Li'l Red 1

I'm surprised it started...LOL As I mentioned part way through the video I had my fuel shut off turned off. Once the bowl filled back up when I was in the ditch, it ran much better. I put the phone down and tried to tear it up with Kal, but it acted almost like normal dry conditions. Oh well.

@RichieRichOverdrive gave me some ideas by setting his plug gaps down. I pulled mine and rechecked my gaps. They were a bit out of spec. They were well over 0.04". I knocked them down to between 0.029 and 0.030 and Red fired right up. This is my first try to start after last video last night.

wow, that basically started right up!  Do you keep any of your tractors on battery tenders or use fuel stabilizers?

I dunno, may have got luckey. Neither to both... I do rotate the charger around.  It's one of those smart ones that works like a tendor so you don't overcharge.  I tried stabil once and it gummed up the works so no on that.  I don't get or use more fuel than I need.

I'm still going to go through it probably Monday to check the valves and clean the carb.

Yeah I tend to bounce my battery tenders around too.

I'm on the opposite side of the aisle on gas though.  I like to keep my tanks topped off so nothing dries or evaporates away.  I'd been using this fuel treatment for 10 years with good results.  My local Parts Plus recommended it because it's specifically forumlated to treat gas that has ethanol in it.  If I know something is going to sit for a while, I put a cap full in the gas tank and run it for 5 or 10 minutes.

I have the joy of several non-ethanol stations around me.



But I still don't buy more than I can use in a month or two.

Started doing some checking... Compression felt good, so as to not cause a future leak at this time; I decided to for-go checking the valves. I did re-torque the head bolts. There were a few on the loose side. No blow out in those areas so I am hoping no blown head gaskets. I haven't seen any evidence of it. Flywheel has been sanded and magnet cleaned. Next is the carb. I need to pull out the low speed jet and clean it. I am surging a bit at idle. I typically have to clean it 2x a year no matter what. I change the fuel filter at the same time. I have changed out the fuel line this time, so a new filter, new line and new tank hopefully will do the trick.

Should be good after the new fuel delivery componets I would think. What did you find for the valve clearances?

I didn't bust in since compression felt good. I may bust in tonight if I don't have anything planned. Not sure. Part of me says, it's ok. Another part of me says, tear it all down and check every piece. LOL.

MightyRaze wrote:

I didn't bust in since compression felt good.  I may bust in tonight if I don't have anything planned.  Not sure.  Part of me says, it's ok.  Another part of me says, tear it all down and check every piece.  LOL.

me too, but 99% of the time, the laziness wins .......

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

me too, but 99% of the time, the laziness wins .......

Much of the time here as well. I think it is time Li'l Red had some love and was taken care of right. I'll tear it down and check the valve gaps, valve heads and inspect the seats.

Hopefully I get up the gumption and finish that 820 and put in. I will need to make a couple front braces for the trans. Should not be an issue. I think I have the metal to do so.

Video update. Engine is complete. I went ahead and busted into the valve covers and checking gaps.

So it sounds like your biggest issues were the loose pulse line for the fuel pump and the clogged idle circuit in the carb.  It sounded really healthy at the end of the video.

Now I am having starter issues.... if it isn't one thing. It's another.

MightyRaze wrote:

If it isn't one thing.  It's another.

Welcome to the joys of owning a Briggs oppy.

Video update on trying to restart and on the starter...

Sorry I forgot to take pix, but the starter was not in good shape inside. Full of the black dust, the commutator was almost charred black itself! Got that cleaned down. Greased the end of the shaft and put it all back together!

Ouch. That's how the starter was on my 21hp when i got it. Seized and absolutely full of black dust. Cleaned it up and it turned out okay.

Is there a metal starter gear option for oppys? Vanguards and singles sometimes have them. They’re all I’ll run after I stripped out a couple nylon ones

I haven't personally seen one.  I hear there is one, but it has a different tooth pattern I heard.  I'll plead ignorance on this one. Make sure your gear pathway is clean and a strong spring. Also don't hit the starter while the flywheel is in motion and for the most part it should last.

Nice!

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Nice!

It is... for the first time since having the tractor. I can almost just "bump" the starter and it fires up. I should look into a pull start of sorts for the machine.

I plan on adding a pull start for every of my mowers. Maybe the pull start from my MTD flathead fits on my 12HP OHV with the shroud.

LOL,  OK. That explains the starter thread  Great job on the starter rebuild. A starter should be cleaned out about every 5 years. The brush dust just creates mischief inside a starter by shorting it out, and to fix it is to blow it out, sand it down,  and wipe it clean. The painting of the parts inside helps alot and is a trick not too many people know about. You should be able to buy the brushes from an automotive starter rebuilder to keep it going and is cheap compared to a whole starter but usually involves soldering the + brushes in place.

The automotive starter is meant to last about 5 years with constant use (7 or 8 startups a day),and up to 10 years with moderate use (1 to 3 starts a day). Doing this clean out on these starters saves money and will give a boost in reliability. Plus, finding a starter parts supplier for the replacement of the brushes , gear bendix and solenoid on the starter, usually costs around $20 as compared to a starter from a parts store that costs upwards of $90+  You can make a starter push 25 years until a major rebuild is necessary. My Jeep starter is pushing over 20 years on 2 of these rebuilds and is still cranking strong.

Oh definitely!  When these old oppy's start to get hard to start, I throw on a set of jumper cable.  If no change in the spin, my next step is pull that starter and clean it out.  Amazing how much difference it makes!

Compare 1:18 in this video


to 2:26 in the same video. No charging was done between video points!

Yup, and thanks for the shout out too.

Still without charging my battery, I jumped on Red and she fire right up still. I guess my $8 coil is what the Dr. ordered to liven the old oppy back up!