"Dinky" (Crafstman 917.254650)

RockeyDA wrote:

dinky has new rims already, i just need to buy tires for it and a new axle. with i cant afford. so how im i going to afford new rims, new hubs, and new tires, and a new axle?

yeah sounds like im just too stupid for building anything. Nobody has too much cash & I dont have it as well!

bediesds, if i was going for hubs... 5 bolt, so i can use tractor tires.

RockeyDA wrote:

bediesds, if i was going for hubs... 5 bolt, so i can use tractor tires.

dunno if there are some available, only seen 3 and 4 bolt hubs on 8" rims

I think he is talking about using the 12" ones. You can get 5 on 4.5 wheels in 8 inch.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330151_200330151

well i got 12" rims that mount on 3/4" shaft.. i just need a shaft to mount them on and tires.
i was gonna get some tires on creglist but the guy wanted me to call and i dont do over the phone.

so my oppy my friend half blew up, i dont think she will survive anther traill ride, and being a higher HP motor i dont know if im willing to runner till she blows. i still use that tractor to get to stores and stuff, but i have been babying the motor.

so i got 2 other oppys, both are low compression but not smokers or knockers yet. either spare should get rings and i need to make a snorkle because my crappy air filter that lets me fit such a big motor on a small hood aint cutting it.

right now im dealing with some stuff and untill im on my own house money and free time is gonna be tight for the next year.

so i was thinking if putting dinkys stock motor back in, but with a new fancy after market con-rod to silence its knock as thats the only thing that motor needs. butt here is another problem...

for me to get to the trails from my house involves a steep about 1000ft mountain climb. witch on my 1:1 ratio the big climb was about 5min of full stomped throttle only running 2400peak RPM till leveled out. even thogh it was fall/winter durring these runs, my oil would be boiling buy the time i got to the top and every trip made the motor sound worse.

would a fancy con rod take that abuse? is there something else i should do?
and no theres not a mouse nest in the air shroud im just pushing the motor to its limit.

oh another reason i wanna go back to a single, uses way less gas. and there is currently not a gas station in tractor distance from my home.

this aint permanent, just to stop me from damaging other motors i cant afford to keep running strong and long right now.

Pretty sad to hear!!

I dont think there are any Billet Rods out for Briggs Oppys, and if, they're very expensive!
I would just get new Rings for it, and add a Oil Temp gauge to it so U can watch the temps and with new Rings it should have way more compression and power again and that should solve the most problems, try to stay in lowest gear while going uphill and run it on 3000 RPM whenever U can to help it cooling, and U could add an electric fan as well that U switch on when the Engine is running, means U bolt a car radiator elexctric fan on top of your shroud that forces Air inside like a Booster Fan and U could leave that fan Running like 5-10 min after U shut it down to cool it more down!
I dont think a Single will have enough torque to keep up with your Pulley Ratio....

That's what I'm afraid of... It'll be a serious workout for a single, but it should handle it if you don't over rev it.

You can get billet parts for Oppys, but it is a CRAZY price. Here's a website I found if you want your billet parts...

https://www.arcracing.com/6624-arc-billet-flywheel-briggs-model-42-46-opposed-twin-boxer/

billet flywheel... $350. 2 billet rods... $240

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Pretty sad to hear!!

I  dont think there are any Billet Rods out for Briggs Oppys, and if, they're very expensive!
I would just get new Rings for it, and add a Oil Temp gauge to it so U can watch the temps and with new Rings it should have way more compression and power again and that should solve the most problems, try to stay in lowest gear while going uphill and run  it on 3000 RPM whenever U can to help it cooling, and U could add an electric fan as well that U switch on when the Engine is running, means U bolt a car radiator elexctric fan on top of your shroud that forces Air inside like a Booster Fan and U could leave that fan Running like 5-10 min after U shut it down to cool it more down!
I dont think a Single will have enough torque to keep up with your Pulley Ratio....

if im in a lower gear it takes longer to climb the hill. the motors gonna overheat before i shift down. and the single dose not need new rings, its hard to turn over, rock solid compression. thats why i figured it would be a qucik drop in to hold me over for a year or two. if a new conrod for my single is more than 30$ then thats out of my budget right now. and ile do just run another motor till the point its knoking.

Murraymountain wrote:

That's what I'm afraid of... It'll be a serious workout for a single, but it should handle it if you don't over rev it.

You can get billet parts for Oppys, but it is a CRAZY price. Here's a website I found if you want your billet parts...

https://www.arcracing.com/6624-arc-billet-flywheel-briggs-model-42-46-opposed-twin-boxer/

billet flywheel... $350. 2 billet rods... $240 :shock:

i have never not over revved a motor on a geard trans. it did not like the excessive torque demands, that motor never seemd to mind hours of banning threw gears in town all day. and looking at those prices. im only using stock con-rods for now on. i cant put a part in a motor to fix it if it cost several times the motors replacement value.

