MTD off-road romper build.

nice!

1997 Murray wrote:

nice!

Thanks should have chain this weekend and work on belt system. Might be running by weekend

Pretty cool work. I'd recommend at least 1.5, maybe 2, in drum. Find a piece of 2in pipe, and weld washers in the end, then weld to your shaft.

Best place for brake is on pulley input, that is where you would have the most torque advantage. Maybe add a disk to the pulley, and mount a caliper to that.

Stretch44875 wrote:

Pretty cool work.  I'd recommend at least 1.5, maybe 2, in drum.  Find a piece of 2in pipe, and weld washers in the end, then weld to your shaft.

Best place for brake is on pulley input, that is where you would have the most torque advantage.  Maybe add a disk to the pulley, and mount a caliper to that.

I was really hoping for some brake drum and band brakes and just make some pipe off the pulley and bolts for the drum to bolt on. good space for it and i can still take the snap ring off. not sure about the drum, i think ill just run it how it is, bit stronger. Probably getting synthetic line for moto can stop telling me to get some

Bought chain and washers for the jackshaft. Welded everything up. Drilled mounting bolts

looks good red

richie thomas wrote:

looks good red

Thanks richie

Looks good, nice and strong. Did you calculate the gearing yet?

Thunderdivine wrote:

Looks good, nice and strong. Did you calculate the gearing yet?

Yup. Thing is i calculated a 4" pulley to a 7", then 2.5:1 gear ratio, then a 8T to a 36T. Its acually im using 4.5"-7", 2.5:1, then a 8T to a 40T so i hope its in the same ball park (40-30 rpm)

More work done. Cut, stacked and welded another pulley on the bottom of the drive pulley. rigged a temperary belt up. Clutch is going to be difficult due to limited space. Probably going to buy a belt before i mount pulleys.

more progress. Cut out the grill to fit the gearbox!
My grill is pretty ghetto, so to add to it i welded this bar in to keep regitiy. i might have to cut the slot a little more for the shift linkage but i dont really care.


Lights and hood mounted! OlllllO


Little video of sliding in the snowstorm today

wow! so now you just need a cable?

1997 Murray wrote:

wow! so now you just need a cable?

Well, i bought a belt and its a inch short      so i need to return it. i figured out a idler and clutch setuo where i can mount the two together. stab it all together tonight if a get a belt and start on linkages!

So i keep moving on today! exchanged my small belt for a 49" kevlar belt, and started on the clutch and idler pulley. after a little swearing, thinking, sitting, and zoning out (???) i came up with a design!

Axle removed for better accessibility

Welded bolts to 1/8" flatstock

V-belt pulley is the idler, and the plastic one puts pressure on the belt. if the idler wasnt there the clutch would have to move alot more (more clutch throw) and just more of a hassle.

Disengaged

Engaged

Linkage hooked up (very close clearances under the pulley!)

Welded a sleeve and a bolt that goes thru it, snd two small "arms" welded top and bottom with holes for linkages


Linkage cut ang ghetto'd all up, adjustable ends (important)



Just need to make a engaging lever, shifting lever, put trans back together, and some belt guards

Aincha done yet?

LOL

I was wondering, I see guys here weld rods stacked like that... any particular reason you don't butt weld 'em? No criticism intended, I was just wondering... seems like it'd be more difficult adjusting for the "New" line that the stacking makes

butt to butt welding is not as strong. and its a pain to get dead straight

Most of our linkages are overlapped. Cut a longer tie rod, install both halves, and tack it in the middle. Bang, done. No measuring needed. Steering rods are one piece.

Yea stronger, easier. I zip tie them together and when I start welding they melt off, and zing! I'm done.

was just curious. The Blacksmith in me had to ask

made a lever and fabbed up some linkage (THAT SHOULDA BEEN LONGER)


Engaged (locks)

Disengaged



Linkage needs to be longer to achieve more belt tension.

Trans all partswashed clean, much better vs using 5 cans of breakclean and a roll of rags.... lol

The gear that was stripped i grinded down the teeth so in case i accidentally bump into that gear no more shaving will happen.

Greased, sealed, back together.

Original arm just bent up and fits behind the grill.

Cleaned the jackshaft/spool drum up with a flappy disk. Works very good and quick!

Got 4 3/4" washers and two 3 1/2 (couldnt find bigger ones) and welded two so the axle didnt walk around, and the other ones together, then welded to the shaft as the spool drum.


Dimentions are 3/4 inner, 3 1/2 outter, 5" wide. plenty of room for rope.

Made some belt guards...



This side is a stopper so the idler doesnt hit and rub on the frame.

ZING! Take it all off again!

BRIGHT orange, so you dont miss it

looking good, excited to see it in action! do you have a fairlead for it? I have a couple laying around, I would donate one if your interested, you just pay the shipping, should be around 10 or 15 bucks if your interested

Creepycrawler wrote:

looking good, excited to see it in action! do you have a fairlead for it? I have a couple laying around, I would donate one if your interested, you just pay the shipping, should be around 10 or 15 bucks if your interested

No i dont have one, i have been thinking about designing just 5/8 bar in a rectangle as a fairlead, but not sure how well it would work. I might hit you up on that offer.

still no brake what are you gonna use as a brake?

MowBandit wrote:

still no brake what are you gonna use as a brake?

What ever comes my way. Im gunna run no brake and see if i really need one

There will be a test video I'm guessing right? I'm gonna have to make one of these sometime.