MTD off-road romper build.

I found my old truck shocks that could work. Accept, pushing in it's pretty easy. Pulling out it does it very slowly no matter the force. I was thinking about modding the bypass so it stiffer, but I have no clue how to or is grinding/welding shocks back together is safe...

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I have no clue how to or is grinding/welding shocks back together is safe...

there is only one way to find out

Carshowkid wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I have no clue how to or is grinding/welding shocks back together is safe...

there is only one way to find out

No, that's how people get hurt.

Haha Yep.. But sometimes that is the only way lol. Gotta hope you come out ok, and be as careful as possible..

Putting heat to an oil filled shock is dangerous. So you can drill a hole in the body to drain it, then cut it apart revalve it weld it back together and weld a bung and plug on the hole you drilled. Then just fill with actual shock oil.

rarbaugh07 wrote:

Putting heat to an oil filled shock is dangerous. So you can drill a hole in the body to drain it, then cut it apart revalve it weld it back together and weld a bung and plug on the hole you drilled. Then just fill with actual shock oil.

Good idea. I'll see what makes them tick...

I was also thinking about putting mountain bike springs or something small and stiff on the bottom of the shock body. So like a spring bump stop and droop shock for the rear, what do you think?

Ya and maybe some sort of linkages to lock the rear solid for high speed maneuvers.

rarbaugh07 wrote:

Ya and maybe some sort of linkages to lock the rear solid for high speed maneuvers.

Maybe instead of a sway bar do that. I'm not sure, really kinda a see when it happens deal.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I found my old truck shocks that could work.  Accept, pushing in it's pretty easy. Pulling out it does it very slowly no matter the force. I was thinking about modding the bypass so it stiffer, but I have no clue how to or is grinding/welding shocks back together is safe...

Pretty much all shocks I think have more resistance on the rebound than the compression stroke. I think when you hit a bump, the action of the spring compressing uses up a lot of energy, so the shock isn't needed as much. The spring pushing back on the car/lawn tractor needs to be slowed down a lot. I would get em bolted in and try them before you try changing fluid around though, may make them too stiff. Drilling a hole and installing a plug is a neat idea. Then you can use different weight fluids if you do feel like messing around. Try to get an idea of how much fluid comes out, they might not go all the way to the bottom of their stroke if they are overfilled. Some motorcycle front forks recommended 10w motor oil or ATF can be used also.

I'm back, with some steering.

First i took the ariens auger box and made a mount for it. Mount is welded to the axle.


Welded a pitman arm on it, and cut the remaining of the shaft, left room for a bushing to support the bottom of it. Then i grinded a "D" onto the shaft to fit the u joint.



Measured out the steering shaft, cut it and welded some 3/4" on the end, then a splined section from a old steering box to the 3/4", all beveled and but welded.


A old snapper tire donated its center hub with bearings for a 3/4" shaft for the bottom of the steering column, welded to the frame.



Splined end of the steering column passes through the bearing hub (frame too) and connects with a u joint, and that joint is tack welded to a section of the slider shaft. and the rest you can clearly see.


Clears the bottom of the pulley. These pictures are at bottomed out suspension, axle hitting frame.



Now at probably more then full travel.

Guess it won't break now. Looks pretty freaking cool. What kind of ratio are we talking about compared with the stock steering?

mr.modified wrote:

Guess it won't break now. Looks pretty freaking cool. What kind of ratio are we talking about compared with the stock steering?

I'm not sure really. I'll find out the stock gears. I'll make up the tie rod for this, it's adjustable for the holes but I'll find out. Should be 3-3.5 from left to right but that's with the tires at 45 degrees turning. They might point a little more than that.

Excelent work again. I like the recylcling that you are doing. I´ll be back ............. watching this topic

Deluxe66 wrote:

Excelent work again. I like the recylcling that you are doing. I´ll be back ............. watching this topic

Thanks! Yea I'm exited to get this thing driving again.

power steering off of a little subaru or something would be really cool, too!

ZSmachines wrote:

power steering off of a little subaru or something would be really cool, too!

The best steering is always full hydrolic ram. I looked into it but moutning a pump up and custom hydro lines/valves were to much than i wanted. To me this is the next best thing, and probably more reliable.

That is looking really good. I love the ragb mounted that way, zero bump steer and no bad angles off the pitman arm during articulation. Lol and its an intimidating fuax 4wd look. Any bugs you think you'll have to work out during/after first test drive.

rarbaugh07 wrote:

That is looking really good. I love the ragb mounted that way, zero bump steer and no bad angles off the pitman arm during articulation. Lol and its an intimidating fuax 4wd look. Any bugs you think you'll have to work out during/after first test drive.

I really couldn't tell you. something might bug me and ill re-do it. Ill find out.

Got the steering all done. Tie rod all made up using the old heim joints. The old steering ratio was 1.75 turns left to right. the new steering is 2.75 left to right. Feels almost perfect for a trail rig. not quite power steering feel as you think, but turns those big tires on the floor good. almost 1" of play in the steering. Really good in my book for all the things it takes for the motion from the steering wheel to get to move the tires.



Re made the winch linkage to accommodate the box.



Started tacking up a frame for a skid plate. Coming out good. It will also support a bushing at the bottom of the steering box. Looks like it will help out with the small rock its, it will be skinned in sheet metal. Ill probably make the left tube match the right tube.

1" of play? Where's most of that at? Or is it in everything?

mr.modified wrote:

1" of play? Where's most of that at? Or is it in everything?

1" of play in the steering wheel. Like 1"
Of turning if that. And probably the slipping shaft and worm drive

Wow, that is pretty amazing! it'll work good for trail riding! and what is that steering box?

Hell yeah my truck that I drive to work every day has at least that much play.

MOAR. Skid plate finished. mounted the supporting bushing too. Washing machine sheet metal FTW

That's one heavy duty skid plate ya got there!

Lookin beefy like a rock bouncer. Over built for good reason.