I tried it once, had an awesome writeup of how to lock these things, and it 'timed out.' great. About an hour of straight typing. GONE. Thanks server!
One note. This requires welding, and your welds need to be hot, clean, and deep. I used a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 on high settings [Wire speed 2-3 / 10, power C [from A-D]]
Okay. So to start, get the trans out, and stripped to the point where you'd be removing the bolts from the case. No brakes, no pulleys, nothing.
Split the case, clean all the parts, take note of how everything came apart so you can put it together in the right stack/order.
Set all the parts in an empty bin and put them aside. You won't wont welding spatter on these so cover em up.
Get the axle on your bench and get an angle grinder.
Grind off the rivets holding the carrier to the ring gear, but don't grind the rivet stubs flush AFTER the halves are separated - these serve as locating dowels on reassembly. Also, make match marks on the halves so they go together EXACTLY as they came apart.
Start by welding the ring gear side bevel to the ring gear - hope that's clear as mud - and weld the nut to the axle [this removes any play - but ruins the axle and prevents removal. Just do it]. Do not weld the backside of the ring gear to the axle shaft - this is a thrust surface.
Remove the spider gear retaining pin by grinding off one side [the peened, rivet-like side] and hammering/pressing out the pin. Throw out the spider gears and pin/washers to leave a bare carrier cup. Welding the axle bushing that is fitted to the bottom of the cup will strengthen it if it's loose, but keep the profile low so the axle protrudes as far as it needs to.
Now weld two bolts to the carrier-cup bevel, and weld those bolts to the cup itself - making sure the axle isn't drawn back by contracting welds. Again, weld the nut to the bevel, and the axle to the nut. Cover the entire threaded end in weld so there is no chance play could develop.
Now you need to assemble the two halves, keeping them as centered and straight as possible. Clean as much welding spatter from the mating surfaces as you can before fitting the parts together. The photos don't show this clearly, but plug weld the rivet stubs back to the carrier flange, and in areas around the flange-to-ring gear surfaces.
Weld the ring gear to the cup from the other side now, going inside the holes in the gear itself.
Check the fully welded axle for straightness. If the axle is bent [ie kinked] but on center, it can be altered. If your centers are off you've effectively ruined the axle. But this method could still help you, if you cut both sides as I'll explain.
Make a grinding disc-wide cut from one spider pin hole to the other, opening a gap in one half of the carrier. This will allow you to open or close the gap, which in turn will alter the axle angles. once it has been set properly, spot weld the gap closed so it doesn't warp out of straight again. This is not an extreme area that needs a ton of penetration or heat, cause the other side is still supporting things. But do the best you can to make it strong.
You're all set. Clean up all spatter on thrust faces, get every loose chunk of weld out of the carrier, clean the parts again, re grease everything, and reassemble.
For break in, go slow for about an hour of continuous driving. When you notice the axle is easier to turn [ie, you can actually push your tractor in 'N'] it should be good to go.
Subject: 
January 19th 2015, 3:20 pm
