Yeah I don't mind it, if it were done properly. It's not staying that colour anyways.
___________________________
Update: While I am waiting on the carb overhaul kit and the piston rings to come (the gasket set has arrived), I have done a little more to my trailer.
But first here is the mini stand I mentioned in my last update. It's Just long enough to keep the tow hitch about 2 inches of the ground.
I went and got some box steel to reinforce the frame of the trailer. I have load tested it at 150kg, so more than enough to carry food, drink, phone, fuel, some spanners and a hammer for when I go on a trip. It's only a light duty trailer.
The floor will be the next this to add to this trailer. The floor will be a single sheet of plywood, 15mm thick (depends on what I can get) or a steel sheet 2mm thick.
Sadly I don't have a tow hitch on my car so I may bribe my dad to hitch my trailer to his car and do a 30mph test run to see if anything fails, if not we're good to go. This should be a very interesting test
I have taken the gearbox off and serviced it, but it took 10 times longer to do it thanks to the pulley which really did not want to come off, I have now got it off. Thanks to TheRainbowBoxer, Hillbilly Homer and AcreFarm for their pulley removal advice.
I may have gone a little overkill with cleaning inside of the casing and the gears but everything looks good.
My main reason for taking the gearbox apart was to check it's condition and re-grease it since I have no idea when it was last checked, if ever. After much help from dangeroustoys56, CityRedneck, Stretch44875 and others, I decided to give Lucas Red and Tacky grease a shot. First impressions are good but I will open the gearbox again after 15 hours use to see how it looks and report back.
This was taken just before adding the last handful of grease and placing on the top casing back on.
The next task is to mount to gearbox back on the tractor and get the measurements for the new belt and new pulleys for both engine and gearbox.
Last edited by mlwinters on November 13th 2012, 6:27 pm; edited 6 times in total
Firstly, I must apologize for the lack of updates lately. Life kinda happened and I've not had much time to work on my tractor.
Hillbilly Homer wrote:
...WOW now that is one clean case...
I know, Took 1.5 hours to clean it with a paint brush and petrol. Does look good though
Update:
I have finally got the gearbox back together and back on the tractor. While I had the gearbox off, I decided (as some will know) to do a pulley swap. I wanted a bit more speed but didn't want to reduce the power to the back wheels too much. I decided to replace the stock 70mm engine pulley with a 75mm steel taper lock and the stock 165mm gearbox pulley with a 118mm taper lock, giving a engine/gearbox ratio of 1.573:1.
Thanks to goesman for advice on taper lock pulleys.
The clutch and it's pulley are still original.
(ignore the strap, its to stop the battery moving about and shorting out on the frame) (the long bolt is for the front gearbox bracket, now reinstalled)
I am currently running the tractor at slow speed and with no load to allow the gearbox to bed in. I have also adjusted the governor to allow the engine to run at 3400rpm rather than 2700rpm like it used to. The engine is rated at 3600rpm but I want to keep it somewhat underrated for longevity of parts.
Now that winter is coming and it's too cold and wet to be able to make much progress. Over the next couple of months, I will be working on all the electronics that I want to fit, e.g. tail lights, brake lights, flashing amber beacon, number plate lights and all the trailer electrics and the connections between the tractor and trailer. I will also be adding something else that I'm hoping will be really cool, but that I shall leave you guys to figure that out with future updates. I may drop hits and clues into updates to see if someone gets it and for fun. I don't want to do too much work to the tractor over the winter as I want to have some fun in any snow we get. Where I live is not known for getting snow often as I'm only 3 miles from the coast and the sea is normally too warm to allow snow to fall. But last 2 years we have had snow and temps down to -20c which smashed local records dating back over 100 years (normal winter temps no lower than -2c). So I'm keeping me fingers crossed for snow.
dangeroustoys56 Veteran Member
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I see one potential issue you might have - the last pic of the trans pulley - it looks like the 1/2 moon key isnt fully set into the groove/pulley - my agway has a similar setup , when i did the pulley swap , my key wasnt fully seated and pulley slipped off and spun.
