TD's John Deere 210 R - "Help I Shrunk my John Deere 210"!

looks good, i wish the frame im workin on was in that good of shape

richie thomas wrote:

looks good, i wish the frame im workin on was in that good of shape

Thanks, Oh and this was pretty rusted. But I cleaned it up when i dissasembled the Craftsman.

Should I bother weld up all the holes? To clean it up?

Thunderdivine wrote:

richie thomas wrote:

looks good, i wish the frame im workin on was in that good of shape

Thanks, Oh and this was pretty rusted. But I cleaned it up when i dissasembled the Craftsman.

Should I bother weld up all the holes? To clean it up?

im doing that on mine, but its cause i plan on putting this in tractor shows, and im wanting more experience in body work so this is like a experimant for me to learn what i can do, and what i need to learn

looks really good, gonna be a heavy lil sum bitch!

richie thomas wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

richie thomas wrote:

looks good, i wish the frame im workin on was in that good of shape

Thanks, Oh and this was pretty rusted. But I cleaned it up when i dissasembled the Craftsman.

Should I bother weld up all the holes? To clean it up?

im doing that on mine, but its cause i plan on putting this in tractor shows, and im wanting more experience in body work so this is like a experimant for me to learn what i can do, and what i need to learn

Sounds good, I might do the same. Then you should get a piece of brass or alloy to clamp behind the hole, that way you'll weld up those holes real easy and without a 1 lb lumb of welding wire on the backside   

Need to get some Countersunk 5/16" bolt for the left side, if the pulley will mount like this.

redzz02 wrote:

looks really good, gonna be a heavy lil sum bitch!

Thanks! Heavy? ya think, hmm well maybe... some but I allready "ordered" the gearbox mount in Alloy 6082 at the cutter at work.
Since I mount it like this, I can use aluminium.  

Your gunna weld the box steel so the 700 plate is flush with the frames motor deck right?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Your gunna weld the box steel so the 700 plate is flush with the frames motor deck right?

Nope, Lowered like you see in the "mockup". Why did I miss something?

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Your gunna weld the box steel so the 700 plate is flush with the frames motor deck right?

Nope, Lowered like you see in the "mockup". Why did I miss something?

Why like that? i guess you could run a belt like that but it being flush would look alot better in my opinion, probally help in clutch making too

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Your gunna weld the box steel so the 700 plate is flush with the frames motor deck right?

Nope, Lowered like you see in the "mockup". Why did I miss something?

Why like that? i guess you could run a belt like that but it being flush would look alot better in my opinion, probally help in clutch making too

I'm trying to keep this small and low to the ground that's why.  And for the Hilliard clutch to track properly on the "V" and not just "/" this was the way to do it. For a perfect Tracking.

Idk tbh, I'm new to belts not connected to a CVT

Here is the rear fender(well one from the web) As you can tell, not much room for a 700 in that square spot.






Here's the seat pan I'm getting,

kinda the same seat as mine, less broken lol. i didnt know you were puting a clutch on it-or i just forgot.

Love your clean builds man

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

Love your clean builds man

thank you Sir!

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

kinda the same seat as mine, less broken lol. i didnt know you were puting a clutch on it-or i just forgot.

Nice, and I yes had the Hillard clutch from before, so I decided, why not try it. It's only rated up to 13hp so we'll see how it handles the 20hp.

Playing around with mock ups, on how to do steering and rear axle mount.

I'd look like a monkey ridin a milk jug on that thing lol

Might as well stich up a seat and put it on the 700   

I was thinking that too red. Stick a 1/2" piece of soft rubber in between the 700 and the pan and go that way.

Doug Fackler wrote:

I was thinking that too red. Stick a 1/2" piece of soft rubber in between the 700 and the pan and go that way.

No no, that's too close to the steering wheel. The ass needs to be on the "hitch" plate or even further behind.

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

I'd look like a monkey ridin a milk jug on that thing lol

So will I lol

Mine hangs off the sides of the frame too and it's probably half the size of the frame

Shoulda banned CAD from the contest. Now we have to rely on your shipping delay or the rest of us are doomed lol.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Mine hangs off the sides of the frame too and it's probably half the size of the frame

Yeah that's just cool looking tho, and so does this, the outline is missing so the exhaust ports + about 4" protruding further out than that whats showing here   

And I might cut 2" in the front, but that would mean I would have to dissasemble either the engine or hood for an airfilter inspection.

Doug Fackler wrote:

Shoulda banned CAD from the contest. Now we have to rely on your shipping delay or the rest of us are doomed lol.

lol no I doub't that   

Need some of you Nor'eastern boys to head out on yer boats and hijack his shipment lol

Only diff in how TD lays his stuff out is a computer draws the stuff on the paper... I sketch... cardboard/posterboard is the BEST way to mock up sheet steel or tinwork. To all you fellers who need to do some fab work in metal, spend a coupla bucks on some posterboard and tape FIRST. It will save you a LOT in the long run.

TD has his drawings and access to a water cutter... He'd be a fool not to use them. Nothing he does though couldn't be done with a torch, some die grinders, and some elbow grease. This contest is all about imagination and fabrication, and THAT TD (and a lot of others here) has in spades.


Milk drinkers