Dynamark rider

Doug Fackler wrote:

Hydraulic brakes?

Yep!

Nice. Are you gonna hook the rotor to the trans rotor or fab it to the axle somehow?

I was thinking the axle...but the trans is a good idea. but we would need to slot the frame for it though, its a pretty big disc

Unless you got a smaller rotor.

i never thought about putting the rotor on the trans. Wouldnt it be better on the axle though?

For a live axle setup a rotor on the axle would be best I would think, but maybe not.

You could probably enter this into the 2017 build off If you waited a while. I'd put the rotor on the axle because if you have it on the trans and the chain breaks you'll have no brakes.

That is very true. I didnt think of that either
so even with all ive done already, i could still enter it in the buildoff next year?
its likely that from now until next spring all ill get done is the rear axle mounted so at least i have a rolling chassey so that if i need to move it out of the way, its at least relatively easy to move. ill probably get that done sometime mid november. After that, my winter project is to not only clean shop, but fire up some engines that have been sitting around, and i will be taking the 14hp Briggs vanguard v twin i got out of an old cub cadet 1440 to a machine shop, where they will bore it, put new sleeves in, condition the crankshaft, and billet rods. Thats the plan anyway. should total me around 400 bucks for all that. This engine is going in a gokart. I like the idea of waiting until the buildoff next year to finish the dynamark

TheGreenHornet wrote:

That is very true. I didnt think of that either
so even with all ive done already, i could still enter it in the buildoff next year?
its likely that from now until next spring all ill get done is the rear axle mounted so at least i have a rolling chassey so that if i need to move it out of the way, its at least relatively easy to move. ill probably get that done sometime mid november. After that, my winter project is to not only clean shop, but fire up some engines that have been sitting around, and i will be taking the 14hp Briggs vanguard v twin i got out of an old cub cadet 1440 to a machine shop, where they will bore it, put new sleeves in, condition the crankshaft, and billet rods. Thats the plan anyway. should total me around 400 bucks for all that. This engine is going in a gokart. I like the idea of waiting until the buildoff next year to finish the dynamark

Possible. Too early to say now, but if you left it as-is till Feb it would probably get in.

Heck yea! so for now, until next year, the dynamark sits as is. id like to enter it in the buildoff. i guess ill have to find some other project in the meantime

You have the King and the 8 horse...you'll be fine. I have a lot of upgrades and repairs to make to the CQ over the winter too...

Lol man you can't run out of projects. There's always something to do.

That is true. I cant have too many at once though. i have a relatively short attention span, so if i start something and dont finish it, i say im gonna finish it, then 3 months later its still laying in pieces lol. One project at a time, finish that, move on to the next. even if there aint anything to build at the time, theres always mods and improvements that can be made to everything. Those never stop

The mower you all see as my avatar is a Dynamark, it is my race mower that is almost done. Dynamarks are pretty cool looking!

Okay guys, this thread has been a little dead (because ive been too busy to pay any attention to the poor dynamark) but i wanted to run an idea by yall that just popped into my head. So here it is.
What if i mount a transaxle on top of the stamped frame (i have an 801 laying around, and CQ has an MST that i could probably buy) and then notch the seat and dash assembly to fit around the axles, adjust the fenders, and run the transaxle like that? The engine would be a 5.5hp honda horizontal shaft, driving a 1:1 right angle gearbox, which would then drive the transaxle. I could do some major pulley reduction and get some good speed. I am going to do a dual tierod setup (from my parts murray) because i will be traveling at higher speeds. Any thoughts on this?

Thing is with the reductions like that, they eat a lot of power. All the belts and gears will take away as much power as driving the thing would. Also the dual tierod thing from murray is complete junk imo but thats just my opinion.

The dual tierod thing may be junk, but, The steering on the murray is tighter than any other mower i have, and it has been well used. if i am going fast, I dont want a single tierod and then one connecting the two. That is a recipie for disaster...right? or is that a better way to go?