Im not a fan of those 1/2 moon key setups, its a pain to get the key to sit correctly.
Actually earlier today i had the trans out of the agway to swap the stock pulley back on for mowing ( had too many issues with belt allignment and clutching) - things seemed to seat correctly , because i left the key in the input shaft.
Chopperhed Moderator
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Actually, FYI, They are called Woodruff Keys, and when properly installed they are stronger that square keys. The deep half round slot makes it very hard for them to turn and shear off
I see one potential issue you might have - the last pic of the trans pulley - it looks like the 1/2 moon key isnt fully set into the groove/pulley - my agway has a similar setup , when i did the pulley swap , my key wasnt fully seated and pulley slipped off and spun.
Im not a fan of those 1/2 moon key setups, its a pain to get the key to sit correctly.
Actually earlier today i had the trans out of the agway to swap the stock pulley back on for mowing ( had too many issues with belt allignment and clutching) - things seemed to seat correctly , because i left the key in the input shaft.
Oh, nice spot. I didn't know about that until you said, Ill have to fix that. Thanks for letting me know.
I see one potential issue you might have - the last pic of the trans pulley - it looks like the 1/2 moon key isnt fully set into the groove/pulley - my agway has a similar setup , when i did the pulley swap , my key wasnt fully seated and pulley slipped off and spun.
Im not a fan of those 1/2 moon key setups, its a pain to get the key to sit correctly.
Actually earlier today i had the trans out of the agway to swap the stock pulley back on for mowing ( had too many issues with belt allignment and clutching) - things seemed to seat correctly , because i left the key in the input shaft.
I have moved the pulleys so that they are better aligned with the keyways to fix this issue. Thanks again for spotting this .
Mini Update:
I submitted a plan and parts list for the roll bar to my Dynamark Tractor on Friday 21st.
The order includes the following parts: Roll bar, Roll bar cross member, Roll bar mounting bracket, Body re-enforcement, Diagonal support brackets, Footboard extensions, Footboard supports which doubles as chassis re-enforcement, Chassis stiffening bars.
In total, £120 + TAX of materials and labor.
The roll bar will be used to stop the tractor completely rolling over, to mount lights and beacon on and eventually will form the main support for a roof. The roll bar will be removable at first but removable and collapsible at a later stage.
These parts will be complete by S, J Andrews in Redruth in the beginning of January, I will then be able fit them all to my tractor. Full plans and intentions video to follow soon and a full video and picture blog of the build will be taken and uploaded for you when I get the parts.
Plans and parts list will be released on my Facebook page on Tuesday 25th.
Last edited by CornishMorgan on December 25th 2012, 1:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
TennesseeCowboy Member
Age : 29 Join date : 2012-08-05 Points : 4629 Posts : 124 Location : TEN-A-SAYY
I'm excited to see where the rollbar project goes. Ever think about making a cab for it, instead of just a roof? And btw even though the original red/black is cool, I really dig the JD paint job on your Dynamark! haha
I'm excited to see where the rollbar project goes. Ever think about making a cab for it, instead of just a roof? And btw even though the original red/black is cool, I really dig the JD paint job on your Dynamark! haha
Yeah the roof will be a permanent feature of the roll bar, the cab parts will be attached onto the roof and will be removable. I don't need a cab in the summer and its sunny and 30c but i would need it in the winter when its raining and 0c.
Update: As you may know from my video's, I have now got the roll bar parts detailed in the link in my last update.
I have stripped down my tractor and have sanded 99% of the paint and primer off the chassis pan ready for applying red oxide to the metal and then trim and weld the angle iron sections onto the chassis. In total the sanding took about 12 hours and around 30 A4 size sheet of sand paper. I have also worn down the wire brush to the point that there is only about 4mm of the wires left.
Top surface of chassis pan
Bottom surface
Close up shot of the shiny-ness It still needs a little bit of work but it's almost done.
