Atco/Dynamark 11hp Lawn Tractor Project

Hi everyone, I'm Morgan, from Cornwall, UK. I found Fearlessfront's youtube channel and found a link to this forum and thought it would join to share my tractor restoration with you guys. Fearlessfront has already helped me out and I've only had the tractor for a week so I thought I'd post my progress here.

This is my first petrol powered toy but I have lots of work to do to get my tractor up and running.
It's a Atco tractor (model unknown yet) with a 11HP Briggs and Stratton model 25 number 252707.



*Text in green means job completed*

Things to do before I can ride it:

Rewire the tractor as the person who had it before me clearly didn't know what they where doing. (just a temp re-wire until i get it sprayed)
Fit on-off switch to dash and put the headlights on a separate circuit.
Replace the starter motor brush cap. The plastic around the power cable bolt is cracked and lose, the brushes are also worn down to almost nothing.
Take off, strip and clean carburetor.
The spark cable has snapped off where it goes into the ignition coil, so that needs replacing.
Readjust the brake on the gear box, there only half the braking force it should have and so it rolls down hills. I'll check brake pad while I'm working on that.
Fit washers on the gear linkage for the gear stick, it's way too lose.
Try to repair the front right wheel, the rim is badly dented around the rim, the tire does not hold air. At the moment there is a wheelbarrow on it just to push it about.
Lots of bolts need tightening and/or replacing.

I have not tested the starter solenoid, I'll wait until I put the starter back together but that may need replacing. (tested and works fine)





Things I plan to do once I get it started and running:
Open crank case and remove silicon (muppet). Replace all gaskets and give the engine a general overhaul.
Replace fuel lines and filter.
Open gearbox, check condition and re-grease it.
Change pulley size, pulley ratio from engine output to gearbox input will be 1.573/1.
Make a roll bar with support beams.
Extend the foot boards.
Make new a throttle and brake pedals.
Fit a new clutch pedal and mount it on the other side of the tractor.
Make some kind of preset belt tensioner.
Build some kind of double pulley clutch.
Make metal mud gaurds for the front wheels.
Fit rubber mud flaps for the rear wheels.
Make a custom silencer.
Upgrade the steering.
Replace all tires.
Replace battery.
Strip everything down, remove paint, red oxide it, repaint it in a classified color scheme and rebuild it. Repair the seat or replace it.
Install tail lights and reflectors.
Fit battery Isolator.
Make skid plates for pulleys, belt and gearbox.
Finish trailer off that I started but never completed.
Install wiring and lights on to trailer.
Build a grit spreader trailer.

I may:
Lock the differential.
Relocate battery under the bonnet.
Relocate gear shifter.
Lower seat.
Build and install ATV rack.
Replace the engine with a 16-18hp of some kind.
Build a front mounted snow plow.
Fit a larger disc brake.
Get tractor registered and insured for road use.

Is the spark cable braking off the ignition coil common with this type engine?
It doesn't seem to be well designed and seems prone to snapping off.
What are your thoughts on these Briggs and Stratton model 25 engines considering they are 1980's motors?


Have you got any suggestions on how I can repair the damaged wheel?
Both sides of the wheel is like this but the other side isn't as bad.
Would a blow torch and a hammer work?


Any thoughts or answers, please let me know.

I'll keep you guys updated on my progress.

Hey nice start!

The damaged wheel all you need is two hammers.
Remove the tire, place one under the lip on the backside and start taping.

Offroader97 wrote:

Hey nice start!

Thanks

Hillbilly Homer wrote:

The damaged wheel all you need is two hammers.
Remove the tire, place one under the lip on the backside and start taping.

Thanks for the tip, Ill try it over the week end and let you know how I get on.

i have had to do it may times to the big tractor rims.

cool, i am in the UK too and just finished pulley swapping a mower goes about 20 mph now!! i have a spare magnetron if you want me to send it to you?? email me at ..................@gmail.com

ferg wrote:

cool, i am in the UK too and just finished pulley swapping a mower goes about 20 mph now!! i have a spare magnetron if you want me to send it to you?? email me at *removed*

Thanks very much for your offer, I have replied to your question via e-mail.

Thanks Again

I have now completed re-wiring the tractor good enough to last until I strip the whole tractor down to get it sprayed. The starter solenoid is working good and I have got the starter motor back together, It's now mounted back on the engine and I've turned over the engine, the first time since I got it. The engine it self sounds fine...fingers crossed.
Thanks to user 'ferg' for helping to identify the starter solenoid.





Next is to pull the carburetor off, strip it and clean it. I also will get replacement bolts for the gear box as they are all different sizes and don't fit properly.

Over here your tractor is called a Dynamark - i used to have one with a 12HP teccy - thing was mint but i sold it ( regret that) .

Ive seen red and blue ones- never seen a green one ( unless it was painted previously).

dangeroustoys56 wrote:

Over here your tractor is called a Dynamark - i used to have one with a 12HP teccy - thing was mint but i sold it ( regret that) .

Ive seen red and blue ones- never seen a green one ( unless it was painted previously).

It was sprayed the john deere green and yellow by the last owner, it was red before he painted it.

Hows the wheel coming?

Update:
I have removed and cleaned the carburetor and man was it dirty. I have never seen a carb as dirty and gross as this.





I have removed, cleaned and oiled the brake mechanism and I've readjusted it.
The rear axle has been reattached after replacing the bolts.
I have added a washer on the gear shifter to stop it moving about.

This seem better but there is still too much play, I'll have to grind another washer down and try it again.

