USLMRA GP Racer [2017 Build-Off Entry]

USLMRA Sanctioned GP Class Racer Build. Discreet frame strengthening, mower dropped to 4" ground clearance, custom front axle, go kart rear axle, 700 tranny and custom tranny plate, custom steering, aluminum kart rims front and back, and a badass paint job

Looks like fun. That is my favorite style MTD, I've wanted one of them to play with for a while I just havent had the time or space

I love these MTDs too. LOL. They're so easy to work with it's kinda silly. Plus they can look wicked when done right.

They look great and are light weight, I just wouldn't off road with them. I would take any craftsman over any MTD any day of the week if I was going off road. For on road/dirt track racing they seem about perfect

Should be neat, what kind of engine is going in here?

So this build is more than the build off. It's a complete how to on my youtube channel, and a gift to my lady on our wedding day in April. Here's the progress video!

mr.modified wrote:

Should be neat, what kind of engine is going in here?

Since this will be a GP class (prepared chassis) racing mowchine it'll have a model 31 or model 33 briggs single OHV. With it being GP I have to leave that stock except for the airfilter (k&n style ok to use)

Adding the seat mount to the frame to sit 13" off the ground

Pretty neat to have engines more or less stock. Things can get expensive otherwise. Frame looking good.

Cool vids!! Subbed to your Channel. So, on the seat height, is it 13 inches from the ground, or 13 inches to the bottom of the frame then another 4 inches to the ground?

prancstaman wrote:

Cool vids!! Subbed to your Channel. So, on the seat height, is it 13 inches from the ground, or 13 inches to the bottom of the frame then another 4 inches to the ground?

Awesome! Thanks! The seat height minimum on a prepared chassis is 13" from the ground to the bottom of the seat pan...That includes the 4" minimum from bottom of frame to ground

mr.modified wrote:

Pretty neat to have engines more or less stock. Things can get expensive otherwise. Frame looking good.

LOL!!! It IS going to be a nice financial break! My Briggs single on the CP cost over $2500 to build and I already had the stock one to gut!

Mickee78681 wrote:

mr.modified wrote:

Pretty neat to have engines more or less stock. Things can get expensive otherwise. Frame looking good.

LOL!!! It IS going to be a nice financial break! My Briggs single on the CP cost over $2500 to build and I already had the stock one to gut!

That cost more than my good Jeep

Hell, the rolling chassis (this one and the CP) costs just under $2k if you only go rear wheel brakes. I'm going to use the CPs break system and front hubs on the GP and order front breaks, a new master cylinder, and new hubs for front brakes for the CP

What makes it cost so much? Does it have to be built a specific way with specific parts?

TheBeal wrote:

What makes it cost so much? Does it have to be built a specific way with specific parts?

I buy pre built billet aluminum kits from eccarbs. Rear axle is 1 1/4" billet, all hubs (brake, sprocket, and wheel) are billet, clutch and pulleys are, drag link and tie rod are too. Front axle is steel (per the rules) and steering shaft kit is steel too. You gotta realize that when I build I buy ... I buy all new parts. All of the parts. From bearings to race prepped 700 tranny, front and rear axle kits, tranny plate and support weldment, steering shaft kit and drag and tie rods, heim joints, billet aluminum rims, new tires for racing, tranny sprockets and adapters, axle sprocket and brake disk, hydraulic brake system, steering wheel, lock collars (15 of them), dirty harry hand throttle and cable, a $200 AGM battery that could power a 4 door sedan, not to mention the steel to be welded in, the welding consumables .... and I'm not going to touch on man hours. Bawhahahaha!!

There are specific rules when building a prepared chassis. Such as matching tires, what the front axle is made of, both front and rear axles have to be in stock locations on the frame, unaltered wheel base, outside tire to outside tire no more than 40", etc ....

Here's a link to the rulebook if you're interested.

USLMRA 2017 Rules

I dont think Ill be getting into lawnmower racing anytime soon... but its interesting and Ill keep an eye on this build for sure!

Love the vids man! Very informative and easy to follow

Thank you. I didn't have clear cut vids on my first build... And it was a challenge, so I figured I'd make them what I wish I had... Easy to follow along. Lol... Adhering to the rules, and making it structurally safe was the biggest challenge. Next video is welding on the full length steel, a couple of vertical supports, and the steel that sits under the plastic dash. Should be uploaded Friday

Any further updates? Want to see this thing progress  

I have unlocked your thread and moved it to the [ Speed/Race ] section, feel free to keep updating it.