Check out my youtube page for more info of my progress
dangeroustoys56 Veteran Member
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Know its sort of a pain, if youre going for a custom look , patch all the unecessary holes in the chassis for a clean look - if its going to be offroaded and put under alot of stress - now's the time to reinforce the chassis as well - even just some angle would help.
Know its sort of a pain, if youre going for a custom look , patch all the unecessary holes in the chassis for a clean look - if its going to be offroaded and put under alot of stress - now's the time to reinforce the chassis as well - even just some angle would help.
Im not going to patch up to holes in the chassis, I don't know which holes im going to need and to be fair, I didn't really see the point since you won't be able to see the holes when the tractor is done.
I am putting 30mm X 3mm angle under the chassis to stiffen it up, There will also be 4 cross struts on it as well, Im hoping it will be enough to stop the chassis flexing.
Check out the video below to see how im doing the re-inforcement.
TheRainbowBoxer Moderator
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Wow! At this point you should just consider lacquering it and leaving it shiny! It'll look like the delorean of tracotrs!
I like the idea, but there are too many imperfections for it to look good and i don't want to go to the expense of getting it sandblasted. I am going to coat it with iron oxide paint, sand it down then apply another coat, I will then paint it with normal spray paint. I may then lacquer it.
Sorry I haven't posted an update in here for ages, I've been making videos instead.
Anyway, Since my last update I have removed all the old paint and repainted it with red oxide primer. I then remove the primer from the places that will have welds so I can get the best quality welds for the chassis reinforcement.
I then started on the 30x30 angle iron (steel) reinforcement bars, I began with wire brushing them and then marking out where to cut. I then cut them to the correct shape and size. These where then masked off and coated with red oxide. After allowing them to dry for a couple of days.
This is the reinforcement bars and chassis cut and placed where they are going to go. (taken just before priming)
Next I welded them to the chassis pan. From basic tests while in the shop this process has reduced the chassis flax by around 50%. However I won't be able to know for sure until I complete real world tests. I have never designed it to completely stiffen the chassis up in the first place, just to make it stiffer then what is was as this mower is not a full blow off roader. That is a future project.
This is after the reinforcement bar have been welded to the chassis pan.
A huge thank you to Doug Fackler, jawood1617 and ThunderDivine for responding to my question on my youtube video regarding weather I should start cross members or rebuild the tractor and start the roll bar as the next step.
After their advice, I have now partly rebuilt the tractor and I now have both axles back on as well as the box thing where the seat and dashboard bolts to and the wheel arches back on the tractor. I have got the brakes installed, connected and semi-readjusted.
I have removed some of the paint from around the area where the roll bar will go on wheel arch section and marked out where I'm going to drill new hole in it. I have also started fabricating the stubs which the roll bar will be attached on to. The roll bar itself will slide on over these stubs and be held in place by bolts. The roll bar will be completely detachable simply by removing the bolt and lifting it off the stubs. The will be two multi pin electrical cables that will go up to the lights but that's in a couple of months. Eventually the roll bar will be collapsible as well as removable.
Here's a basic idea of the parts in currently making,
The stubs will be welded to the top mounting plate. The stock wheel arch will then sit between the top and bottom mounting place and the hole thing will be bolted together. Feather reinforcement of this area will happen later on. These mounting brackets will be bolted to the body work and not welded, this will allow me to remove it for later modification.
I am hoping to post a video on Monday of this fabrication work being, I shall leave you guessing as to the bit I'm really look forward to .
Last edited by CornishMorgan on February 17th 2013, 3:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
Doug Site Owner
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2014 Build-Off Entrant
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Age : 29 Join date : 2012-12-24 Points : 7785 Posts : 3047 Location : Lebanon County, PA
I have alot more pictures of the build but this gives you a general idea of all the work I went through..late 70's not exactly sure on the year, sat in a field for 6 years..bought it for 10 bucks off the guy and completely went through it. Keep up the good work! These things have potential!!
mzeng100 Member
Join date : 2013-05-08 Points : 4261 Posts : 25 Location : England
Subject: 
August 13th 2012, 7:45 pm
...WOW now that is one clean case... 