That does eat a lot of power, i probably wont reduct it that severely, but it has potential is kinda what i am getting at. 5.5 Hp should be enough. The question right now is, do i use an OHV honda GX160, or a briggs 5hp flathead? the issue with the briggs flathead is that it has the tank down below the carb, and it might be a little difficult to fuel up, but i would have to see how it sits in there. The honda has no fuel tank with it. I think i am leaning towards the Honda.

Hey guys, I know this thread has been dead for a long time, but now that i have a little bit of time on my hands, CQ19 and I have decided to revive it! He and I are gung ho about it right now, and we have developed a plan. hopefully to finalize it over spring break. It currently resides out back behind the shed, and is in the same condition it was when i posted it into the 2017 buildoff, if not a little rustier. Anyway, The plan goes as follows:
mini chinese quad rear axle
The worn out 11hp CQ removed from his craftsman- this is only temporary to mock up the belt routes and linkages. I would like to either do a vee twin, set up twin carbs on an oppy, or an ohv single. im not sure yet.
Right angle gearbox, 1:1. Or, if I come across one for a good price, a 3, 4, or 5 speed gearbox, preferably peerless.
Steering out of the widebody murray i have out back, with handlebars instead of a steering wheel
set up the hydraulic brakes (Rear)
Set up an electrical system- the hood will be bolted solid, because i currently plan to use the stock fuel tank. So electric start will be needed.
any suggestions are appreciated.
just an FYI, if everything goes as planned, I plan on entering this in the buildoff this year

Hey bud, we would have to mount the end of the tierods out farther on the steering gear to get more travel if we wanna use handlebars. The handlebars would be ideal for throttle and brakes, but idk about the steering reduction man. We can tinker with it. But bring the stock steering wheel/shaft for sure just in case.

Sweet deal, I wouldn't mind seeing this thing done. I'd have to vote dual carburetors on an opposed for the engine, because that's just plain cool, hahaha

Yeah problem is though, it won’t fit under the hood without either raising the hood or chopping it. The carbs wouldn’t be too bad, but the ones we have are each from an intek 205 (cc). They’ll be nice and snappy down low, but I think the top end power would be way down. Might have to look for something different. At least with a single we don’t have to chop up that beautiful hood.

This has nothing to do with my bias towards singles, because I totally agree that an oppy would be awesome in this thing. Just difficult...

What about turning the opposed 90*? Like so the cylinders run parallel to the frame. It would bolt up to the original mounting holes that way too.

The factory carb still sits too high. And no I mean I think it’ll hit the top of the hood. The original plan was to run it sideways

Good to see you back Green.... I would vote raise over chop on the hood.

I think i thought about initially raising it, but it needs to go up 3 or 4 inches if memory serves. that would make the nose a little high i think, but thats just me. And the original plan was to run the cylinders in line with the frame. turn it sideways like it would normally sit, and the upper cylinder needs to go down about 4 inches to make the hood sit right, and it protrudes about 4 or 5 inches past the hood. too far, IMO

Hey guys, I think i've made my decision on the engine for the dynamark. I think i am going with an opposed twin. I will keep you updated on how it fits, but for now, the plan is as follows:
Get carbs from at least a 13hp ohv (2) for dual carbs
I will measure the bore to see if it is ovaled. If it is still round, then I will be honing it and putting rings in
Governor delete
Porting (especially on the exhaust, intake will be left alone to better mix the fuel and air)
Eyebrows?
new headgaskets
de grease everything
exhaust will not be a 2 into 1, instead i will run 1" or 1.5" pipe, one for each cylinder, side by side and do a side dump either under or behind the foot board. Y'all picture what i am saying I hope.
I forgot to mention stiffer valve springs and hopefully a cam with a little higher travel. Maybe from a 46 cube?
If anyone has experience with doing something like this, any help or suggestions is appreciated