Is it possible to do away with the linkage setup on the side of a briggs and run your throttle cable directly to your carb?

just wondering, is it possible to do away with the linkage setup on the side of a briggs and run your throttle cable directly to your carb? besides bypassing the govenor and potentially blowing it up is there any advantages or disadvantages or would it just not work at all?

That's how I have mine set up I bypassed the govoner as long as you don't hold it wide open you ill not blow the motor up it just isn't great for have it full power without the govoner.

Or this happens:



You can make enough power hooking a foot throttle to a governed engine - if not - then get a bigger motor only way a motor should be run w/o a governer is with proper building and billet flywheel .

Or risk having serious injuries for the rest of your life when it blows up.

Like DT says, I wouldnt and dont suggest bypassing a Governor unless you drop some serious cash on performance replacement parts. Cast iron is hard and you dont want it flying out at you.

dangeroustoys56 wrote:

Or this happens:



You can make enough power hooking a foot throttle to a governed engine - if not - then get a bigger motor only way a motor should be run w/o a governer is with proper building and billet flywheel .

Or risk having serious injuries for the rest of your life when it blows up.

Doug Fackler wrote:

Like DT says, I wouldnt and dont suggest bypassing a Governor unless you drop some serious cash on performance replacement parts. Cast iron is hard and you dont want it flying out at you.

Couldn't agree more.

Boy, this thread popped up just in time. My throttle linkage just snapped, so I'll be looking at the direct route, as well as my steering. I have a couple ideas on how it could be done.

I'll stick with what i got and just make a simple foot pedal hooked up the right way lol

I wouldn't want anyone to take any chances on my word, so all the "don't try this at home because I said so" stuff applies.



Now, that said... As I've stated before, I seriously doubt there is much of a risk in grenading your flywheel by JUST bypassing the governor. These flywheels have to be tested for liability purposes far beyond what the engine could do without the governor. If a governor fails and the flywheel explodes, B&S would have a huge lawsuit problem. Unless an engine is modified with stiffer valve springs, the valve float alone should keep the RPMs from reaching speeds necessary to cause catastrophic failure. If your flywheel is damaged, cracked, etc, there is a possibility it could go, but 3800 RPMs is still pretty dangerous if it comes to that. If you are running any of - Stiffer valve springs, balanced assemblies, alcohol, forced induction (turbo/super), etc. etc. etc. then, yes, by all means get a billet flywheel. For myself, ungoverned stock is the way I run and will continue running.

I will happily change my point of view if I can find just one instance of an unmodified (other than governor) engine's flywheel going bang.

I'm with TheRainbowBoxer
I've seen plenty of stock engines come apart... the flywheel is not the weak link.

Those pics were from a highly modifed pulling lawntractor - the guy revved it to over 4000rpm when it shattered - the only thing not upgraded was the flywheel - it took a chunk from the guys leg and stuck into a steel beam in a barn a few hundred feet away .

Flywheels are cast iron - they arent the strongest of materials - the constant high RPM's could cause it to fly apart.

Im just saying the hood and flywheel shroud wont stop the flywheel pieces - thats why racers have to reinforce with steel plate the flywheel shroud.

I agree with internals comming apart before grenading a flywheel, i have a 11HP briggs the PO either over revved or ran low on oil and blew the internal balancer weights right out the back - folded it over clean as can be:


Bet that scared the bejeebus out of 'em when that broke.

Ive heard of counterweights falling off. Wouldnt want that hitting me either.

The bearings in the counter weights can come apart at normal operating speeds. When over-revved, the "dog bone" is usually the first thing to let loose.
dangeroustoys56's last pic is a perfect example of that happening; It (along with the counter weights) usually blow out the lower end of the crankcase.
If the counter balancer actually stays together, the rod is generally the next culprit. However it usually punches a hole in the side of the block.

I would love to see a video of someone spinning a flywheel up to the grenade point in a controlled environment ala myth busters.

TheRainbowBoxer wrote:

I would love to see a video of someone spinning a flywheel up to the grenade point in a controlled environment ala myth busters.

Shhhh... You're giving me ideas.

Good reply Dan(rainbow).

I am with him on this subject. We run all stock engines, no governor, no problems. The engines seem to last for years. 11hp briggs we tried to blow up, held it full throttle in low gear. After 45 min at full throttle, no governor, it quit when all the oil got blown out. It was a smoker before that.

I must have really good luck, because i have 3 lawn mowers with no govorner and never had a problem with any of them. I have a 22hp kholer v-twin, 17hp briggs intek, and a 16.5 kholer horizontal shaft.