not for tie rods.

Oh okay, I saw the video. Yeah you lengthened the steering arm on the spindle. Nice! Bet it's a lot smoother now.

The part you extended is the steering arm on the "spindle" (The L-Shaped part that connects the Wheel and axle)

The pitman arm Allis mentioned is the arm that comes from the steering box (or steering gears).  Where the other end of the drag link connects to that the steering wheel turns.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Oh okay, I saw the video. Yeah you lengthened the steering arm on the spindle. Nice! Bet it's a lot smoother now.

as smooth as a 1000deg hot knife in butter.

help? i like my pully ratio and dinky kicks ass in the mud on 2nd gear but theres a problem, my motor dose not have the torqe to keep up and i will eventually stall out even thogh i hit the mud floord.

anything i can do to get more torqe out of my motor? could care less about HP, its got plenty of get up and go, just boggs down to easily.

RockeyDA wrote:

help? i like my pully ratio and dinky kicks ass in the mud on 2nd gear but theres a problem, my motor dose not have the torqe to keep up and i will eventually stall out even thogh i hit the mud floord.

anything i can do to get more torqe out of my motor? could care less about HP, its got plenty of get up and go, just boggs down to easily.

Well, @Crazy_Carl and I were having a chat the other day about something along these lines.  It seems that most people are shooting themselves in the foot when you have a super high ratio because it can kill the trans, and bogs down the engine, and is altogether unnecessary.  It seems that on my Weed Eater, with a 3" front pulley and a 5" rear pulley, at full speed (17 MPH) the engine can't get over 3500 RPM, when, in neutral, the engine can get well over 4200 RPM.
On the set up I had on my Craftsman (6" front pulley and 5" rear pulley), at top speed, it couldn't get over 2500 RPM because of lack of torque, however, the engine could get up to 5000 RPM in neutral.
Meantime, your trans is always being run very high and very hot and you pretty much only have fast and faster as trans speeds, along with an almost unusable reverse.
IDK, it just seems to me that it would make more sense to have a perfect mix of ratios, given how much torque your engine has.
As far as modifying the engine, it's already an oppy which should have a lot of torque, I would maybe shave the heads on it, and try to get a less restricted intake/exhaust.

Yeah for low end torgue over driving this kind of trans doesn’t make sense. Maybe run a 4” engine and either a 5 or 6 trans pulley.

im not willing to change pully ratio, and 5" pully on the motor is to small to work with my cluch setup. if i slow dinky down i might as well stay in 1st gear were my power seems limitless. go get threw a mid put i need to keep my wheels spinning at a good speed. if i were to change my ratio i wold go 9" in the front and 9" in the back.

btw, i cant hold a camra and drive like that, but i do spend half my time on the trail in 3rd gear (mst-203) when the camras off i hall ass down thoes traills.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

RockeyDA wrote:

help? i like my pully ratio and dinky kicks ass in the mud on 2nd gear but theres a problem, my motor dose not have the torqe to keep up and i will eventually stall out even thogh i hit the mud floord.

anything i can do to get more torqe out of my motor? could care less about HP, its got plenty of get up and go, just boggs down to easily.

Well, @Crazy_Carl and I were having a chat the other day about something along these lines.  It seems that most people are shooting themselves in the foot when you have a super high ratio because it can kill the trans, and bogs down the engine, and is altogether unnecessary.  It seems that on my Weed Eater, with a 3" front pulley and a 5" rear pulley, at full speed (17 MPH) the engine can't get over 3500 RPM, when, in neutral, the engine can get well over 4200 RPM.
On the set up I had on my Craftsman (6" front pulley and 5" rear pulley), at top speed, it couldn't get over 2500 RPM because of lack of torque, however, the engine could get up to 5000 RPM in neutral.
Meantime, your trans is always being run very high and very hot and you pretty much only have fast and faster as trans speeds, along with an almost unusable reverse.
IDK, it just seems to me that it would make more sense to have a perfect mix of ratios, given how much torque your engine has.
As far as modifying the engine, it's already an oppy which should have a lot of torque, I would maybe shave the heads on it, and try to get a less restricted intake/exhaust.

what do you mean by shave the head? and vary hot is got a good workd to describe my transaxle, the hottest i have ever felt this 203 get is between 100-110F fom feeling the case putting my belt back on. normally its just a bit warmer than everything else. my runner bords stay way hotter than the trans.

RockeyDA wrote:

what do you mean by shave the head? and vary hot is got a good workd to describe my transaxle, the hottest i have ever felt this 203 get is between 100-110F fom feeling the case putting my belt back on. normally its just a bit warmer than everything else. my runner bords stay way hotter than the trans.

Shaving the head is a technique most commonly done with flatheads like yours, although it can be done on OHVs, although it is a lot more work, and it is impossible to do on OHCs because it throws off the timing.
It is where you remove the head, put a thinner gasket on, or physically sand/file down the head surface, that way there is less room inside of the engine and there is a higher compression ratio, giving it more hp and more torque. It's very easy to do on a flat head.
Another way of accomplishing it is putting a silicone head gasket on, although using silicone for anything on an engine is frowned upon (IDK why).

i can tell you trying to use red RTV for a headgaskit only works for a day to two.

I'm thinking if you're having a lack of power with that model 42 opposed, you might wanna start checking compression and what not. Shouldn't be having those kinds of issues with that engine.

alright. ile do that at some point, im sure my rings are going out as its starting to leaving a white haze when the air is still and i get off it for a min. its not something you notice most of the time though.
might wait for compression test till i get my starter back. the my boss cant get a hold of the guy he took it to for the rebuild. i wish i just took a chanse on the ebay shroud. its a half blown up starter that needed excessive current to work. but its better than no starter.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=garmin+gps&_sacat=0&_sop=15 personal reminder to buy/bid next pay day.

figured i wold give you an update, i got a new idelr pully for dinky, but the last 2 weeks getting spark has been iffy on the left silinder, on a drive to tractorsupply running on 1 cilinder to buy new spark plugs it lost all spark as i pulled in the parking spot. orded new coil on ebay.

mean while that john deere has goten alot of dents from me hitting it while trying to replace the starter realy. theres no damn room to work in that thing, i hate it, john deer is horrible, im never picking one up agin. that thing is HORRIBLE to work on.