Yeah I know. I was astonished at those prices.

As for stock, my brother got both rods for $40. They didn't fit of course but at least we know we can get Oppy rods for that price.

well right now im looking for a rod for a 12hp single.

Reason why they are so expensive is because of the machining, they take a solid chunk of aluminium and machine it to specs.
Here's a video of a CNC making a cylinder head from a billet

id rather have cast iron parts, more reliable. aluminum is weak... and how come 2 stroke con rods get bearings around moving parts but 4 stroke conrods are metal on metal?

2 stroke engines have a much higher RPM range for one.

RockeyDA wrote:

id rather have cast iron parts, more reliable. aluminum is weak... and how come 2 stroke con rods get bearings around moving parts but 4 stroke conrods are metal on metal?

Actually pretty much all racing engines use billet or forged aluminum rods I believe. Very rarely will they use cast iron because it’s so heavy for a rotating assembly, any little variation in the casting will throw the weight off immensely

Yep, if your gonna go high RPM then you'll need billet. But I don't believe he's gonna go over the stock revs.

Murraymountain wrote:

Yep, if your gonna go high RPM then you'll need billet. But I don't believe he's gonna go over the stock revs.

if you talking to me, low in torqe is were it counts, but when im baning threw gears i rev my motor has high as its gonna rev. i think my single would only go to something like 5200rpm, i know my oppy was over 6000rpm.

when im in a mud hole its wide open throttle time as well. i just dont hold high RPM's for more than a few seconds at a time. i mean if i had a motor that could run 5000RPM all day i would love that, would make getting to the trails faster. because i mud i cant gear up any higher.

Koltin wrote:

Reason why they are so expensive is because of the machining, they take a solid chunk of aluminium and machine it to specs.
Here's a video of a CNC making a cylinder head from a billet

con rods are cast. they only machine were it goes to crank and piston. also that "billet" just looks like aluminum to me.

Well let me see, I'd over rev an Oppy without any mods and not worry about it. But a single, 5000 is pretty high, only time I'd run one at that RPM without billet parts is when I'm just revving it. I guess I baby my motors sometimes. Another reason I won't run mine 2000 over the stock RPM is I have a helicoil in it. Although I do run mine all day long about 100-150 RPMs over the stock revs and it's not modded at all.

RockeyDA wrote:

Koltin wrote:

Reason why they are so expensive is because of the machining, they take a solid chunk of aluminium and machine it to specs.
Here's a video of a CNC making a cylinder head from a billet

that "billet" just looks like aluminum to me.

A billet is a fancy word for a solid piece of aluminium.

so im think of this connecting rod (link below) its 25$ after shipping NOS briggs OEM
my motor is a "281707" and if any one has a cheep conrod they think will hold up better than this let me know, no way will i spend more than 50$ because at that point id rather beat her till she knocks then get a new rod a year or two down the road.

i buy this end of the day tomorrow if nothing better is found.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Stratton-490348-New-Old-Stock-OEM-Connecting-Rod/254184209015?epid=1860379692&hash=item3b2e8f3a77:g:UiMAAOSwZmJcoU~V

Murraymountain wrote:

Well let me see, I'd over rev an Oppy without any mods and not worry about it. But a single, 5000 is pretty high, only time I'd run one at that RPM without billet parts is when I'm just revving it. I guess I baby my motors sometimes. Another reason I won't run mine 2000 over the stock RPM is I have a helicoil in it. Although I do run mine all day long about 100-150 RPMs over the stock revs and it's not modded at all.

i never much liked the guvnor, i disable it before pully swapping, it is first mod.
this video here basically shows how i run my motors when its time to have fun. now when i got a several hour rode trip i try to keep between 3200-3600 going off of sound.

welp, i took dinky to the store for a snack run today. might be my last store run with it, its really starting to miss fire. it has to run 5min before it has any power. and the knock is becoming louder than my straight pipe. i might rip around the yard 1 last time on video. then im going back to the single this weekend. i got a NOS con rod for it in the shead.

im going to try to make the single exhaust setup near identical to 1 pipe of my current hopeing it will still sound kinda bad ass. i have gone threw a few changes with my oppys exhaust, and right now i think it is the most bad ass sounding oppy i have heard. im shure some will disagree being a preference thing and all. but when i go back on my older videos its like, damn nothing sounded as good as current setup. i have had stuff sound better at certen RPMs, but what i got now is most well rounded sound.

also will hate my toqe loss, but will love my using less gas and not breaking things every trail ride.

have not been posting dinky videos here, lets fix that.