Duuds Build Off 2018 "The Donkey" aka "Eesel" [2018 Build-Off Entry]

Spark plugs. Sorry for not clarifying.

sparkplugs are brand new...as igniton coil...

Then defiantly carb. I have cleaned a carb 3 times and still made no improvement. Then 4th time I got some inner canal finally clear of the sand that had snuck in and it still runs like new!

I agree seems like the carb needs a good cleaning, inspection and the float checked for adjustment.

Sounds like the idle is not working. Did you adjust the idle mixture and idle speed screws. I see them in your diagram. 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in is a good place to start. Idle should be the first thing that needs adjusted on an engine.

ok, i will bring my carb to a guy that deals with acid and stuff like that, he does chrome\goldplates\silverplates and other stuff like that, he has some acid, that will dissolve anything...leaving the alu and copper in tact...lets see what happens.

Guten morgen fellas.
Yesterday i had a good day, the donkey is ALIVE! The fourth carb cleaning helped. Many thanks to "biggasmowers". Tryed myself and found tiny speck of old gunk what was inside one micro canal "Low Speed", the canal goes straight down to the fuel reservuar and if you stick something enough small trough there, it can give you a big "surprize ...".
So, now are three things that are in my way of complete happyness

1. The wires, that come from underneath the flywheel, one is red and one is black - do i connect them straight to the batt I have watched many of Doc's videos but i cant find anything that relates to my problem, maybe Doc can do a howto on that issue:?: He's vids are a good lunch time companions. He has wiring videos but maybe im too dumb...

2. The engine is running a little odd, i cant get the revs down to a level where it almost dies out, i dont want to hold them so low but i would like to get the revs a little lower. There are two screws 1. outside idle and 2. inside idle. The outside idle has room, the lever isnt even touching it. inside screw, i tried to turn it fully closed and even five turns open...no change...

3. When i press the pedal, to get more speed then the engine "explodes" sometimes. Is the mix too rich:?:  cant burn all? What can i do:?:  

Also, i made a gallery for my donkey - http://pilt.duud.ee/index.php/Murray-GT-Eesel <- if i upload pics here, they take a lot of time to load and the page jumps.

I checked out the gallery.  I like the hinge and the way your gas pedal looks.

1) I'm no oppy expert but the black wire I'm pretty sure is the kill wire which needs to be hooked to a kill switch, not the battery.  The red wire I'm thinking is from the stator which needs to be hooked up to a regulator or rectifier.

2)  I saw what looked like an idle speed adjustment screw in your pictures.  I would adjust the rpms down a little bit, then re-adjust the idle misture screw, then repeat this process until you achieve a smooth idle at the rpms you want.


3)  You definitely need to adjust your main mixture too.

I wonder if your still have a small blockage in the carburetor somewhere?

1)  The 2 wires together are alternator wires.  One (red I think) should have a DIODE next to the plug under some shrink wrapping (This goes to your battery or battery side of solenoid for charging).  That other (black) is a lights circuit from the altenator.  Most people do not use that on custom builds but you can for the lights if you do not want them to draw down on the battery.  Only thing is, they dim and brighten depending on the RPM.  There should be another black but lighter grade wire by itself coming out on the other side of the carb that runs to the coil.  That is your kill wire.

Alternator probably looks like this.

Probably is running slightly rich and the pops are incomplete burns happening in the exhaust pipes or muffler or even in the valve exit ports. One cool way to see if you are running too rich would be to run it at night in the dark and see what color the flames are, generally when you throttle up then let it down there will be flames from the excessive gas from the throttle plate closing but if ypur burning long bright blue flames while running at say half you are probably running too rich (this easiest to see on straight pipes where the baffles don't hide the flames.)

@MightyRazeI have a feeling that it's a common occurence for someone to cut the red and black wires off and lose the diode inthe process. 

just like MightyRaze said, the cables are right, but i dont have the diode in there...i understand that its for one way? so if the battery is full it wont "charge" back? Then i should go and get one...before i connect it? Also i know the kill wire, it comes from the igniton coil... thanks MightyRaze.

Now, wich screws i can turn, to make changes to my idle speed...the bottom one does nothing "inside idle screw"...there are no svrews left? i also tried the one on the gas lever whats on the governor...still nothing...

The idle speed screw should be the one on the outside of the carb with a spring on it.  I determines how far the throttle plate can close.

Definitely get a diode or maybe a full bridge rectifier before you hook up those charging wires to your battery.

Huh. I don't know if I have a diode on mine lol.

