14.5 hp opposed twin wont run after first start

I have a old roper with the 14.5hp opposed twin I picked up I cleaned the fuel tank and carb and I can get it to start for a couple seconds then it dies and I cant get it to start again till it sits for a while any suggestions.

Sounds like its flooding and when it sits the fuel evaporates and it will restart. Check to to be sure float,needle and seat are working properly. Does it smell like gas?

Thats what I thought to but ive pulled that carb off 5 times rechecking everything and I dont smell gas and the couple seconds it does run it doesn't seem like it has full power

Its like it gets warm then says im done lol

If it runs long enough to get warm then the coil could be bad. Sometimes when a wore out coil gets warm they will lose spark enough to kill the engine

Hows the compression?
Hows the spark?
Does it run with Choke on, if yes, it don't get enough fuel. If no, check the carb again.

it is your coil. mine had the exact same problem.

how much does a coil run and what should the compression be at I'll try to check that tonight when I get home

Don't guess, test. As soon as it quits, do a spark test. If there's no spark, your coil is shot. It is very common for a coil to refuse to work once it get's hot. Bad winding.

mine had spark, but it wasn't enough.

I'll take a swing at this one...

I'd bet it's the solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl... If those are stuck, the engine will run until the bowl's empty, and then die. Take a screwdriver or something and tap on the side of it several times and then try starting it.

Did Oppys have the fuel solenoid? Thought that was pre-EPA?

I THINK the last of them had the anti-afterfire solenoid, not 100% sure. I myself have not come across one.

There is no solenoid on the carb Ill take a pic for you guys in the morning when i have daylight if that might help

when it doubt, check it out, check you float, I've had them bend enough to flood em out. Also, check your valves by pulling the sump cover if the compression is low. If the valves check out, check your head gasket, generally if its not blowing air out of the side, it is okay, If compression shows up good, check spark (i would actually check this first), you can do this by pulling the spark plug off and grounding the plug on the block and turning it over and watching the plug. Don't be a numb nut and get zapped... An engine needs 3 things to run, fuel (gas/air), compression, and a good spark. Your problem could always be the spark plugs. I've had numerous engines have issues and the problem was the spark plugs...

ive never ever ever seen a oppy with a screw on the bottom because the whole carb pretty much is the bowl to open it there are screws on the top that remove the top plate that allows you to pull the float out

Wow guys work takes alot of time away from me but im trying to go through all my tests you guys have offered but here is the engine info if it helps model#400707 type#0127-01 code#87021912 and does anyone know if this has a low engine oil shutoff that will let it run then not start

I don't think it has a low oil switch, but there's an easy way to rule it out. Locate the wire for the kill switch. Usually yellow, and exits the engine under the flywheel from the coil. Disconnect that wire. Attempt to start engine and/or check for spark.

Ok should it run or have spark with that disconnected

Well I just did a compression test and I guess the left or drivers side has about 30 lbs on the gauge and the other side has 70 lbs and have spark

With the kill wire disconnected, you SHOULD have spark.

And that compression test result is spooky- find out why. That said, it should still run on one cylinder.

I do still have spark with that wire disconnected and I was curious on the heads I took the tins off and tried the bolts and was able to turn them about a quarter turn with out forcing them so I dident strip them and I checked the compression again and the low side went up to 50 and the other side went up to 80 what should it normally be at

Briggs does NOT specify a compression figure, possibly because of compression relief mechanisms, etc. They do spec a comparator on the twins- the low cylinder must not be more than 25% off the value of the high cylinder.

Ok I think were ok on the 25 percent then so I started tinkering a little more and found out the fuel system froze up from sitting out side so but its in my shed now so I need to fix that now it seems like if it aint one thing its a other lol

pour some oil down the cylenders and see how much difference there is then. if that doesn't help, then your valves may have seating problems