briggs 14.5 ohv carb issues

14.5 ohv briggs im looking for a kit to rebuild it and i end up with several options and im lost its a walbro with the electric soloniod deal the numbers on the motor are 287707 1224-e1 9709032d i know the seat is bad and thats what i want to change but i figured getting the kit for it couldn't hurt anyone know which kit i need thanks

How bad is the seat, really? I find I very RARELY have to change a seat- usually some carb cleaner on a cotton swab does it, and maybe a new needle, too.

it floods the block with fuel ive never changed the seat in one before but ive done some research and found that the seat and needle can cause flooding the needle i have dos not have the soft point its just solid

Well- one thing at a time, simple stuff first. Your carburetor bowl is like a toilet tank. When the level is low, the float drops. This allows the needle to move away from the seat and admit fuel into the bowl. When the level rises sufficiently, the float pushes the needle back to the seat and stops fuel entry. So- what's wrong?

Well- one of several possibilities. Your float may have a crack, hole, or bad solder joint. This could let fuel into the float itself. This would weigh down the float and cause it to malfunction. Inspect the float for visible damage. Hold it to your ear and shake it, listening for liquid inside. You'll also need to check that your float level is set to spec (we can look that up later). If everything else is perfect, but the float height is set wrong, it will still admit too much fuel. The most common malfunction comes down to crap in the carb. Debris, gum, varnish, trash, whatever. It takes only the tiniest speck of crap stuck to the needle or seat to cause flooding even when everything else is perfect. Inspect these parts with a magnifying lens, and clean with a cotton swab and carb cleaner. Get everything clean enough to eat off, and install an inline fuel filter.

Out of the many, MANY carb jobs I have done, I have only NEEDED to replace the seat a couple times, depending on the seat type and what's gone wrong. If you have the rubber O-ring type seat, it's a simple easy job and worth doing. If you have a hard brass seat, try to save it first. It must be drawn out with an extractor, and pressed back in. Not an easy task for a noob.

Hail, fellow carburetor tech dude. Random additions; almost 90% of b&s engines after 1990 have plastic floats in walbro carbs.

Solution for checking float, as Doc said, shake by ear, or set it in a dish of gasoline, weigh it down and leave it there for ten mins. If when you remove the weight (socket?) the float doesnt bob to the surface, its not sealed and should be replaced. Float level on these is kinda fixed, but on some odd california models Ive seen them with metal tabs molded into the all plastic floats. Im sure other places can have metal tab floats.

General rule for setting float height is to make the seam of the float parallel to the bowl mounting surface. The float should look "straight", Im not sure how to explain it perfectly.

Youd probably be better off finding a used carb from a blown up engine.

On the side, hey Doc Sprocket, you ever had to change the BOWL on an '81 briggs model 19 / 8hp vertical? The engine was mint, no rot inside the carb. Bowl...just...rusted a hole..... ?_¿

Not that surprised. I've seen some pretty crazy crap over the years...

thanks for all the replys i understand most of the basics and have fixed and repaired probbaly 20-25 mowers push and riders this year next year hopefully more i can usually figure anything out this just has me stumped

yes its got the plastic float its fine ive soaked the carb and cleaned it 3 times its has to be the float the needle or the seat ive cleaned the older carbs without the electric valve and ive had 2 of these 14.5s and both came in completely filled to the top full of gas the other one had a horrible knock and i parted it out this one ive noticed when i put gas in it i dont ever put much in it like 1-2 inches in the tank it disappears and the oil rises oh and the battery is out of it also i need to look and see if its got the removable plastic seal i cant remember ive done 2-3 carbs this week and havent messed with this one in a bit it went on the back burner

electric shutoff could be bad and not closing letting it flood while its off. i had that issue. i turned around and bought a mechanical shut off on the fuel line for it and a new electric shutoff and changed the float needle and had no issues again

[quote="crazykid1994"]electric shutoff could be bad and not closing letting it flood while its off. i had that issue. i turned around and bought a mechanical shut off on the fuel line for it and a new electric shutoff and changed the float needle and had no issues again[/quote]

ive thought about the fuel manual shutoff the thing is its my kids mower hes 12 trying to make it as easy as possible for him and figure out why it would flood the block for future reference at the same time

crazykid1994 wrote:

electric shutoff could be bad and not closing letting it flood while its off. i had that issue. i turned around and bought a mechanical shut off on the fuel line for it and a new electric shutoff and changed the float needle and had no issues again

The anti-afterfire solenoid has absolutely nothing to do with the float or inlet system. It closes off the main jet in an EPA pollution effort.

if he has the mower turned off and the whatever you called it.... lol... doesnt close off the inlet to the carb it can flood the carb tho? thats all im saying. i use mine mainly as an engine shutoff because my mower engine is rewired and i didnt have a chance to run my safety so i use the thing as a fuel shutoff to kill the mower. anti-afterfire solenoid. thats what its actually called? lol not a fuel shutoff? i was taught wrong....

crazykid1994 wrote:

if he has the mower turned off and the whatever you called it.... lol... doesnt close off the inlet to the carb it can flood the carb tho? thats all im saying. i use mine mainly as an engine shutoff because my mower engine is rewired and i didnt have a chance to run my safety so i use the thing as a fuel shutoff to kill the mower. anti-afterfire solenoid. thats what its actually called? lol not a fuel shutoff? i was taught wrong....

Yes but (here's the but) the problem STILL lies in the float system. The fact that fuel leaks past the anti-afterfire solenoid means that fuel is still being admitted. It shouldn't be. The solenoid almost never forms a perfect seal, because it doesn't have to. It merely blocks the main jet enough to ensure that the engine does not draw in any raw fuel while spinning to a stop after the ignition has been killed. So, yeah- you can but a band-aid on it, but it's really only proper to stitch up the wound, so to speak.

As for the term "anti-afterfire solenoid"- straight outta the Briggs manual...

jack9102 wrote:

On the side, hey Doc Sprocket, you ever had to change the BOWL on an '81 briggs model 19 / 8hp vertical? The engine was mint, no rot inside the carb. Bowl...just...rusted a hole..... ?_¿

Not that surprised. I've seen some pretty crazy crap over the years...

O hey guys I got an idea: find a used carb and MELT DOWN the toast one.

Or keep the mystery carb on the shelf so you can really dig in later. Removing welch plugs, even milling it apart to find the blocked passage. I ended up doing that to a tillotson on a racer that had no mid range power. Just a chunk of rust from the tank blocking a drilled passage at a 90* angle.