Mr. Modified's SUPER SNAPPER [2017 Build-Off Entry]

I'll have to take a look at the numbers again, no idea. Actually I think this one has the 7hp sticker on it, same block pretty much just the older one. We'll see how things hold up, should be interesting anyway. Maybe I could have a spare drive wheel on hand, if it burns up just bolt another one on. Seems like it's out in the open enough where you could just get it off without unbolting a bunch of stuff. I can have 3 or 4 spares at haspin, stop every few minutes to swap them out.

Swap em out every few minutes eh? Doesnt sound like much fun...
Even with a few spares, a few $20s adds up quick unless they last for a good while...




Perhaps with some potent glue there is a way to reline them?

Silicone window sealant or something similar perhaps? Polyurethane?

briggs has used the same coding system since right after WWII i believe. pre WWII engines are what you have to worry about. but i'd call that engine mid to late 70s. i have a 73 that looks similar to that. its definitely 70s though. Cast iron block, do you know? that was the time that briggs was kinda all over the board with block materials.

Also, i dont know of any window sealers or polyurethane that would hold up to that kind of thing, but my knowlege of that stuff is pretty limited. yeah 20 bucks adds up quicker than you would think. Hope they last longer than 3 or 4 minutes

TheBeal wrote:

Swap em out every few minutes eh? Doesnt sound like much fun...

It's only one big like 15/16 nut and then unbolt the disc from that hub (3 1/2" size nuts), or fight with the 1/2" nuts with the hub still on. Either way its not too hard
Also, mr.moo I'd like to warn you, the chains in these transmissions don't like clutch dumps, the primary chain case only has a #35 chain and mine had another #35 in the dual range box, not sure about yours. It seems if you just have constant pull on them and not jagged they hold up fine

It's an aluminum block. Really though if the wheel doesn't hold up, not a big deal. Probably won't mess with it that much. Shouldn't be dumping the clutch too much I don't think. Just trying to get up one hill in particular...

This hill in the background here is the one we're after. Thinking probably going to need a locked rear.

I did some research on this drive system, turns out the primary chain case rides on a hex tube, which rides on the axle. The end of this hex tube goes into the case, where a chain goes up to the far end (probably #35) with a pair of sprockets on a jackshaft, the other chain/sprocket (on mine it was #50 chain) goes to the differential. The diff is set up like a sears diff, you could flip the gears and lock it or go straight axle with a sprocket on it. I know the I.D. on the bushings on my hex tube is 3/4",so if the axle is the same it should be fine, although you might want to get an axle without a keyway so it doesn't tear the bushings up. Sorry to just pepper ya with info and ideas like this, I'm really exited that somebody is finally doing something serious with a Snapper

So that's what that chain case off to the side is? A differential but chain driven off the axle? Maybe I could just bypass all that and either new axle as you said or maybe I could weld them together somehow. When I finally get it into the shop again I will have a closer look. Thanks for the info.

Any more progress on with this one? Excited to see what you come up with.

Unfortunately not yet, haven't had a chance to work on it. But I did get some parts. Scavenged handlebars with a thumb throttle and a carb off a suzuki LT80. Also found some tubing with some tight bends to use for grab bars, bumpers, or maybe part of the roll cage over the engine. Found an exhaust megaphone too.

Cool! Pity you can't speed up the friction disk drive setup

You can change the sprocket size in the chain case can't you?

MatthewD wrote:

Cool! Pity you can't speed up the friction disk drive setup

Now who said you couldn't speed one up?

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

You can change the sprocket size in the chain case can't you?

Yep. I've mentioned this a few times. Heck, it you wanted a truly insane fast machine you could get a straight axle and do away with the chains in the secondary chain box and mount the hex tube the directly to the axle, and only have the 6:1 (I think) reduction in the primary chain box. I think that would kill the #35 chain in the primary chain box pretty quick tho lol

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

MatthewD wrote:

Cool! Pity you can't speed up the friction disk drive setup

Now who said you couldn't speed one up?

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

You can change the sprocket size in the chain case can't you?