Howdy.
A little update, finished the seat and reinforced it, also attached a box for tools and other stuff....





TO-DO:
1. If i get the exhaust done, then i will start tinkering with the idle and the engine closer.
2. Need to buy the diode and will add it for sure.
3. lights, need to find some nice led lights that fit into my original socket.
4 . some small wiring for lights and something soft for the seat.
5. last but not least, i dont know where to put the beer holder...

...Til then, i think i will be trying to go fishing and do some work on my boat.

Have a nice weekend and many thanks for the advice.

I'd put the beer holder between your legs on the floor there behind the dash so brush won't knock it loose.  I've had some cupholder mishaps on my John Deere lol.

Good location for the toolbox.  Looks easy to get to.

Are you thinking about upholstering the seat yourself?

You can just buy foam inserts that glue on the metal seat back.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I'd put the beer holder between your legs on the floor there behind the dash so brush won't knock it loose. 

I thought of that, but i like it clean,   or steril... i need some time to have some beers and sit next to the donkey...i figure it out. but if everything else fails, there will be a "fridge" instead of simple beerholder.  

Crazy_Carl wrote:

Good location for the toolbox.  Looks easy to get to.

Many thanks, i thought of doing the same thing what Doc did but it takes too much effort to build and use it. Also as you said, easy to access and in my opinion looks good.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

Are you thinking about upholstering the seat yourself?

I dunno, what to do, i want to have the sides higher, so i have more side comfort when driving, my butt wont move. I had an idea, to do pads, two of them. One for butt and one for back, add them with some special screws and it looks clean...but how comfy, maybe not...dunno, time to have a beer with my donkey.

biggasmowers wrote:

You can just buy foam inserts that glue on the metal seat back.

The foam will build rust underneath- if i add the most valuable thing to my tractor, my time, then i intend it to last as long as possible. Old foam was ugly and did a great deal of damage to the seat. Yes, agreed, it would be easy and comfy...but...

Oh, forgot one thing.
My friends are talking about getting the donkey customized for winter, so they can hook theyr sleds behind and i can drag them out to the ice, for fishing. Are there any things that i should start thinking of? Some modifications to the engine? Transmission? Yes, Tires need chains or something like that. But what else should i be looking out for...i know that many are plowing snow with mowers but is it really that simple- as summer, so goes winter?

I'd run either 5w-30 or 10w30 in the engine at cooler temperatures.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I'd run either 5w-30 or 10w30 in the engine at cooler temperatures.

Right now i have 10w30...

What are you running for tires?

I used to love pulling my brother around on a sled behind my Jacobsen when I was a kid.  The stock turf tires were terrible in the snow.  When I upgraded to knobby tires with rear weights that made a big difference but the front end pushed a lot.  My John Deere with the x-tracs up front even pushes the front end in the snow.  I think chains would help a lot too.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

What are you running for tires?.

For now there are stock ones, for the summer. But, that brings me to an idea- why i cant make myself some chains for rear and make two snowskies for front?
For front i need a steel plate 50cm long, 10cm wide and one small raised pipe on top that is the same size\height as the wheel center...and thats done...

I have a riding mower I used just for snow plowing. I keep it close to the house since I live in the city.

I set it up for the snow with dumbbell weights (20lbs)on an extended rear bumper and weights on the plow (10lbs) so the plow digs down into the snow. A locked rear axle was good in driving through deep snow while it didn't matter for just plowing snow. Tires, I would always run turf savers with chains but with the chains on the road made for a little rough ride of bouncing on the chains while riding over them. The motor, since I parked it near the house, I adapted a 110v AC starter from a snowblower to the motor and used an extension cord run from the house to the motor to start it so I didn't have to worry about keeping a battery charged in the cold to start the motor. Plus a pull string starter for when the motor stalled while I was away from the house on the street. You might think about using a big battery since the cold is a battery's worst enemy and a pull string starter as a back up for yours. Plus an extra large gas tank and a foot throttle with the hand throttle on the dash with the governor still hooked up, but the foot throttle bypassed the governor because of how I hooked it up.

The skis would be pretty simple to build and put on the spindles you have.

My parents had this horse cart with skis you could swap on, that was pretty cool. We never used them(they never even came out of the bag lol). I always wanted to steal them and put them on a mower, but they got sold with the cart.

If you were going to make some skis, I think you'd want some spring steel for the runners(leaf springs are a good candidate). Regular mild steel might not stay polished so long and might get rough and provide some resistance. Just an thought.