Hillbilly Homer wrote:

Hows the wheel coming?

That's tomorrows job .

Hillbilly Homer wrote:

Hows the wheel coming?

I've made a start on the wheel, it's a lot better but still needs a bit more metal bashing to get it right.

I have a inner tube on it's way and should be here on Monday so we'll see what happens.

Quick Question,
Can someone give me an idea of what I should inflate my tires to, both for on road and off road? They are at 20psi at the moment, is that OK?
Thanks

Update:

I have fitted the inner tube and put the wheel back on the tractor.



Big thanks to Hillbilly Homer for advice on the repairing the wheel, your suggestion did the trick, Thank You

...Lookin Good...

Just want to say good job on that wheel not to many would take the time to repair one like that. Most I know would have tossed that to the scrap pile and just find another one (although I'm guilty of that every now and then). In my book that's the only way to learn new skills and sharpen up old ones.
Keep up the good work and keep posting the progress.

That is one seriously gunked up carb. Hope you can save it, I'd think about grabbing another one.

muddstir wrote:

Just want to say good job on that wheel not to many would take the time to repair one like that. Most I know would have tossed that to the scrap pile and just find another one (although I'm guilty of that every now and then). In my book that's the only way to learn new skills and sharpen up old ones.
Keep up the good work and keep posting the progress.

Thank you, this project is a huge learning curve for me, the biggest thing I've done before this was ball joints on a car, so yeah the wheel adds to the list of new skills I'll be learning.
I am on a tight budget so I'm trying to repair anything before I replace it.

Stretch44875 wrote:

That is one seriously gunked up carb. Hope you can save it, I'd think about grabbing another one.

Yeah it was bad, i have cleaned it out really well and got all that crap out, all the ports and the jet are now clean so it should be ok.

Update:
Well I have finally got a new ignition coil for my tractor and its now in place.



I have recorded a cold start video that I will edit and upload to youtube soon. I shall embed it here when its online.

There is a couple of things that needs doing before I can take it out for a proper ride.
The carb is set way too rich and I need to replace to gaskets on it because its slowly leaking fuel around the top of the bowl, I made a temporary seal around the bowl plug as that's leaking too.
The belt is a little loose and moves around. I'm guessing it should be tight and not shake about when driving it right???

But at least she's a runner

Sorry for the delay but i have now uploaded a cold start video for you guys, Enjoy



I took it out for a little romp in the local woods to test to engine and gearbox and happily it went well, cant wait until i can go out again this weekend.

I'm looking into how to do somehow copy boggo's idea for a bike brake lever to make the brake and clutch on separate pedals (them being on the same pedal is annoying me).
First I need give the engine and gearbox a full overhaul.

Just a quick update to the progress of the Atco/Dynamark.
I have mainly been getting the carb set right and trying to figure out a few little bugs. I've also did a quick power test pulling my car up a 3% hill. My car is a Renault Clio (about 700kg), the Atco pulled it in first and second but not third or fourth, the belt was slipping. I have not done the test again since readjusting the clutch.


Temporary clutch spring adjustment to find out where I need to drill the new hole. Saves drilling millions of holes



The main frame of my trailer is now done, I need to add some reinforcement bars. I may also get some new wheels for it, they're a bit small. Good enough for now though.

I've added a mini stand to the trailer since taking this pic to stop the tow hitch touching the floor. I've drawn it in with M$ paint but you get the idea. I'll get a pic soon.



I have also removed the tungsten lamps and fitted LED's and all other lights apart from a strobe, that I'm going to put on will be LED. They just make it cheaper to run. (now more so with fuel prices in the UK at $7.80 USD per gallon)

I am not using LED's because they're cool in fact I'm not a huge fan of LED's, they just useful.


I have also got a couple of new toys...or should I say tools.
My uncle give me a 1991 Clarke bench drill for free, though I did kinda slip £30 though his letter box (he has practically given me his 60-140 amp arc welder so...)
The grinder I got new for £30



I will be going for a test romp this weekend to see how it holds up. I'll try to get some video of it for you guys.

Just a quick update, I have ordered a gasket set and carburetor overhaul kit. The gasket set should be here this week but the carburetor overhaul kit is coming from America so will take a week or so.

Ill get some pics and video of the engine overhaul for you

*EDIT* The gasket set has been delivered, I have ordered a piston ring set for the overhaul.

Lookn Good

Wow, that's looks to be almost the same model as the Dynamark in my avatar that i own, even down to the 11 hp briggs. I'm lovin the John Deere paint scheme too. Its looking great so far.

TennesseeCowboy wrote:

I'm lovin the John Deere paint scheme too

Yeah I don't mind it, if it were done properly. It's not staying that colour anyways.

___________________________

Update:
While I am waiting on the carb overhaul kit and the piston rings to come (the gasket set has arrived), I have done a little more to my trailer.

But first here is the mini stand I mentioned in my last update.

It's Just long enough to keep the tow hitch about 2 inches of the ground.

I went and got some box steel to reinforce the frame of the trailer.

I have load tested it at 150kg, so more than enough to carry food, drink, phone, fuel, some spanners and a hammer for when I go on a trip. It's only a light duty trailer.

The floor will be the next this to add to this trailer. The floor will be a single sheet of plywood, 15mm thick (depends on what I can get) or a steel sheet 2mm thick.

Sadly I don't have a tow hitch on my car so I may bribe my dad to hitch my trailer to his car and do a 30mph test run to see if anything fails, if not we're good to go. This should be a very interesting test