Yep. I've mentioned this a few times. Heck, it you wanted a truly insane fast machine you could get a straight axle and do away with the chains in the secondary chain box and mount the hex tube the directly to the axle, and only have the 6:1 (I think) reduction in the primary chain box. I think that would kill the #35 chain in the primary chain box pretty quick tho lol

LOL sorry man. Didn't read your posts well enough

Started removing a few things. Took the deck off both snappers.


Without the deck, front end flex stops about here...


Stock exhaust system. Had the engine running today for a couple minutes on choke. Needs a carb cleaning or a different carb.


Suzuki Lt 80 2 stroke exhaust. I cut off the muffler section leaving a megaphone with several bends. More cuts, turning, and welding will turn this into a super snapper high performance racing pipe.


Deck removed from the newer snapper also. Here both are tipped up for running gear comparison. Newer snapper has a wider rubber wheel, everything else looks pretty close. As of right now, everything is still up in the air. Transmission, front end, wheels... I have a good idea about what to do with the exhaust. Have a rough idea for foot boards and handlebars. I'd still like to stay with the stock snapper transmission, but I don't feel like taking everything apart to lock the rear. I'm pretty sure a locked rear is pretty much a necessity for any serious off roading.

Looks just like I thought they would. I can see the newer one has the easy start clutch with the 4 bolts. The solid and easy start hub are interchangeable, at least on mine they are, and Snapper pretty much made this whole thing using the same parts as my LT16. Something unusual I'm seeing on your Snappers here is that your brakes aren't there. On most of the pics of these RERs I see there is a 3" or so brake drum on the other side of the primary chain case on the same shaft as the drive disc(as seen in the parts diagram below). On mine the brake drum is mounted on a shaft coming out of the 2 range gear box, I think it's the shaft that in the gear box that drives the diff/axle, I can't exactly remember. Just something to think about, brakes are nice once in a while. Also, what's up with the steel wheel off to the side by the door there?

Cool. Lot a flex on the front end! Any plans for reinforcing the front axle? Looks a little flimsy.

Thanks for the diagram. The brakes on both of these are an internal shoe inside the drum of the rubber drive wheel. Note the cable near the chain case on the newer snapper. The steel wheel is on the cart for the torch. For the front axle, not sure. I will probably beef up the connecting tube, maybe weld it solid.

Two bolts remove remove the seat, gas tank bracket, and the battery tray. Now it's a little easier to work on the engine. I'm considering just using the hydro transaxle leaving the differential open and then making a set of tracks. I don't know if this engine would handle that or not. I also have a Tecumseh 15hp ohv single or a 19.5 opposed.

TRACKS? That would be cool!! Did I read you right? LOL.

Yes TRACKS. It would be like a half track. Maybe if I got enough grip an open rear would work, not sure. I think I would probably use chains to link everything similar to the X1 tracks only on a smaller scale. Maybe have the tracks directly engaged with teeth on a sprocket, or just have the tracks in contact with a rubber tire. We'll see.

It would look good with a big lump of opposed Briggs on there, but also looks neat and nimble with that wee single cyl.

This thing would look awesome as a half track!

mr.modified wrote:

Yes TRACKS. It would be like a half track. Maybe if I got enough grip an open rear would work, not sure. I think I would probably use chains to link everything similar to the X1 tracks only on a smaller scale. Maybe have the tracks directly engaged with teeth on a sprocket, or just have the tracks in contact with a rubber tire. We'll see.

Nice!!! Yah, if you put tracks on it though, you would need to keep the diff open. Otherwise it won't turn.

Here is an idea for you. I came across it doing research on mine.

Thanks people. I'm almost thinking keep the older one semi stock and build it as more of a swap meet cruiser, then use the newer one as the tracked machine with the hydro. I wanted to save the opposed for another future build, but who knows. I'll get some ideas locked down here pretty soon....maybe.

And thanks prancstaman for the video, I saw that awhile back. I wonder how long the chain links last in a higher speed application like that.

Your welcome, also seen this style with plastic cleets too. As for how long before the chain wears out, no clue. But i made mine to be serviced and replacing all the chain for both tracks would be about 50 bucks. I would be happy if the chain lasts a year but i think the chain will last longer though.

Tracks woohoo!

Looking forward to this for sure.