can i swap engines?

ok so my craftsmanl1 1000 2004s engine was heavy beat on from the previous owner and its a goner i was wondering if i could swap engines to a brigs and straton or would the motor mounts be different? any answers?

You shouldn't have any problems. Stay within the same hp range, and watch the shaft dimensions. Everything else is small potatoes.

like doc said, just measure the shaft size, or make sure you get the right size pullys. if the motor mounts are different, you could always fabricate some

thanks guys! so the motor mounts should be the same size probably? and i dont think i will find over 16 hp for to cheap anyway! and its pullyswapped so i hope the next one i get will will have the same boar size so i wont need a new pully!

if you get the same engine the mounts will be the same. even if it has the same block, they should be the same mounts

Check your electrical to and see if they match

All engines ive used shared the same mounts. Kohler, Tecumseh, Briggs, Honda, etc.

like matt said, you may have to work with the electrical. if its the same engine, even similar, it should be "plug and play" more or less. if its a different engine entirely, it may be easier to re wire

If your electrical is not the same just re-wire it but keep it simple the less wires there are the easier it will be

For the most part, mounting consists of a flat plate with a large hole in the middle for the PTO, and four bolt holes spaced accordingly. For the most part, the bolt hole spacing is standard. On the off-chance that new one doesn't match up, it's a pretty simple affair to mark and drill new holes.

The electrical systems boil down to a few basics. There's always a kill wire that comes from the ignition coil. It must be tied into the key switch to shut down the engine. Sometimes, there is an AC (alternating current) power lead coming off the alternator that is intended to run the factory headlights. There is a charge circuit (1 or more wired, depending on configuration) that keeps juice flowing to the battery. Then, of course, there's the starting circuit. The starting circuit is entirely on board the tractor, except the thick, high-current lead that goes to the positive lug on the starter.

If you reach this point and need further assistance, give us details on both the new and old engines, and we can help you piece the electrical together.

Ya I agree with Doc, it should bolt up you may have to do some electrical work but keep us posted