So my latest project is converting my Flatbed into a "High Capacity" trailer. I am going to lift the trailer so it has more ground clearance and sits level with Putt-Putt and reenforce the trailer deck and make a stake box for it that is removable so that it is a flatbed and a trailer for loose items. Because my brain is the size of a pea I forgot to take a before pic and I just realized that if it take the pic in portrait mode it doesnt look very good on the forum. My next photos will be landscape. Sorry LOL To lift the trailer I am build a triangle out of scrap angle iron to make the new axle housing. The OG was just some anlge iron with and axle tube but I am going to cut the tub off and weld the tube to the bottom of my new hanger. Then the red chunk of angle iron will be bolted to the trailer near the original spot so the trailer will be pull straight and wont wander. I am going to finish up the welding today and maybe even get the trailer back together. There is some other stuff I am doing to the trailer while I am here like reenforcing the deck as it is only stamped steel so I will prob just bolt some strengthener metal to keep the body from shifting and flexing.
Finished my axle hangers today. I still have to make a support to keep them from folding which I will show you tomorrow or so when I work on it next. Excuse some of my welds. Pretty new to the whole deal of welding.
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@ranch king pro 08 LOL So many people have asked about that! (Not here just in IRL) It's for mouse traps lol not for eating. Thats prob the oldest peanut butter I know of.
@RichieRichOverdrive my big back self keeps a case of Lunch Box Slim Jims they have a plastic layer so if you have greasy hands it doesn't matter and they're small enough that you can hang them out of your mouth like a cigarette and Ponder while you eat hands-free
@Slipperz this is a judgment free zone if you're eating Dusty peanut butter with a torpedo level you can tell me Lol. In all seriousness I honestly thought it was going to be some sort of shop trick, it makes so much more sense that it's for mousetraps
In all seriousness I honestly thought it was going to be some sort of shop trick, it makes so much more sense that it's for mousetraps
Sort of related, crisco makes good lubricant for drilling and tapping. Lard works too but it goes rancid after a while. I have seen milk recommended as lubricant for cutting copper, that was from an extremely old chart. Was probably not the homogenized and pasteurized milk we are used to today though, all the good stuff they cook out these days that made it good for you probably made it good for cutting lubricant as well.
But um yeah… what is this topic anyway….oh yeah a trailer
Well structurally this trailer is done. Still got some things left but the hard stuff is done. First I mounted everything as to see how it sat and any new measurements that were needed. The trailer sits a little higher then I wanted it but nothing that bothers me too much. Here it is on my ATV and Putt-Putt for comparison. The hitch is at nearly the same height as Putt-Putt is and my ATV will pull the trailer also, so its important too. With that out of the way I wanted to add some more braces to keep my new "lift kit" from folding inwards. I went and scoured some scrap rebar that were cutoffs that we didn't get stuck in any concrete slabs, and cut them flush. Then I made a truss like design. As you an see in the middle I cut the OG hanger short and stuck it back in there as a support as it used to be a frame rail. My truss ties it all together so it will come off as one piece instead of 3. Also found a metal bar that already had mounting holes in it so I added that at the back to stop flex. I drilled a hole thru the axle and hanger and put a cotter pin in it to help keep the axle centered and the stop what killed my last trailer I rebuilt. In this thread https://www.atltf.com/t7167p25-1969-sears-suburban-12-putt-putt I rebuilt my firewood trailer as a wheel bearing froze and spun the entire axle in the housing long enough to tear it all apart. The cotter pin should also prevent this. I still got a few things left on this thing. I want to paint it. For paint I want to paint it black but the bed I want to use a spray bedliner. I want to do this to one of my other trailers also. Then I am going to make some sides for this thing. Just the sides and front tho. No back as to keep it all easy to load.
Well I did some off-road testing to see what kind of terrain I could take the trailer in for literally no reason. The trail I ride are very very easy compared to what you guy's do sometimes so I went and found some of the worst stuff I could here. I drove thru a dry creek bed with tree fall all over it and thru the river mud hole and off a steep ledge drop. The trailer did amazing! Never got hung up on the crazy angle or flexed the tongue when articulated or anything! I am very happy with it!
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The ball mount no doubt adds to the flex. I have twisted the 5/8 hitch pin connector on the cheaper NT trailer multiple times. Though on my Vevor trailer, when I flipped the Murray and got hurt, the Vevor tongue did not bend at all and bent the mower plate instead. Though the Vevor connector is about 3/16" metal.
I was building my own 2 wheel trailer when I got hurt and buying one was easier and quicker then making one. So, I went full direct Chinesium on the Vevor site with a purchase of a trailer and crane.
I think I am adding a small roof or canopy on my next trailer. One to keep my tools dry, since so many are battery powered, then as an added benefit for shade. Almost the trees in my backyard close to the house are gone since the blow over, so, I have been really noticing the lack of shade on the 90+ degree days, when I want to sit down to take a break and have a drink.
I was thinking about using non-flat tires on my next cart or wagon, I bought (4) 10" ones with the 5/8" hubs. Thinking about using them for a mobile engine test base.
Looks like you are using the solid rubber 16"s with the 250# rating?
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> a plastic golf cart roof would be a good candidate
Good idea, they usually go for close to free or unsold at auctions.
Jason needs a longer handle on the brake handle or a foot pedal. If he uses a stock car or truck OEM handle, he can get the ratchet action and get the compound leverage by a multi-angle lever. Sort of how the golf carts are set up. Summit sells the New Chevy handle ones for about $120, though you can get the superior Ford Aerostar handles at a junkyard for $10.
My mower deck handle (2 feet?) can lock up the stock Peerless MST-206 disc, but, unfortunately it can only hold so much weight downhill and then the Peerless disc is useless even locked up.
Your flex looks pretty good, I think this weekend I am going to do a 2" ball on the Vevor and (finally) make a custom plate for my current Murray.
@JB_4x4 I love having a 2 in ball on it instead of a pin. Quicker, easier to hook up. You don't lose the pin lol. I got this ball mount and another one from Harbour Freight. I don't remember how much they were but pretty cheap. I converted after one of the trailers I had gotten had one from the factory and I preferred it and I wanted them all to use the same connector. I like the flex especially for a trailer that is not supposed to be my offroad trailer. I got a diff one to do that, but this one does amazing at it. Also I do not know the weight capacity on the wheels/rims but they are 20s according to the side of the tire. They have been on the trailer for a quite a few years so I don't remember. @MightyRaze That vid looks really cool. I will def watch that! I just started painting. Starting on the bottom where looks don't matter as much they just need to cover bare steel. Gives me more practice too. Just going with a high gloss black is all. Nothing fancy. I wanted to do like spray in bed liner for the bed itself, but I could not find any. Well, if I find some later, I can do that part later no biggie.