Off Road Noma Build

This is the build thread so whoever was commenting before. Please say stuff here. Thanks.

You doing a normal take your time build or did you want to enter the buildoff?

@mightyraze Enter the Buildoff!

If I hadn't had the motor rebuilt in Ol Red I would'f spend about $600. That's a good size budget to work with, but you can do a lot for less.

ok.

Anyway, if you are gonna buy a new carb you could also put a wide bore carb on, then it'll really rev here up!

Crazy_Carl wrote:

That's a good size budget to work with, but you can do a lot for less.

Agreed, $600 is a great budget! Hell I built my rat rod tractor for $58.06, and most of that was a belt, haha.

Minus tire, Nellybelle was $50, with tire 200 but I went with really expensive ones.

@rynomine  Top right is the Buildoff Instructions...  Get 'er done!

Ok!

Update~~~~ So I found a Motor I could use if the one in mine doesn’t work.





It’s 250 bucks.

I think that’s a little too much money to be spending on a used motor.

K

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I think that’s a little too much money to be spending on a used motor.

I agree with Carl, you could buy a tractor that has a rotting deck for like $50 and scrap it and steal the engine.  Especially since that on is a Kohler engine.
But at the very worst, a new filter, shut off valve, fuel line, fuel pump, and carb is less than $45.  How many HP is the engine it has right now?  You only need 10 hp, anything else is overkill.  Nothing wrong with overkill, but I would not go out of my way to do it.

Hi everyone I’ve decided since I want to have fun on my first build and I want to do it right. And of course I don’t want to rush the build. I am going to not enter the build off and just do it at my own pace. Now I will still document it with videos and posts. But I think I will have a much better first experience doing it this way. And I will have time to make more money. So I can make the tractor really cool.

So here are my plans.
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My base tractor is a“Noma Model F315-000”

The starting upgrades I will do to it are some new tires with good tread.

The next thing I will do is install a tethered kill switch, and a hand or foot throttle. I still haven’t completely decided.

And of course get the engine running.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you guys have any suggestions on what I should not do or do. Please tell me below.


Also, it is a 15.5 hp

.PULLEY SWAP!!!!!

Also, yeah 15.5 HP is plenty.

Oh I was already planning to do a pulley swap. I just forgot to put that on the list.

Also does anyone know how to use a horizontal shaft engine in a vertical shaft application. Because if this motor doesn’t work. Or I get a new one because every time my friend got it running it would need something new. If I get a new one I will get a predator.

If you were to do that you could run engine with the crank parallel to the frame, have the belt drop down through the frame, and have mule drive sort of deal with a couple of pulleys to turn the belt *90 to direct it to the transaxle pulley. Not sure exactly how reliable that setup would be, but I'm sure it's possible.

Ok I’ll look into that.

I've also wondered if you could just drill new holes in the frame of the tractor, and use the threaded holes in the horizontal that go to the torque converter and use those like a regular engine mount. IDK.

Well I just found this. I don’t know if this is real though.

http://www.hovercrafter.com/pdf/belt%20drves.pdf

Yeah, that *90 mule drive setup is what I was talking about. That's how most lawn/garden tractor with forward facing horizontal engines run the belt down to the deck pulley.

I Just read that you will lose about 5 hp if you do a mule drive.

I really doubt you'll lose that much. Snapper LT16s (and some sister models of that) use a 90* mule drive to drive the deck, and the 16hp oppy will spin a 48* deck at idle. Although That setup has an electric clutch, so there's constant tension. No clutching.