$25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build

He said no valve movement either. Now I’m not sure exactly how these kohlers are put together, but I’m pretty sure if the con-rod was the only thing wrong the valves would still move

Hmmm
Could be the compression release mechanism

If I recal correctly you can't really tell if the piston and valves are moving with a screwdriver on these because the spark plug hole is directly above the combustion chamber, unless you got in on a weird angle or what have you. I thought about stuck valves too because it could easily happen if the engine sat outside for a long time. But since the crank can be spun so easily and have momentum, there's definitely something else very wrong. Even if a valve was stuck open there would be a bit of resistance due to the piston moving up and down in the cylinder.

Double, check the 2018 build off thread, Carl has something for ya! Lol

Yeah I thought so too, engines don't turn that freely normally

biggasmowers wrote:

Yeah I thought so too, engines don't turn that freely normally

Yeah, unforunately it might be kinda screwed. Probably be easiest to just swap the carb and stuff on one of the other engines after checking the internals and stuff.

Okay so here's why I think the con rod is snapped.

It also catches sometimes.
Okay, so build plans are:
Rear plow, probably will start with a sleeve hitch because I have one, lol, may upgrade to a 3 point
Front bucket
2 2,000 LBS winches, front and back
Roll bar
Diesel swap (?)
Gonna try to keep the vari drive, we'll see how much it slips
Pulley swap, 4" rear, 6" front
Ags, front and rear
Diff lock
turbo charger maybe....
Should be really cool!  Ideas are welcome!

It'd hard for me to tell from that video exactly what is going on with that motor. I like your build plan. I would take 5 minutes and pull the head off this motor to see what's going on with the piston and valves. What do you have to loose?

Okay I'll go pull the head.  But it's going to take more than 5 minutes, lol.  I take pics and explain why when I'm done.

What? No cordless impact driver????

TheBeal wrote:

What? No cordless impact driver????

Nope, way yonder too cheap!  JK, the head is held on with studs.  They were all seized, I couldn't fit my ratcheting boxed end wrench on it, and I had like half a centimeter to turn the wrench.  Not ideal, haha.

Okay so it's snapped. 

Valves look good though, might just swap the rod.

On a sidenote, I need a new carb.  That one, the butterflies are firmly seized in place.  Oh well, only $18.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-For-Kohler-K-series-241-301-10-12HP-Cast-Iron-Engines-Carb-Cub-Cadet/222712299678?hash=item33dab0009e:g:h7AAAOSw8UZaA9A5

Yeah that’s a busted rod for sure. Try to find a Carter brand aftermarket carb. They’re dirt cheap too and I’ve heard good things about them.

Make sure when you remove and re-install the head you do it with the proper pattern. Don't wanna risk warping it, haha. Sucks about the con rod but it's no surprise I guess since you kinda figured that was the issue. Hopefully you can get 'er running again!

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Make sure when you remove and re-install the head you do it with the proper pattern. Don't wanna risk warping it, haha.

And make sure to torque them to the proper torque when you put it together, because you are putting this back together.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

And make sure to torque them to the proper torque when you put it together, because you are putting this back together.

I agree very much so with both of these statements.

Liken said, your connecting rod is toast lol.

I actually just watched your video there, does this engine have an electric clutch? Or some sort of mechanical engage ones? I have a pto clutch from I think a wheel horse, it's two pieces; one is keyed to the crankshaft, one slides on the crank to engage the with the other one (it has a pullley on it). Or at least that's how I think it works. been a while since I looked at it.

Also I'd like to note that a used con rod is cheaper than a diesel

Or better yet, free out of one of the other two engines.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

Yeah that’s a busted rod for sure.  Try to find a Carter brand aftermarket carb.  They’re dirt cheap too and I’ve heard good things about them.

Alright!

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Make sure when you remove and re-install the head you do it with the proper pattern. Don't wanna risk warping it, haha. Sucks about the con rod but it's no surprise I guess since you kinda figured that was the issue. Hopefully you can get 'er running again!

Haha, yeah I will! 

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

And make sure to torque them to the proper torque when you put it together, because you are putting this back together.

Oh now that's mighty demanding, hahaha!!! 

biggasmowers wrote:

Liken said, your connecting rod is toast lol.

Yeah I'm going to swap it out of one of the others.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

I actually just watched your video there, does this engine have an electric clutch? Or some sort of mechanical engage ones? I have a pto clutch from I think a wheel horse, it's two pieces; one is keyed to the crankshaft, one slides on the crank to engage the with the other one (it has a pullley on it). Or at least that's how I think it works. been a while since I looked at it.

Also I'd like to note that a used con rod is cheaper than a diesel

Actually it's manual, but I've never seen anything like it.  Doesn't work, though.
Yeah it is.  But I'm currently swapping one out of one of the others.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Or better yet, free out of one of the other two engines.

Yeah better than nothing, at least I could sell the Kohler then.

If ypur still going for a diesel, look for old generators , as they can have air cooled diesel 10 hp motors and the engines can be fine but the generator is worn out. Maybe put an ad on craigslist.

Just remember though that a generator engine will have a tapered PTO journal, so a regular pulley won't work. Doesn't mean it's impossible, I'm just saying. Haha.

yeah I know. but hopefully I can make it work.  Worst case scenario I could get a pulley welded to the shaft hahaha.

Could just do this!

Not super accurate. Or you could pull it out and have a machine shop turn it down.

biggasmowers wrote:

Not super accurate.  Or you could pull it out and have a machine shop turn it down.

Naw to much work!

Crazy meming Carl should be ypur user name carl.